HVFDfirefighter
Member
Have the chance to get a Farmall Super A. I do not know much about farmall. I have two Allis Chalmers (WD and D14). I Took carb apart and cleaned. Took sediment bowl off and cleaned. Drained tank. Put in fresh gas. Gas is flowing to carb. (looks like the same type as my D14m a Marvel Schreiber). Has alternator on left side of tractor connected to fan (one like what you would see in a truck or a car). On the right side by the distributor is a black solenoid (I think that is what it is called) that is labeled 6 volt connected by two wires. So I am assuming this is a 6 volt setup. I put my 6 volt battery on (which has no problem starting my WD, plus I charged the battery over night). It would barely even turn the tractor over. Took a small 12 volt battery out of the lawn mower that was sitting there. It turned the tractor over pretty good but it did not even attempt to start. Tried to take spark plugs out in order to dump some gas in each cylinder but I did not have the right size plug wrench so I couldn't get them out for now. (an hour away from home, and I never have enough or the right tools with me).
On the operator's planel of the tractor is a switch (push in to stop, pull out to run). It didn't move very well so I took the two wires off of the back cleaned them and connected the wires directly together (bypassing the switch).
There is also a round knob that turns from the Letters C, D, and B. I have know clue what this is, I am guessing C for charge, B for battery D? It has wires running to the alternator and maybe meter, I cant remember). Any help on this?
There are a lot of wires with missing insulation. Tractor is negative ground (I am pretty sure) I can get tractor to turn over, but not start with negative ground. When I switched to positive ground, I got all kinds of sparks at the battery terminals so I switched back to negative ground. If I have negative battery post to ground and positive battery post directly to starter, what other essential wire(s) do I need? (another words, I am trying to bypass the entire existing wiring and get tractor to at least fire, hopefully even run).
The tractor has sat in a shed since last used. It was running in good shape when placed in there 15 years or so years ago. When turning over with battery, the hydraulics were actually moving. I lowered them, Pushed in the clutch and am holding it in with a block of wood figuring that if the clutch is in, there is less to turn, making it easier start.
Any help on this would be appreciated.
On the operator's planel of the tractor is a switch (push in to stop, pull out to run). It didn't move very well so I took the two wires off of the back cleaned them and connected the wires directly together (bypassing the switch).
There is also a round knob that turns from the Letters C, D, and B. I have know clue what this is, I am guessing C for charge, B for battery D? It has wires running to the alternator and maybe meter, I cant remember). Any help on this?
There are a lot of wires with missing insulation. Tractor is negative ground (I am pretty sure) I can get tractor to turn over, but not start with negative ground. When I switched to positive ground, I got all kinds of sparks at the battery terminals so I switched back to negative ground. If I have negative battery post to ground and positive battery post directly to starter, what other essential wire(s) do I need? (another words, I am trying to bypass the entire existing wiring and get tractor to at least fire, hopefully even run).
The tractor has sat in a shed since last used. It was running in good shape when placed in there 15 years or so years ago. When turning over with battery, the hydraulics were actually moving. I lowered them, Pushed in the clutch and am holding it in with a block of wood figuring that if the clutch is in, there is less to turn, making it easier start.
Any help on this would be appreciated.