Two Ford tractor problems

yeld

Member
On my 66 3000 this summer First I put on a new carb. from YT.A zenith.Later I replaced the points with electronic ingnition.Now it runs great for about an hour,then after it warms up when you slow down to turn and try to upon the throttle it will hesitate and die.Only thing I can think of is when it gets warm the adapter plate in the distributer expands and effects the spark advance.Has anyone had this experience?
I bought a 8N this summer and it will run great while driving for while then for no reason die.It's done this several times but if it sits overnite it starts rite up.It has an after market carb. and I took it apart but could not see anything.When it Quits gas runs out of the carb.The carb looks like the Marvel but is probably a chinese knockoff.Does anyone have any thoughts?
 
Are you converted to 12 volts? Do you have a resistor to reduce the voltage to the coil? Without the resistor the coil gets hot and will quit on you.
 
When the tractor quits immediately get out if the seat and check for a bright, bluish white spark that will jump at least 5/16".
If you have good spark then
I would go through your fuel system.
There are 4 (four) filters in that tractor. First is a screen on top of the shutoff valve at the tank. Second is a screen on the top of the fuel pump on the front timing cover. Next is a brass filter in the sediment bowl behind the carb. Last (but not always) is in the brass fitting where the fuel line goes into the carb.
Spend half a day and clean them all. They need it every 30 years or so.
You will likely wreck the gasket on the screen on the top of the pump.
I just toss them and buy a new pump from YT.
 
As far as the Pertronix goes - I assume you have the standard Pertronix and not the Pertronix II or Pertronix III? Big difference. If it is the standard - it goes by coil primary resistance and not "12 volt" or not. There must be at least 3 ohms primary resistance. If the coil has 1.5 ohms on the primary, then there must be a 1.5 ohm or more resistor wired in series with the coil primary. If the coil has 3 ohms on the primary, then no extra resistor needed.

As for the other problem? I just had to fix my Oliver HG crawler that would would run for an hour, then sputter out and die. Then after it cooled for an hour or so, it would do it all over again. In my case, it was a bad coil in the mag.
 
Not necessarily. Some Pertronix kits are 6V.... but in this case it doesn't matter, because 3000's all left the factory as 12V.
 
Just an oddball that happened to happen today. It was an older golf cart but principles are the same. It would get hot, then start surging and sputtering, backfiring through the carb. It wasn't a fuel problem, same symptoms going uphill or down, choke on or off. Noticed a butchered-in voltage regulator so I checked charging--15.6V on a 12V system! On a whim I turned on the headlights and it ran fine. Point is, is it possible your battery is overcharged? That'll drive an electronic ignition batty. Around 14.5 max is normal.
 

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