Valve core leak

Gordo83 · Jul 29, 2017

I have a slow valve core leak on my Ford 9N. For whatever reason a valve core tool won't even engage the core. I'll assume the core is junk, hence the leak. But I can add air and let air out, so it does work.
Anyhow, here's a picture of what I have. Does this entire valve stem unscrew from the rim? I can see the threads going in to the rim, and it looks like a separate piece that I can go get, which would include a new valve core, and just screw it back in.
Seems like that's just too simple. Am I missing something? Looks like the only way to unscrew it is with a pair of vise-grips. Thought it had a tube? But that can't be right?

grayrider · Jul 29, 2017

You have an inner tube in the wheel, that nut just holds the valve stem in place, is the leak coming out of the valve core stem ? If leak is showing up around the nut then leak is internal and you'll have to have tube patched or replace the tube, if leak is coming from inside the valve stem core you should be able to tighten up the core with valve stem tool

Gordo83 · Jul 29, 2017

The leak is from the valve core in the stem itself. I can not move the valve core with the tool as it is too corroded. No internal leaks.

grayrider · Jul 29, 2017

If you can't tighten or loosen it then looks like time for new tube, might try soaking it with pb blaster or other lubricant first though

old · Jul 29, 2017

Those are a 3 piece unit. You have the core then the core housing which unscrews for the tube. So in theory one can jack it up to take the weight off get the stem up at 12 o-clock and then unscrew the part that the core is in and that you can replace. Keep a number of them on hand as spares for just such a problem. Reason I say get it up at 12 o-clock is because it looks like you may have fluid in the tires

Gordo83 · Jul 29, 2017

I got lucky. When I parked the tractor the valve stem ended up at 12 o'clock. Yes, it's loaded, so my plan was to take some weight off with a jack and unscrew the stem from the part that is (poorly) welded to the rim. So, am I correct to use vice-grips to unscrew that?
First I will try some penetrating oil to see if I can get the core to move. Never ran in to a core that was so corroded I couldn't loosen or tighten it. I'll assume it's the calcium eating away at everything.
Thanks for the help folks.

centash · Jul 29, 2017

I don't think it's welded to the rim. That looks more like rust flaking the metal. You should be able to turn the collar off with a pair of pliers, the valve core housing will come with it. Be careful that you don't tear the threaded part of the tube stem when you try to remove the collar. Ben

old · Jul 29, 2017

NO welds. You as I said have a 3 part stem set up. You have the tube which is part 1. Then you have a core tube which screws into the tube it self so one can add fluid like yours has. And the you have part 3 which is the core it self and over time the CACL rusts things up which you have found and that is where your at now. There is a nut sort of thing that holds the tube up on the rim so where the fluid adapter is installed to put the fluid in the tube does not get sucked back into the rim

jamstra · Jul 30, 2017

Hi there! I agree, that's not a weld, it's rust. To take the gloomy view, and from experience, when you unscrew the knurled nut (with a vise grip or similar - work it back and forward a bit with some penetrating oil and clean the threads on the valve stem) you might find that when the rust flakes off there is not enough sound metal left round the hole to re-fit it! Then you are looking at a rim welding job, or a replacement rim. Damned calcium! You would think that in this day and age there would be a better additive than that, but certainly here in the UK it's still the 'go to' chemical. How do I know? Just had BOTH the rear rims on my MF 135 repaired (they both looked exactly like yours before I started), re-painted, professionally re-fitted and re-loaded (with calcium!!).

Jim

gab · Jul 30, 2017

I can't tell by looking at that but both of my old Farmalls have a screw in piece probably an inch and a quarter long. Farm/ Fleet has new ones, either new or old style depending on the tube, my tractors have new style on one and old on the other. Might take a little patience getting them out or you'll ruin the tube. Got some extras in the shed but ain't going out at one in the morning in my boxers to snap a pict.

Zeke Boniface · Jul 30, 2017

Do a search for "four way valve tool". Your local auto parts store should have one.One of the four "ways" is a long narrow threaded cone that acts as a screw extractor for broken valve cores. After you've broken everything you can of the core trying to get it out, jam the extractor into what's left,turn counterclockwise, and 75% of the time, it will remove the rest. Chase the threads with the tool's thread chaser, and install a new core. You'd think there would be a special core for tires with calcium, but I've never found one. Let me know if you do.

It's probably better to replace the whole valve body if you can remove it from the tube. If you can't, this is worth a try. The four way tool is one of the top ten special tools I use on the farm.

Zeke B.

showcrop · Jul 30, 2017

(quoted from post at 14:15:20 07/29/17) The leak is from the valve core in the stem itself. I can not move the valve core with the tool as it is too corroded. No internal leaks.

Gordo, I would like to know how you can tell that. From what myself and others here who have seen this exact same thing a few times, are telling you, you have a plain old simple leak in the tube of your loaded tire.

Hobo,NC · Jul 30, 2017

Google

TR CH3 valve stem

TR CH1 valve stem

ARE

tractor tube valve stem replacement

This job could end in disaster

,,,,

I have ran across two different types yours looks like a TR CH3 if you are lucky just screw the stem out and screw a new one in.... I don't think you need to fudge with the round nut.

teddy52food · Jul 30, 2017

Take it all apart to fix it right. May need a new stem glued to the old tube.

jamstra · Jul 30, 2017

I have to agree with showcrop. And the calcium has badly corroded your rim, especially round the hole where the valve stem comes through.

Jim

gab · Jul 30, 2017

Probably some thing like this, the one in the package is the old style, other one is new style, says on back of package. think 5 bucks would buy a package. the one is knurled, other has a hex for a wrench.

Gordo83 · Jul 31, 2017

OK, Thanks for all the replies! Here's where I'm at.
3 days in a row I filled the tire with the valve stem at 12:00. I sprayed some soapy water around it and could see the bubbles from the leaky core, and the tire went flat overnight. Yesterday I fired up the tractor and rolled it so the valve stem was at the 6:00 position. I figured I could at least get some penetrating oil in the stem. In theory I was thinking the calcium was going to run out of the stem. It ran very little, maybe a tablespoon full. I sprayed some penetrating oil in the core and was expecting air bubbles like I got at the 12:00 position. Nothing. Soapy water. Nothing. I rode the tractor around the property a little and parked it with the stem at 12:00. This morning the tire showed no loss of air.
Now I'm at a loss to figure out how it fixed itself, other than crap inside the tube plugging the leak. I'll see how it looks tonight when I get home from work.
Thanks again folks.

BarnyardEngineering · Jul 31, 2017

It didn't fix itself. Probably just slowed the leak down.

I know you don't want to but it is probably a good idea to dismount that tire and replace the tube. With that much rust it is likely that the tube is leaking in more places than just the valve stem.

Gordo83 · Jul 31, 2017

Agreed. Just wanted to get more cord wood to the splitter. I'll take it to be repaired come fall. Luckily I have a guy close by who specializes in tractor tires, and other large tires and rims.

Hobo,NC · Jul 31, 2017

A back up plan would be to have a rim and all the hardware sourced before you remove the tire from the rim.... This job can get ugly fast :!:

Valve core leak

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