Buffing Faded Paint

Kerwin

Member
I'd like to clean up an Oliver 1650 that has faded paint on hood/fenders. I've tried some using rubbing compound by hand and it does a decent job. What kind of
buffing wheel can I put in a drill or on an orbital sander to speed up the process (but not cut through the paint)? Thanks in advance for the info.
 
For $25 or less you can find inexpensive buffers that are made for that job. Keep the buffer away from any corners, creases and curved metal. A buffer will not apply a uniform load to those areas and can quickly remove too much of your (50 year old?) paint from any high spots. The high spots are exposed to the most wear, so they already have the thinnest paint before you start any buffing.
 
And use the lightest compound you can find. It is easier to go over it again than it is to paint it. I can't remember if foam or wool pads were supposed to make less heat?
 
Chances are it was painted with a enamel paint without the gloss hardener added (some places sell the gloss hardener as "wet look"). The paint without the hardener added when it is painted the paint doesn't fully dry underneath the very top of paint. Once you buff off that dry part on top of the paint it will fade even quicker because the paint under the very top has never fully cured (it won't hold the shine very long) so you are fighting a battle you can win. Best thing to do is clean the tractor really, go over it with wax, and grease remover, scrape, and sand the paint down, wipe it over with wax, and grease remover again the repaint the tractor with enamel paint with the gloss hardener mixed in the paint before it is sprayed on. The gloss hardener will cure the paint all the way through, the shine will last a whole lot longer, the paint will be also be more resistant to scratching, and chipping plus it can be buffed back to a nice shine years later, and the shine will last a lot longer.
 
Found this out about two weeks ago. Go find a good paint place, car care, restoration work, what ever. There is a product made by 3M and it sure isn't cheap. The stuff is Purple and I think it is called finish restorer. In the $35.oo plus range for a quart squeeze bottle. Can do by hand or buffer. The stuff is FANTASTIC. A guy who does custom car detail work showed me this stuff. He calls it one of their secret weapons.
 
P.S. this is if you still have some good paint to work with. If it is
junk then you will still have junk.
 
I get out the elbow grease and do it all by hand. A tractor has too many sharp things sticking that will tear up a buffing pad. I use the most agressive compound 3m sells. It's tan on color and needs to be skaken up well. It isn't creamy like the other polishes.
It will leave swirls in your car finish but on something like an old tractor the swirls won't show. If this stuff is used with a power buffer it will remove paint real quick so you have to be careful. A good waxing should follow to keep the shine longer.
 
I don't think you will be happy with a buffer on a drill. Harbor Freight sells a 7" auto polisher for I think around 40 bucks. Use a lambswool bonnet and it will do more polishing in a few minutes than you could do all day with a drill.
 
Thanks all for providing comments. Based on the responses, I'm going to keep going with doing things by hand for now, but consider an actual buffer if a machine is needed.
 
I try to keep the original paint on my old stuff too. And its all hand work with Turtle rubbing compound and many rags. I've even used steel wool on rusty areas or where it is down to the undercoat. Not for use on good paint though. If you have decent paint then rubbing compound will bring out a shine. My old Merc sat in the woods for 30 years and I was able to get a pretty fair shine on that paint.
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