Ford 8n will not stay runnimg

buggyman6699

New User
Hello gentleman... I'm new to the 8n world but trying to get the family 8n tractor running. I have replaced the coil, points, cap, rotor, condenser, plugs and wires.... I have got to the point where if i sprayed carb cleaner I can keep it running but once I stop spraying it dies out... I assumed it was the carburetor and replaced with a new one. Unfortunately did the same thing..... I got a wiring diagram and rewired everything including putting a new ignition switch. Still nothing... this morning I had some luck keeping it runni g without carb cleaner... I disconnected the pipe that goes from carb to air cleaner but at air cleaner and putting my hand over the pipe I was able to manipulate air going in pipe by opening and closing my hand. But if I opened my hand it would die out. Im lost please help.
 
By covering the pipe you are essentially
choking it. I would say something not right
in carb. I'm sure old will chime in. He has
a lot more experience with them.
 
Welcome buggyman!

Your problem is fuel related, or rather lack of fuel related.

There is a drain plug in the bottom of the carb. With the fuel valve open, engine off, remove the plug, catch the flow in a clean glass.

The flow should start strong, then taper down as the bowl empties, but continue as a stream, not slow to a drip or stop.

If there is little or no flow, the fuel is not getting into the bowl. Start tracing the problem back toward the tank. Some carbs have a filter screen at the fitting where the line connects. There is a screen above the sediment bowl, and a tube inside the tank where the valve screws into the tank. Be sure the tank has a vented cap. Try loosening the cap, just because it says vented doesn't mean it always is.

If you do get good flow, look at what is collected. Check for water, rust flakes, trash. If it came through the carb drain, then it is in the carb. It can easily be disassembled and cleaned. There is also a main jet adjustment. Be sure it is open about 1 1/2 turns.

Hope this helps, let us know.
 
N's have an unusual fuel shut off. One turn is normal. More turns allow the last gal to flow as a
reserve. Reserve is usually clogged. In real life this means you have to have at least a gallon
to run and more than one turn stops the flow. Take the plug out of the bottom of the carb and make
sure it is getting a flow before you take the carb apart.
 
(quoted from post at 16:28:56 05/20/17) N's have an unusual fuel shut off. One turn is normal. More turns allow the last gal to flow as a
reserve. Reserve is usually clogged. In real life this means you have to have at least a gallon
to run and more than one turn stops the flow. Take the plug out of the bottom of the carb and make
sure it is getting a flow before you take the carb apart.
You may be on the right track here 5Window. Normal is actually
two full turns out though and I always use two or more gallons of gas.
Opening it all the way will definitely get you into that reserve, and it is often plugged.

Buggyman, what are you going to do with your original carb?
I rebuild about 75 - 100 of them a year for N owners. I can always use a spare.

When you do that flow test through the carb, out of the drain plug, you should
get about a pint of gas in 2 minutes with the shutoff valve open two full turns.

The N's have three screens. The two mentioned and one in the
brass elbow that goes into the carb where the fuel line connects.
I assume that one was replaced with the new carb.
 
First i would check that you have a good blue/white spark at all the plug wires that jump a 1/4 inch gap or more. Ya maybe not the problem but check it any how to be sure and also by doing that first less likely to cause a fire.

Next pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in under 3 minutes. And yes catch it so as to look for water/dirt etc. If the flow is not as it needs to be work your way back till you find where the problem is
 
(quoted from post at 13:03:53 05/20/17) Welcome buggyman!

Your problem is fuel related, or rather lack of fuel related.

There is a drain plug in the bottom of the carb. With the fuel valve open, engine off, remove the plug, catch the flow in a clean glass.

The flow should start strong, then taper down as the bowl empties, but continue as a stream, not slow to a drip or stop.

If there is little or no flow, the fuel is not getting into the bowl. Start tracing the problem back toward the tank. Some carbs have a filter screen at the fitting where the line connects. There is a screen above the sediment bowl, and a tube inside the tank where the valve screws into the tank. Be sure the tank has a vented cap. Try loosening the cap, just because it says vented doesn't mean it always is.

If you do get good flow, look at what is collected. Check for water, rust flakes, trash. If it came through the carb drain, then it is in the carb. It can easily be disassembled and cleaned. There is also a main jet adjustment. Be sure it is open about 1 1/2 turns.

Hope this helps, let us know.




Thank you so much for your input. I will start there and let you all know!
 
By the way it helps us help you if you tell us if it is the older front mount distributor 8N or if it is the newer side mount distributor 8N. Front mount distributor point gap is 0.015 and the latter side mount distributor 8N is 0.025 and if the points are set wrong they can run oddly and cause problems like your having
 
The 8N/9N board will be a big help too. Most of the guys on the first two or three boards also go
to the brand specific boards to help too.
 
(quoted from post at 19:20:06 05/20/17) We haven't ever known what year this thing is... how can we tell?
Serial number on the left side of the engine, if the engine hasn't been changed.
Otherwise, there are date codes on some of the other parts.
Rear axle trumpets, hydraulic pump, etc. All of which could have
been change. Doesn't really matter though. Front mount is front mount.

Check out John Smith's excellent Ford ID section [b:2e51c1398f]here.[/b:2e51c1398f]
 
(quoted from post at 19:30:50 05/20/17)
Will the tractor run without the tube that connects the carb to the air cleaner?
Absolutely.
I would not run it that way too long, or work it in dirty/dusty
conditions though or you'll be sucking dirt into the carb/engine.
 
You can check the serial number.

Here is a link. If you don't find it, could be a 2N or 9N. Click the "Return to Models" link, look under 2N or 9N.

Don't be surprised if you have a hybrid! Many of the parts are interchangeable, at that age anything is possible unless you know the history.
Serial Numbers
 
Buggyman........ennytime you have running issues, change yer sparkies. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. 2nd, while the 4-nipple front mount coil is not as robust as the 5-nipple roundcan coil, it is NOT the cause of yer problems as described. Points are 0.015 and adjusted on the kitchen table. (seriously) In yer case, Pry open the points (0.015) and stick the corner of #1-bill (cheap) and PULL. Polish the INVISIBLE CORROSION from between the points. 3rd, learn how to adjust yer NEW carb. Set the down-pointing MAINJET to 2-turns and LEAVIT!!! Adjust the side-pointing idlemix fer FASTEST idle, NOT SMOOTHEST idle. Understand the difference??? 4th, adjust the under the tank GLASS filter to 2-turns. Turn OFF when NOT running the tractor. 5th, theres a vented dome at the TOP and FRONT of the gastank that gitts plugged by mud-daubbers. You haffta remove the hood to remove the tank to clean the vent. Me? I'd squander $20 (cheap) fer vented gas cap fer 600-series Ford. Simple, eh?.......HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
So you have a 4 nipple distributor cap then and yep points need to be set at 0.015. Also as for year it is a 1948 to early 1950 then since in April or May of 1950 they came out with the improved side mount distributor system. As for spark plugs i use NGK3112 plugs in all my Fords
 
(quoted from post at 19:22:52 05/20/17) Buggyman 5th, theres a vented dome at the TOP and FRONT of the gastank that gitts plugged by mud-daubbers. You haffta remove the hood to remove the tank to clean the vent. Me? I'd squander $20 (cheap) fer vented gas cap fer 600-series Ford. Simple, eh?.......HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

My 2N will stall out from fuel starvation sometimes when the tank is right full. I take the fuel cap off and it will start and run fine. Most of the time it will do that only once and when I replace the cap it runs properly. Likely the vent that Del is talking about in the quote above. I'm too lazy to clean the vent and too cheep to put a vented cap on. That 's my 2/5ths of a nickels worth.
 
(quoted from post at 15:54:32 05/20/17) By the way it helps us help you if you tell us if it is the older front mount distributor 8N or if it is the newer side mount distributor 8N. Front mount distributor point gap is 0.015 and the latter side mount distributor 8N is 0.025 and if the points are set wrong they can run oddly and cause problems like your having

I adjusted the points from .025 to .015 and now w ont even start. Does it matter if it's been converted to 12v? And it has front mounted distributor.
 
bgymn.......you ask does it matter if it's be converted to 12v? Well the points (0.015) don't care; the condenser don't care; the COIL cares. It still needs the MANDATORY ballast resistor ...and... a 12-to-6 volt converting resistor iff'n using the ORIGINAL 6-volt coil. Iff'n using the NEW 12-volt squarecan coil, it still needs the infamous ballast resistor BUT NOT the 12-to-6 volt converting resistor. Understand WHY? (hint: coil is already 12-volts) Given yer stellar performance as a nuiebe tractor mechanic, I'd make a WAG (wild A$$ guess) ya SHORTED the points out. But I FLUNKED mind reading, just ask my ex-wife of 38-yrs.......respectfully, mind reader Dell
 
YES ! the thing of it is that your engine will have free access to the atmosphere (like -air). The engine- you will get it to work - IF you listen to the information provided (for a small fee- yust yoking) These are VERY simple gas engines. Have PHUN !! ;^)
 

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