Help me pick a tractor?

RedORdead · Jul 17, 2017

I'm looking at two tractors for my farm. Mainly to be use to mow, bush hog, drag, and spray weed killer.

One is a Farmall M, all paint is gone it is now surface rust color. It runs and drive well with an aftermarket three point hitch.

The other is a Farmall 350 with power steering, ta, two point hitch, and faded faded but little rust. The pto has trouble disengaging and the wiring needs a little tlc as you have to jump the solenoid to start it.

$1500 for the M with a bush hog

$1200 for the 350

Which should I choose? The problems with the 350 don't really scare me but I know it's pretty much an update H

David G · Jul 17, 2017

The 350 will be much handier with live hydraulics and live PTO.

I personally would not want to fart around with non live anymore.

RedORdead · Jul 17, 2017

Think I'll miss any power? Should try to find 400? One not doing any serious pulling but need to pull some tree around

ptfarmer · Jul 17, 2017

The 350 has a little more power than the M. I would look for one with a diesel, factory 3 point, and live pto.

Dennis(IA) · Jul 17, 2017

I would second David G, I would want live hydraulics and live pto.

Janicholson · Jul 17, 2017

350 by a wide margin. It is a modern tractor with safety and user friendly drive systems. The 350 has everything a tractor made in 2000 has (except electronic nightmares. Buy it and even if you pay to have it fixed, it will be perfect. jim

jturbo10 · Jul 17, 2017

Farmall 350 better option if tires are good and doesn't need engine or tranny work. Both tractors are easy to work on.

old · Jul 17, 2017

350 no questions asked live Hyds and live PTO leave the M in the dust. Fast hitch is easy to convert to 3 point

D Slater · Jul 17, 2017

The 350 unless you don't need IPTO or engine driven hydraulics and good power steering is better than none if the M doesn't have it added. Also a faster 4th gear on the 350 than a standard M. If you need a little more weight on the front and lugging power without the previous mentioned things maybe the M. 350 may have more power on paper but most M still around will keep pulling when the 350 engine dies off. Have both models or have had with fire crater kits in both. 350 is peppy but no way it would lug down and pull with the M. 350 needs more weight on front for some fast hitch implements than a 400. If worried about power and wanting something in the time frame maybe a 400 or 450.

buickanddeere · Jul 17, 2017

If there is not live pto, live hydraulics, real working brakes, a creeper first and reverse gear, power steering, a real three point hitch, a proper drawbar and a complete functional 12V electrical system. Keep looking, it is a buyers market.
Consider how much that old tractor can cost in labour tires, cooling system, engine , electrical etc. Over 10 years it can cost more than a new or newish machine .

erskine2017 · Jul 17, 2017

Look for a late 450 that is factory12 volt and factory power steering. They are a great tractor.

Brendon-KS · Jul 17, 2017

For doing the jobs you describe you won't be giving up any power by picking the 350 over an M if both are in the same operating condition. In fact, due to the much lower low gear made
possible by the TA in the 350 that tractor could probably generate more tractive effort than the M if ballasted the same. In the Nebraska tractor tests the low gear maximum pull for the 350
was over 50% greater than it was for the M at the same wheel slippage but since it was weighted a lot heavier it isn't really an apples-to-apples comparison. Regardless, when it comes to
overall work capacity the two are in the same class.

You are correct in that the 350 descended from the H but don't count that against it - it grew up and matured a lot during that time.

RedORdead · Jul 17, 2017

The 350 I'm looking seems to be a better bargain with much better paint than the M. If I get the M I'd be settling because there is a super MTA down the road I want to buy just for a collector and yard ornament.

Are these paint jobs in the realm of DIY?

steve_in_mo · Jul 17, 2017

The diesel in the 350 is not desirable.
It was a Continental engine, and parts
have long ago gone scarce and pricey.

David G · Jul 17, 2017

I would skip the MTA, go to a 400 or 450, MTA missing to many features.

Married2Allis · Jul 17, 2017

I agree with moving up to a 400 or 450. But whatever you choose, if you think that you'll get away with $1500 for a running chore tractor that you can use and rely on for any length of time ... well you might just end up disappointed. May want to have another $1500 handy for it whatever it's going to need! Just saying from experience.

David G · Jul 17, 2017

I would agree with latest comment, $1200-$1500 gets you the tractor, several thousand later it is usable.

RedORdead · Jul 17, 2017

I want the MTA FOR COLLECTIVE PURPOSES, just for a tractor of that era. The 350 will suffice for the next era.

I would love a 400 or 450( btw what's the difference) but I can't find one with into 200 miles of 19956 in my budget(under 2g)

RedORdead · Jul 17, 2017

Here's the pto whine,

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1Ba0z4f-CRybGd3ZTI2ZUxQeDg

Roger Tomfohrde · Jul 17, 2017

I would probably go with the 350 because it has a few more creature comforts and you are not really working either very hard. The fuel difference is minor. The 350 will have live hydraulics standard where an M would have it added on if it has it. The three point is nice but the aftermarket makes it harder to get on. The two point can be converted, but it is still easier to get on. Just some thoughts. Even if there is not power steering the 350 steers easy compared to the M s that I have driven. I know I am getting soft but that is getting older for you.

Ji Case 35172 · Jul 17, 2017

Move up to a Farmall 450 or a Case 400 don't bother with either of
those two tractors.

Roger in Wisconsin · Jul 18, 2017

350 is the better tractor

ss55 · Jul 18, 2017

Both tractors are easy to work on. The 350 is handier, more economical to run and has better features except for the aftermarket 3 point hitch on the M. The 350 is only about 5 to 10 HP smaller than the M, although the M is heavier so it can pull more. For your applications, live PTO and live hydraulics will help a lot. Power steering helps too. How many hydraulic valves do the 350 and the M have?

If/when you ever need to trade up you will get more for the 350 and it should be much easier to sell in your area than a rust covered M. The aftermarket 3 point hitch is probably worth $400 to $500, but isn't as handy without live hydraulics.

RedORdead · Jul 18, 2017

(quoted from post at 05:39:41 07/18/17) Both tractors are easy to work on. The 350 is handier, more economical to run and has better features except for the aftermarket 3 point hitch on the M. The 350 is only about 5 to 10 HP smaller than the M, although the M is heavier so it can pull more. For your applications, live PTO and live hydraulics will help a lot. Power steering helps too. How many hydraulic valves do the 350 and the M have?

If/when you ever need to trade up you will get more for the 350 and it should be much easier to sell in your area than a rust covered M. The aftermarket 3 point hitch is probably worth $400 to $500, but isn't as handy without live hydraulics.

So I'm getting the 350 this Saturday.

Just few things I need to know, I'm going to rewire some of it as the wiring is not all done well. Where can I find a diagram to wire it?

The pto needs adjustment, best instruction would be what?

And the paint is faded can I just sand it and clear coat it maybe touch up the rough spots?

rankrank1 · Jul 18, 2017

You will love that 350, I would be thrilled to find one at that price.

The SMTA is highly desirable and highly collectable. For all intents and puposes it is essentially a 400 with the nostalagic m sheet metal. So if you like old look sheet metal yet want the modern features like live PTO and live hydraulics then this is a good option too.

I have an h and I have an M too. I would take a 350 or a SMTA over either one of mine. only thing about em is they are so simple they work.

ss55 · Jul 19, 2017

It's a long shot, but ask the seller if he has an operator's manual or any other manuals for the tractor. If not, you should be able to find one on ebay, a dealer or maybe Binder Books. The inexpensive IT service manuals sold at farm and home stores are very generic and basic, but better than nothing.

Help me pick a tractor?

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