Magneto help

We are working on a 1928 10 - 20 McCormick Deering. The mag is dead, tried to clean and set points but it has nothing when holding the wires in your hand. I thought that I had several spare mags around for it but can't find them. Where can I get this mag repaired or find another hot mag? This was my late fathers 10-20 and my son wants to get it running again.
 
Maybe Rudy Calin Rebuilt Mags of Forest Lake, MN - if you google it, there'll be a link to his website
and his contact info.
 
You say Magneto is not working. some thing to think about. 1. is the magneto grounding out shorting it to not fire. Points are they set right and opening and closing. 3. Is the rotor turning and making contact to the dist. Cap so it can fire on the right spot. Just remember the coil can not be grounding out. When turning off the engine you ground out the coil thus makes no spark to cylinders causing it shut off. When all has failed pull it and put it on a bench in a vise. Than work it on that vise doing a visual check on it. Watch it work and note what it is not doing. Step by step you will find the problem. Good luck I might have not been any help but just thought I would ask.
 
I agree! Rudy does great work, and is very reasonable! He has done two mags for me in the last 6 months or so, and one of them I intended to drop off - 45 minutes later I was on the road with a hot magneto. He got it going again while I waited! Can't find service like that almost anywhere anymore. Rudy is a great guy, does GREAT work, and has a huge stock of new/NOS parts and rebuilt mags ready to go!
Rudy Calin Rebuilt Mags
 
Agreed! Rudy did our Farmall Regular magneto... excellent job.

We just shipped him our WICO from our B John Deere... expecting the same results.
 
I work on mags as a hobby. What mag do you have? I have 3 F4 on the shelf ready to go. I have a magnet charger too.
 
When I put a screw driver up to mine it does not stay. Sorry this answer is no help to me to help you. I am not trying to joke around I am only trying to understand what you have done to your Magneto. You stated it is not firing a spark did you pull the magneto off the engine and then put it back on? If so did you put it back on time and made Shure the Magneto is on time with the engine? Some time Magnetos can be hard to put back on the engine because when you think they are in time they can be off after they snap and send the spark to cylinder. Thus means if it snaps and send a spark if this is off it will spark late. This means that the spark than is a back fire and it will not run meaning the amount of timing is off. Means than you have to determine the degrees it takes for the snap to happen to make it fire on time. I should know I have pulled and fix many Magnetos Thus understanding most people do fail on installing them. They forget that you have ex mark degrees for that snapping to happen before the spark. I might add the contact between the rotor and the cap must be in line when firing the spark to that cylinder. You might have a good magneto but it may not be on time. Some thing to think about.
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That one of yours looks like mine. Has not been off the tractor. Emery paper on the points which were very coated with white oxidation. Bare hands on the spark plug wire, not so much as a tickle. Rudy Calin says not much for magnetism on the outside of a horseshoe magnet.
 
Would you happen to have a magneto to match a WICO Series A model 5560? It is one cylinder, base mount, slot drive, CLOCKWISE rotation. I don't need repair, I need another magneto like this - I have two engines and only one magneto. Thank you for your postings.
Jerry Loeffelbein, Cashmere, Washington
 
I have a couple 4 cyl base mount. A 1 cyl FM flange mount & part of a 1 cyl base mount that I don't know what it is. A picture of yours would be nice. Thanks.
 
Well I got pretty agressive with cleaning the points again. I used a small file, then 100 grit paper, then 400 wet/dry emery. It will spark now Not strong, but spark. I'll clean and polish some more and then I'm going to get a new cap and make some wires for it. I've never seen oxidation on points so difficult to remove as this one has been. Thanks for the advise and help with a parts source. I've been out of tractor collecting for many years (over 30)and all my parts connections are long gone.
 
The person we bought it from claimed it is a 1935 Mc Cormick Deering model 0-12. It runs to what a deal we had got. It had even came with a set of disks.
 

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