Skid Steer Under Water, Where Do I Start.

Anyone have any experience working on a machine that has been submerged in water. I just got a 2016 New Holland track loader that was submerged for an unknown time but not more than a few hours. I have been gathering information to determine how bad things might be. Of course we need to start tearing it down to determine the extent of the damage. We will pull connectors apart to look for moisture or corrosion. We will drain and replace fluids and filters then try tuning the motor over with a wrench. I will probably put a battery in it, turn on the ignition on and see if anything lights up or heats up. A hot joint might indicate that wiring needs to be replaced. If the motor can't be turned over, probably remove injectors and try again. Once all water is out of the engine, try turning it with the starter. If it turns over without any noticeable problems, try starting it. If there was water in the cylinders, it probably requires a tear down to determine the extent of the damage even if it runs. I would love to hear your experiences and suggestions.
 
If a few hours as less than 24 hours there won't be much of any damage. Drain fluids and let all electricals dry for several weeks. Most of the electrical equipment is designed to be moisture resistant so a little time to dry out is in order. Starter motor will be fine. Alternator OK. Likely no water in more than two cylinders, if any at all. Unless it was running when submerged. I'd pull the injectors and spin the engine with clean oil in it. No way for water to get into the hydraulic system other than the tank so pumps and valves should be fine.
 
Galen. I am going to tell you what you do not want to hear.. Sell the thing. I have been involved in more than I care to remember and the gremlins of the wiring/dash/controllers will drive you crazy. Some one posted that they are made for moisture, may be but all the ones I have been involved (repair for insurance claims after going under water) were just night mares. Think you will end up spending more than you realize that is for sure.
 
Thanks for your input. If there are gremlins, I will part it out. I can spend a considerable amount of money on it so a new motor and all new wiring is not out of the question if necessary.
 
I agree with you on the hydraulics. It was probably running when submerged so might have a bent rod. Was in water much less than 24 hours. I will try to pin down how long. I think all tracks and drive system should be fine regardless. All hydraulics should be fine but tank should be drained before attempting to run. It has been setting for about 5 months since being submerged. Another factor is that it was submerged in an abandoned manure pit so there was some amount of manure present but mostly water.
 
That is one of those that could be an easy fix or a night mare. I have an 8N ford that was under water and after the water went down I pulled the drain plugs and let it sit for a long time that way. I then filed up every thing cleaned the points and carb and put a battery in and fire it up and it has been ok other then a bearing in the transmission that seems to have locked up
 
Big dairy lost a almost new Bobcat. Found it in the manure pit when emptying the pit next spring. South of the border help let it roll in the pit....completely ruined the machine.
 
Hi After reading the whole story you posted about it being only in the wet for a few hours but that was 5 months ago and it was slurry lagoon type stuff. If you get lucky with how little's wrong and the cost of fixing it's real cheap, go buy a $1000 of lottery tickets as guys say sometimes in these situations.

From what I see with the corrosion on electrical component terminals on farm tractors that haven't been swimming in corrosive environments it's interesting sometimes. Plus any components that are internal that got contaminated could be starting to rust as well or cause problems later.

My guess is it's an insurance buy back if you got it cheap, They wrote it off for a good reason. They don't usually dump stuff that's an easy fix or will be ok after the repairs. It may be a health issue with comtamination from the swim to lots of cars from floods are scrapped because of sewage issues.

If it's not a buy back I think somebody knows why they didn't want to keep it and fix it. That 2016 machines got to be worth a lot of money on todays market with nothing wrong. even if you get it going now there could be long term problems I wouldn't want to sell it on or own it now really, it just says run away or scrap to me.
Regards Robert
 
I just thought about something else, if that machine is that new what are some of the things like joysticks going to cost that could be messed up, and can you just change the components and it works. I know back in 2002 when I was working at a dealers some New Holland SP forage harvester joysticks had to be computer programmed to the machine. A guy on youtube I sub to's JD skid steer got hit by lightening, those new controls had to be programmed by the dealer. It was real expensive to do it as well, as you got to pay them what they want for doing it to work or own an expensive lawn ornament.

Regards Robert
 
Been may experience with a machine and a lot of water is that once its out of the water the work on it needs to start immediately as in that very hour.The longer it sits the more rust and damage
will be found.Five months is a long time.
 
Thanks for the thought about programing. I will check that out. That is the information I am looking for not run away it's junk. My main concern is the joysticks. Some people on here forget how skid steers are used. Many are on dairy farms where they are half buried in manure their whole lives. I wash mine with a high pressure washer all the time so all connections are wet frequently, granted not immersed. Look at how they are used in construction sites, mud, rain, and dust. The New Holland dealer said that all the connections are sealed, it's not like the old days. My Gehl 7810 was from a dairy farm when I bought it and one belly plate was missing. The dirt and other materials were so deep in the belly that they were over the starter. I have owned it for several years without a single issue. The traces of manure on this machine are very minor and would have dried out very quickly. It has not been washed and looks pretty much like any other machine that has been used and not washed. The owner is no longer with us so he couldn't buy it back. If a dealer bid it for the insurance company with labor at $100 per hour, possible new engine, everything that could possibly go wrong the insurance company will not take the risk of fixing it. I am willing to spend what it takes and will make sure it is done right. If the joints are sealed as well as the dealer says nothing should have gotten into them. If it has, I can buy new wiring. Switches may be another story but they are all available new. People put this together new about a year ago, it can be put together again, parts can be replace as needed.
 
Well i can see a total tear down in your future , IMHO the only things that i would not take apart down to bare housings would be the hyd. cylinder , Yep that means Every thing else and when done making all sorts of parts piles and bare castings and housings then ya can start the cleaning and checking and putting the pieces and parts back together. Years back a new hire was sent out to a oil well drilling location with a new John Deere 750 dozer with 72 working hours on it to reclaim the location and i asked him if he knew how to SQUEEZE the pits as there were two working pits and one BIG blow pit and i got oh yea i know how to SQUEEZE PITS . Well the lowboy driver calls on the radio and tells me that he had dropped that 750 off at the location and was head on to the next move and it was not fifteen min. later when this new operator calls on the radio and say he is STUCK , not something that was not uncommon in the patch to stick a dozer, So that means i am going to have to hook up to the extra lowboy and load another dozer and drive the 30 miles to that location and drag him out . When i got there and drove back to the location first i could not find the dozer or the operator ( he went for coffee and left the location) and i get looking around for the dozer on a FLAT 250 x350 foot location , other then the dike of the blow pit That dike was maybe four foot tall and i drove over to the pit and setting in the middle of this PIT was the top of the ROPS and the top pipe off the muffler sticking up out of the water , Air intake is under water . With great effort and a second dozer we got it out and up on the lowboy and back to the shop and when done tearing it down only the frame work was in one big chunk .
 
I bought a 98 Chevy 4x4 that had spent the night completely under water from an in insurance company.

Transmission and t-case did not have any water in them at all.
I put the transmission into another truck 4 years ago and it is still working fine.

Engine had a gallon of water in the bottom of the pan.
Drained it and changed it and it fired right up.
Drove it around as a yard truck for a week before I started to part it out.
Computer and electronics were fine, even the radio and CD player still worked.
Think of how much moisture from frost, rain, snow and dew a machine is exposed to and still able to work fine.

Sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you do not, personally I would cross my fingers and hope for the best.
 
Thanks but you have way overstated the issues. How on earth would water get in any of the hydraulics other than the tank. If it can then all equipment that ever gets wet is doomed to fail very soon. If I were you I wouldn't take my car through the car wash, goodness knows what could go wrong if things got wet and weren't dried off immediately. What if you drive in the rain for three or four hours. Do you trade it off or tear it down. I know I am being silly and I know it isn't the same but neither is a 50 year old JD and a 2016 track loader. A fiend of mine put a excavator in the water and all it needed was a head gasket. I know I won't be that lucky but I also know it isn't as bad as you are saying.
 
I agree. When I was in the boat and outboard motor repair business, a rule of thumb on an outboard that had been sunk was if it was sunk in salt water, you had four hours from the time it was pulled out of the water to get it torn down, cleaned up, reassembled, and running again. Fresh water more like 24 hours.

It's amazing how fast cylinder walls will begin to rust.
 
Well... if heartache is your thing, I think you found your Zenith...

All I can think of is an engine full of soup, probably a ruined emission system... electrics will be junk... hydraulics will probably be salvagable. Reduction cases will require a thorough cleaning. I guess if it owes you nothing and you have time on your hands, it will be a project. A project that will cost you a lot of time and money and probably never be 'right'.

Rod
 
Sorry but I don't need another totally negative opinion with no basis in fact whatsoever. I wouldn't have posted the question if I thought so many negative Nellies would respond with no information related to the question. I understood the risks when I bought it. I am a big boy and have my big boy pants on. I will stick with information from the dealer and others who have had a similar machine. It isn't a car with open wiring and plugs. It's not a 50 year old tractor. These are built to be used in very harsh environments. The computer may be bad but it is sealed and may be just fine. If not, I can buy a new one. Do you guys understand? They sell new computers and wiring at the dealer. You don't have to buy a new machine to get new parts. These machines are built by human beings in factories from individual components. You can buy the individual components as needed and the machine will be like new. Now, everyone please respond and say once again that it will never be any good even if you replace every part. I also need a couple more people to tell me that it will be expensive, I guess I must not have known that. Please, give me a break. Sorry if this seems like a rant, I was just looking for some of the excellent expert information I see on this site not opinions.
 
Other than possible engine damage, I think you'll be ok. I've revived a few "swimmers" in the past. Most everything on modern equipment is sealed very well & made to get wet. Check the engine out like you planned on, change oils & filters, give it a try. Keep an eye out for mold. I got very sick fixing one that had mold. Wear gloves and a mask.
 
A fellow logger UP here bought a piece of logging equipment $$$$$$ (Makes your skid steer seem very cheap) that had been underwater/mud for a few hours. He got it dirt cheap and his intentions were to fix it up and use it. Like your machine all the wiring is "sealed" and the computers are "sealed" and the hydraulics are "sealed" because after all its made for use in harsh environments. What they really mean by sealed is they are sealed against splashing and dust and such not really sealed in the sense of scuba diving. Notice the computers and such aren't mounted out in the elements.

Anyways after getting into this machine and finding that the hydraulic pump[b:5a13aba7c6]s[/b:5a13aba7c6] (one cost more than your skid steer was new) had started to surface rust inside and "sealed" electronics had started to corrode he decided to can the project because all those "new" parts that would fix all the problems would have cost more than a comparable running driving machine would have.

If you've budgeted for a new motor, all new electronics, and hydraulic components and it still works out to be a good deal then go for it, then if any of those parts are salvageable then your even more money ahead. If you haven't budgeted for those parts and you get halfway into it and find more wrong then your stuck spending more money than its worth to fix it or eat the labor and parts you've already put into it.
 
Thank you very much for your feedback. I too know of several swimmers as you call them and the worst I have heard is a bent rod from water in a piston and problems with a electric over hydraulic valve a year after the swim. Thanks for the mold advice. This is the feedback I have been looking for.
 
A new, not rebuilt, crate motor with starter, alternator, turbo complete ready to bolt in is $10,000 retail. I don't have a problem with that at all if needed. If I had to spend another $10,000 on wiring and electronics, I don't have a problem with that. I will be careful to make sure it isn't more than that but even if it was I would still be in good shape. I am asking the questions to see if there is something else to check and the feedback on programing the controls is a good one I didn't think about. It is very easy to check out with the dealer. Changing the oil in the final drives is recommended at every oil change so that is a no brainer.
 
i lost a Massey Ferguson 300 crawler in the river years ago only thing showing was exhaust pipe was in for 24 hr. pulled her out changed oil check out other oils and started it right up ran for 20 more years shut it down before it went under
 
What does 10K worth of electronics buy you? If you need wiring harnesses, ecm's, joysticks, sensors, etc that 10K could be gone in just a blink and only replace a couple of components....
 
There is a LOT of difference between getting WET and going scuba diving and being a Submarine for several hours and sucking water in a engine running wide open and before the water got to the engine thru the air cleaner the Hyd Oil tanks and the Hydrostat tanks were under water and OH they have vent holes , then ya have the fact that oil floats on top of water and the tanks are up and the pumps and motors are down . . Then ya add in the fact that he was in the blow pit with all the drilling cuttings then the blow off fluid from the frac plus the acid they dump down the pipe after the frac that eats away at the perforation . Pit water at a drilling sight is not what ya want to go swimming in .
 
I give up. I will never bring anything up like this again on this forum. I thought I could ask a simple question and get some helpful replies. I never in a million years expected to get so many negative, uninformed, ridiculous replies. So, a couple of components will cost $10,000. Thanks for the information.
 
Has the thought ever occurred to you that perhaps the 'negative' opinions, are informed.... by experience, and perhaps we would offer you free advice that we've already learned the hard way?

Rod
 
Have bought and repaired many different levels of "wrecked" equipment. Have you sat down and priced all the different components that could be bad? You laugh at my 10K remark but these days 10k worth of parts can fit in a small brown paper lunch bag (I speak from experience).

Was at my NH dealer just last week and spent close to 1k bucks and it fix in a shoe box. Guy next to me was buying some electrical components for his tractor and writing a check for 8k and some change and from the size of the bag (plastic grocery bag) I can tell you he wasn't getting new ECM's, Joysticks, Wiring harnesses, sensors, etc.

But since you know everything and think we are all idiots then I'm not even sure why you asked on here.
 
Sure you may not need 10k worth of anything. But when trying to decide if its worth fixing up a salvage piece you have to assume that you will need EVERYTHING new. That way if the worst case scenario happens you still aren't in it too deep. If you get lucky and don't need anything then its your lucky day.
 
to be honest I think you got a plan you wanted to hear and guys that have done this are telling you the truth of surprises you could find. That guy with the lightning strike skid steer burnt a Deere tractor. I've done burnt tractors, that looked better than his on insurance for a few guys. I commented what a pain and fortune it was going to be From my experience. Yep the usual BS like Lanse says that post here, on his tube Chanel "armchair expert" go away!

yeah forward many months/ hours and much money later. The guy comments on what he did and says I'd never do another one Well i told you that!. John Deere got very rich off this tractor with the list of stuff he couldn't get from wreckers.

I hope you got an honest dealer and not just a guy rubbing his hands together thinking of the $ you could spend with him.

When I worked in dealers sometimes the parts guy would ask the sales the price on a new tractor. The reply from the parts guy was why sell it whole if we could sell all the parts individually you'd make more money. why do you think there are newer used combines being wrecked and not fixed sometimes.
If you do it and get it going please keep us informed I'd really like to see pictures and what it did need and cost.
Robert
 
Thanks. That is exactly what I am trying to do within reason. I have printed out the major electrical components and part numbers and am getting prices. I talked to a friend in the know this weekend. He has first hand knowledge of a late model JD compact tractor that was under water for 10 hours. Changed the oil and started it up. Never any problems. Also the local Bobcat dealer had a rental skid steer under water for several hours. Changed the oil, started it up and never any problems since. I want to make sure that I am well informed about actual potential problems before I start spending money. I am not going to worry about things that have no chance of being damaged. As I stated I have a new engine in the budget just in case. Thanks for the well meaning comments. I pick it up tomorrow and should know more shortly.
 
It was in a fresh water abandoned and pumped manure pit. Now they say it was really a gravel pit. Clean fresh water. Thanks for the well meaning thoughts though.
 
Sorry for the tone. You have to remember that this is a $45,000 skid steer and not a $500.00 tractor or combine with auto steer automatic throttle and ground speed control and all the electronics modern equipment contains. Yes there sure can be headaches and they are of concern but I am taking a calculated risk. I also have been working on and with equipment my whole life, 67 years. I am a retired engineer who worked developing products and processes for the computer industry and medical industries. Not bragging, just saying I have been around the block a few times and machine costs are not a new thing to me. Thanks for the help.
 
Galen
I copied and pasted this from a post on Heavyequipmentforums.
Australia 2011 they had bad flooding and a large amount of heavy equipment spent time under water.

The recent flood event in Australia has left us with a maintenance and reliability problem that needs immediate action. Time is paramount if you want your flooded equipment back to work.
Here are some steps you should take.

1 Under no circumstances start the machine until a proper assessment has been done

2 Establish the exact level the flood water reached on your machine and mark the paint work accordingly. Take note if the machine is sitting at an angle Keep photos taken during the flood event

3 If possible remove drive shafts and tow unit to a wash down pad. Remove all covers and flush thoroughly

4 Disconnect batteries

5 Remove cab floor mats and seats and dry out cab if water reached this level

6 Grease everything to flush out water

7 Now is the time to list what components have been affected and what procedures are needed to recover them.

I will break this down into different levels and it will depend on the machine you have and the type of breathers and systems in your machine

Differentials and undercarriage only flooding

1 You will have to establish the level of the water within each diff taking into account the aspect the unit was sitting at during the flood. This will determine whether you just drain and flush or dismantle. Also you will need to establish if mud has entered This will depend on the type of breather system

2 You will need to clean inside the brake assy's and remove any mud and debris and moisture

3 You will need to check all grease and oil cavities around the articulation ,interlocks ,steering and make a determination accordingly

4 All lower frame electrics should be cleaned and dried

Mid level flooding

1 You will have to establish the water level within each component and system and make a determination as to how to proceed from there. Depending on your breather and dipstick type, this will determine if you have water or mud contamination.

2 The engine computer may have been immersed at this point and so should be removed and dried out and checked.

3 If water has entered the engine oil, this should be drained and flushed.


4 The transmission water inundation level should be established and if it is below the clutch packs, you can just drain and flush.

5 If water has entered the brake tank, the brake system will need to be fully flushed.

6 The coolant system should be checked for water inundation and if water found it should be drained and flushed.

7 All machine electrics to the flood level should be cleaned and dried.

HIGH LEVEL FLOODING

The Engine

The air intake piping will need to be removed and cleaned.
The turbo charger will need to removed and overhauled
The inter cooler will need to be cleaned
The injectors will need to be removed and the cylinders will need to have the water removed and the cylinder liners oiled
The rocker covers need to be removed and breathers cleaned. Rocker gear needs to be cleaned
The exhaust system will need to be drained of water
The alternator and starter motor will need to be removed and cleaned
The oil system will need to be cleaned and flushed

The Transmission

Mud contamination, and the level of the water inside your transmission will determine how to proceed. Besides the engine this is the most critical and expensive component. Clutch port reverse flushing can remove most of the contaminates from the clutch pack hydraulic systems. Combined with filter and screen cleaning and oil replacement, careful start-up procedure can save expensive removal and dismantling.

The Hydraulics

The tank will need to be drained and cleaned and the piping to the pump inlets removed and cleaned. Lower lines below pump level may have to be flushed

Fuel system
The fuel tank should be drained and refilled and fuel filters replaced ensuring fuel lines to the filter are cleaned out

Electrical systems

Many pieces of electrical or electronic equipment can be repaired after being immersed in flood waters. The basic work is not difficult, although there will be components within the equipment which may not be repairable except by experts, due to contamination by chemicals, pollutants, or particulate matter
Connector problems
These may be present from the moment the equipment is re-assembled or they may not show up until later. But in any event they may often be of an intermittent nature and thus difficult to trace.

Metal components including electronic chassis and cases
Here the enemy is corrosion and exposure to air of water-soaked equipment can increase this problem. Often a consideration as to the repair-ability is the ease with which the electronics can be removed from their enclosures. Where equipment housings contain accumulated silt, the use of warm water and detergent might be needed to free-up the electronic components. Remember though that the detergent will also remove any oily film from the metal parts which could be protecting them again rusting. Therefore, it may be necessary to spray the metal parts, housings, cases etc. with a good water-displacing penetrating oil to protect them while the electronic components are being treated.
Most of the problems will be related to either immediate or delayed-action connector malfunctions, especially with equipment that relies on computer-control modules connected, as they are, with numerous sensors. On the assumption that any small sensor ports (to intake vacuum and the like) are free of obstructions, that the wiring harness itself is reasonably dry and that the engine, transmission, differential(s), steering gear, brakes and wheel bearings are free of contamination and properly lubricated, and that any control modules have not been damaged physically, a systematic cleaning and treatment of the electrical and electronic connectors may have to be done before problems can be considered to be the fault of the control modules themselves.
In addition to the sensors, all electrical contacts on the wiring harness should be treated. Everything from head-light connectors, fuse holders, dashboard connectors (such as for dashboard lights, gauges, etc.) to turn-signal switches. (Remember switches can be subject to corrosion too). Screw terminals too should be treated
CAUTION-SEWAGE CONTAMINATION!
Quite frequently equipment that has been submerged in flood waters will have become contaminated with faecal or other harmful bacteria. A precautionary rinsing with isopropyl alcohol will generally disinfect circuit boards from electronic equipment without damaging components although semi-sealed items such as potentiometers may have to be replaced. Isopropyl alcohol can also be used on metal parts and cases, although with some finishes and paints a test should be made to make sure that the alcohol won't damage the finish, In some instances, one of the home disinfectant sprays may be used on the metal parts, but again, test for possible damage to finished surfaces.
For the same reasons, precautions should be taken when handling such equipment to avoid infection! And all such infections should be taken seriously as tetanus shots might be required!


General Maintenance
After start up and run-up operation tests are completed another round of filter and oil changes is called for to get out any residue water and dirt contamination



Recovery of Flooded Heavy Equipment Part 2 by Mechtronik

After the recent flood events in Australia Mechtronik technicians have been working flat out getting a wide variety of heavy equipment up and running again. Using the methods as described in the first blog on this subject We have had a 100 % success rate. It has been 3 weeks now and the damage is accelerating rapidly from corrosion. We have seen some classic mistakes in the recovery process by others who will remain nameless. One instance was days spent removing the injectors and water from the cylinders but forgetting to remove the water from the after cooler which caused cylinder lock-up when the unit was started. Result engine out. Also cranking the engine for long periods to remove the water thereby damaging the bore. Result engine out


The electrical system is copping it the worst. Depending on the design of the electrical system some systems faired better than others.

If the batteries were left hooked up any wiring that has a constant feed will have succumb to electrolysis by now as the system dries out. This can be seen clearly as a green powder around any positive wire.

The only fix for this is to remove the loom completely and lay it out and clean every plug – connection – switch etc. and and replace any damaged wiring Even circuits that are not constantly fed from the battery have suffered damage due to tracking across wet connections.

Localised fires have started in control units with the battery hooked up as the machine dries out.
Some ECU's have suffered electrolysis of internal components and wiring connections. Dashboards tend to retain mud and starter motors are seizing by now.


The engines have faired much better but in the weeks to come if you don't get them turned soon they will seize As the surface rust increases in the bores it is imperative that the engines are rotated only a couple of times to squeeze out the water to prevent lock-up,then started a bit wet to prevent bore damage. Depending on the design of the exhaust manifold you need to ensure that the water squeezed out does not run into the next open cylinder. Loosening the bolts on the manifold can let this excess water out. After your engine has reached operating temperature replace your oil and filter again as any water trapped inside the engine will have mixed with your oil
 

Being under water doesn't bother me much, setting for 5 months is a bit of concern, I've got a 06 ASV PosiTrack, the electronic pilot control is under the floor board and I don't know how many times it's been submerged in water and hydraulic oil over the years from the belly pans getting full.
The amount of electronics and emissions equipment on newer machines can really jack up repair costs if they are damaged, but even if you get into it and find it's no worth fixing you have lots of valuable parts to sell should you part it out.

First thing I'd do is pull all of the panels and belly pans and give it a good power washing to remove any gunk or mold so you can really see what you have, if it has a closed cab I'd gut the interior as that's where most of the mold will be, on a open cab machine I'd trash the seat.
After it's cleaned and any possible mold is removed I'd drain the fluids to see how much water is in engine or hydraulic systems, if there'a lots of water in the oil tanks or engine there could be other issues that would require farther tear down, if there's only a small amount of water you could get lucky with the hydraulics.
If it was running when it was submerged there's a high probability the engine has damage, but as you said your prepared for that.
Next I'd open up the electric panels and look them over, then hook a jump pak to it and turn on the key to see if anything goes up in smoke, if you stick a battery in it leave the cables loose incase you need to jerk them off quick, if that goes well pull the injectors and add a little oil in the engine and hydraulic system then see if the engine will crank over.
The only concerning part I see is if the engine won't run there's no way to test any of the other components without dropping $$ into the engine first.
Any electrical components below the operators seat should have good sealed connectors, above the seat could have common plugs and switches so you'll want to pull any of the electrical panels out and check those.
You most likely got it cheap and can afford to drop some coins into it, not sure what model it is but I'd say that $45k figure you tossed out there is a low ball number for one of those machines, mine is one of the larger models and a new one today is around $75-80k.
Good luck ether way it goes as a running machine or parts for sell.
 
Thanks. Very good information. Just what I was looking for. It's a New Holland C232 track loader with enclosed cab and air. Joystick controls. I planned on replacing the headliner and seat. You understand exactly what I am thinking. Fix it if not too bad but don't get into it and find out it is a money pit. Lots of good parts to sell if I find something too bad.

Galen
 
How is the SKID steer coming? Just curious. I had a Kubota RTV go swimming one. The water in the engine bent a rod. We rebuilt it and it worked good afterward.
 

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