Chevrolet pickup question

notjustair

Well-known Member
A family member has a 95 Chevrolet 1500 extended cab that he wants to sell. He had trouble with the transmission and towed it in to be rebuilt by a good shop - a friend of his or something. After it was done the shop mechanic realized that the rear ended is going out on it as well. I'm not sure what he means by "going out" but the family member trusts his judgement - he's so fed up with it he wants it gone. It's in good shape and would make a really nice chore pickup. Especially since he only wants $2000 for it. If I remember right it has about 260,000 miles on it and isn't using oil.

My question is what years would be a direct reared swap? I'm not too concerned about gearing (although I think it has 4.10 in it) as I have a 2500 chore truck to pull heavy hay wagons and things if the gearing is a little high or something. It would likely never see 60 miles an hour again so low gearing doesn't bother me either. I don't really need another project, so I'm looking to find out what years I should be looking for at a junkyard to get a complete rearend for it, bleed the brakes, and go.
 
2wd or 4wd?

Obviously, if it's 4wd the rear end ratio needs to match the front. That being said, 1988 to 1998 were the same body style so one would assume the rear ends would interchange.

All it takes to find out for sure is a phone call to a salvage yard.
 
If I remember right to find the rear end differential gears ratio would be printed on the Vin numbers of that truck. Must have a book that talks about breaking down your Vin numbers on those trucks. If it's not there than you should find a tag on the pumpkin of that rear end axle. They should have the gear ratio stamped on it. This book I am referring to will also tell you every thing about you vin numbers: Such as color of truck, Interior, Date that it was made, what number it was on that year and etc. Just go to your local book store or on line for Chevy truck information book that covers those year of trucks. I have even found this information in shop manuals.
 
Focus. He wants to know which years will the rear ends interchange. Everyone jumps to gear ratios. Why? There are many same gear ratio rear ends that will not mechanically interchange with his. Focus on the question. Please help the man.
 
Goose already "helped the man" - he said that he thinks 1988 to 1998 should all match as they were the same body style.

I will add that I'm looking at a Haynes repair manual right now, and it appears he is correct. The manual lists that it's for 1988-1998 as well as 1999 & 2000 trucks. If I remember right, 1999 & 2000 will also fit, but not 100% certain.
 
That's at least double the fair price for a truck that age and that condition/mileage.

If you are determined to have it, be aware there's MANY possible variations in the brakes and rear sway bar mountings that will make what should be an easy swap just a bit more difficult, but probably doable if it doesn't have to be highway legal, not to mention likely several pinion yokes/driveline combinations.

It would be interesting to know just what is wrong with the axle it was born with.
 
Why swap out the bad rear end with another worn-out differential? You will not find a good junk yard rear end, as they tend to go at around 100K. My guess is that one has already been rebuilt at least once.

I assume "going out" means the bearings are getting loose, causing the rear end to make noise and leak oil. And if they haven't already been replaced, the ring and pinion gears are likely gone. Minimal rebuild will require a bearing kit which runs about $150. For less than 500 bucks, you can buy the parts for a full rebuild: bearing kit, ring and pinion set and wheel bearings. Add another 500 bucks and you can upgrade to a TruTrac locking differential (assuming it doesn't already have a locker). I've done a rebuild myself, I won't say it was easy but it wasn't terribly difficult; you need a dial indicator to set up the backlash. Or, for about 500 bucks labour you can have a rear end shop do the whole job.

I doubt it has a 4.10 rear end. I'm not sure what was offered in '95, but I think 3.48 or 3.73 is more likely.
 
If it's a 2WD and he can get close to $2,000 for a it as-is, I would take that and find something different to drive. That truck has probably eaten close to 20,000 gallons on fuel already.
 
(quoted from post at 04:50:53 07/20/17)
It is 22 years old and has 260,000 miles, why would anyone want an elderly worn out vehicle with problems ?

Exactly! That truck is overdue for delivery to a recycler.
 
(quoted from post at 07:37:41 07/20/17)
(quoted from post at 04:50:53 07/20/17)
It is 22 years old and has 260,000 miles, why would anyone want an elderly worn out vehicle with problems ?

Exactly! That truck is overdue for delivery to a recycler.

So why are we ripping on this guy? We all know that if this truck was another 40 years older, or if it was a 50 year old tractor, we would move heaven and earth to get it going again.
So let's help him out and not pick on him. He's just ahead of the curve. That truck will be collectible before we know it.
 
I agree. He asked an honest question, let's help him.

A couple of years ago, I put an '89 K1500 4wd extended cab long box Chevy on a consignment auction. TMU. (True Miles Unknown). I had the auctioneer announce that from what I knew, it had at least 300,000 on it.

It brought $2200.
 
there are books that talk about RESTOATION work on old cars and trucks. These books help when it comes to finding casting codes on years that parts like this are made. So if you are searching for these years around that truck the casting codes such as R-2 in I.H. tractors is for 51 to 55 using this as an example. I do have a Mustang book that cross reference all years on parts that will work for my 1967 Mustang (had to have it when restoring car because the car was taken apart to the body and left). Look for a cross reference book or go on line. Sorry not much help with some thing like this new of a car. I use to only restore old cars like the 1940's to the 1960's.
 
I have driven several pickups in excess of 100,000 and have yet to have a rear end go bad. Guess I am lucky.
 
Whether or not that pickup is ready for the crusher depends a lot on the body. Around here it would be a Flintstones car. But if the body is in good condition, it's probably worth fixing up. Of course, if you sink $2000 into a $2000 vehicle, you still have a $2000 vehicle.
 
>
I have driven several pickups in excess of 100,000 and have yet to have a rear end go bad. Guess I am lucky.

How many GM half-ton pickups have you owned from the early nineties?
 
In the 1/2 ton that body style came out in 1988 and went on to half of 1999.
On the 1 ton and suburban platform they started that body style in 1992.

Several options that will bolt in.

-Light duty 1/2 ton had a GM 10 bolt rear end, common was 3.08, 3.42 and 3.73 gear ratio.

-A heavy duty half ton was offered that had the 9.5" 14 bolt rear end with 5 or 6 bolt axle flanges ( 2wd + 4wd) so you could use the 1/2 ton wheels.

-Depending on it being 2wd or 4wd you will find rear ends with either 5 bolt or 6 bolt pattern for the wheels, these can be changed from one diff to another if required.
 
You really don't need to swap the whole rearend housing itself out unless it got a bend in it. A good mechanic can replace anything in the center section pretty quick, and easy if he has the right parts needed to fix it. The bearings usually go out first (because all the gear oil leaked out over time) which also wears out the gears. It could also be just a axle bearing going out.
 
I'm just trying to be realistic. The original poster is thinking of repairing someone else's vehicle, not his own. If the relative that owns the truck is talking about selling it, most likely it will be sold soon regardless of the repair. Investing $500 worth of parts and 10 plus hours of parts chasing and wrenching into a vehicle that is still driveable won't change its value much if the repair is done well and could decrease it's value if done badly. Investing a similar amount of time and labor into the relative's replacement vehicle might benefit the relative more and be appreciated more too.
 
I am sorry I did not jump to gear ratio but instead I told him to look for his back differential tag Id numbers on his truck. Located on the back pumpkin on that rear end. giving him some Ideal what to look for in a salvage yard. How about a reference book on casting number and vin numbers for his truck on referring to interchange parts. Yes I do have a book that covers 1967 threw 1968 Mustang refereeing to interchanging parts for those cars vey helpful book. these books can help out for people like him who want to do it this way.
 
There are a lot of ifs. If it's not rusted out, if the motor runs good, if the interior is still intact and if the electrical is is in decent shape. Then I wouldn't hesitate on it for a chore truck. There's no sense in paying $40K+ to bounce around in the pasture. In my neck of the woods the transmission is worth $1500. I would offer $1700 and go from there. IMO the 90's models trucks, any make, were some of the best ever made. I would rather spend $20,000 to rebuild a decent 95 model as to drive one of the new disaster waiting to happen new trucks and have close to fifty grand in it. I know of several mid ninety models that are well over 400K miles and still going without a lot of problems. A friend of mine is driving a 96 Chevy with over a half a million miles, it's more dependable than his 2014 Chevy. But I'm old school so take it for what it's worth.
 
I could swap an entire rear end out myself with minimal effort for the cost of new U bolts and probably swap out the shocks an do the brakes while it was apart. I would have to pay someone to replace the rear gear set and hope they were competent. Moving used gears from one worn rear axle to another worn rear axle doesn't sound like a winning plan.


If it is just a bearing and seal that would be fairly fast and easy to replace. If a guy lets all the oil leak out of the rear end without bothering to check/repair I would have to wonder what else they let go without fixing.
 
1988-1998 for 1500 series trucks
1990-2000 for 2500 and 3500 series trucks.

If you care what gear ratio is in it, that information will be an option code on the sticker in the glove compartment. The code will start with a G.
 
Nothing wrong with running an old truck I have a 2000 Chevy with over 250,000 I wouldn't take 4 grand for. Not because it's worth more than that because I couldn't replace it for that without going through hell looking for another truck.

It's a regular cab long bed 4WD with locker, rocker panels are gone but that is the only rust. Just put a $1700.00 transmission in it. Runs great about a quart low between changes and does everything I need it to do. It's a truck not a family car wanna be.
 
only 2000.00 ? never know that same truck may only bring 500.00 on auction. is it 4x4? or 2x4? big difference, gas or diesel? why not phone the auto parts recyclers as they can answer that question as that their business to sell u the parts.
 
I would think at that mileage the truck is done. I buy used Cadillacs at 40,000-70,000 miles at 125,000 I get rid of them before they annoy me.
 

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