Case 188d questions/how it fires

I rebuilt my case 580 Ck and now have some troubles. I wrestled it out, rebuilt it, sleeves, mains, rod bearings, had crank out and machined. Put it all together and got it back in place. It turns over and sounds good but does not fire. I have fuel coming into injectors from pump. I disconnected the fuel lines and saw the squirts visually. I spray ether in the intake and nothing. Everything looks good but it doesn't fire. My question is, what causes this thing to fire?. It seems I'm missing something simple like an electrical connection. What gives this thing spark if there is no glow plugs. I double checked the timing and crank and crankshaft line up with the dot and the dot, dot. The pump mark lines up with the pointer and the crankshaft dot. I even yanked the cover off the inspection port on injection pump and lined yhe marks up. Everything seems good, but not firing. If this were a gas engine I would say it had no spark. I am new to diesels. So I'm not sure where to start. Stepping back and thinking about it. Any help would be awesome.
Adrian
 
Do you get any smoke from the exhaust? Sound like you are out of time..Easy to get it 180 degrees out of time.
 
Make sure you have #1, the front cylinder at
top dead center. Not sure if a Case has
timing marks, but it must have if it's a
diesel, line up the marks to where it is
showing #1 @ TDC or whatever the specified
degrees for a Case engine timing is. Then,
after you have that lined up to where it
needs to be, you will have a couple things
to check. If it is truly in the correct
place on #1, both pushrods to #1 will be
loose where they will spin easily between
your fingers, and, after removing the little
2 screw cover on the side of the injection
pump, both lines on the pump drive and
governor should be lined up perfectly. If
so, it SHOULD run, unless you have something
else screwed up. Diesels like that don't
have spark or electronics on the fuel
system, the fuel is sprayed into a fine mist
by the injector after it is pressurized by
the injection pump, and the fuel is ignited
by the compression pressure inside the
cylinder. That is why diesels have much
higher compression than a gas engine. Think
air compressor, the compressor itself gets
hot, because compressing the air makes it
hot, thats how a diesel engine makes its
heat to ignite the fuel. Couple things to
check, did you get all the timing marks
lined up on the gear train (if you had the
front cover and gears apart)? Another, if
you had the pump off the pump driveshaft,
did you line up the dots on the one side of
the tang on the pump drive shaft with the
slot on the pump shaft itself?

Ross
 
Sounds like you are 180 degrees off. Pull the valve cover and verify that you are on the compression stroke at 12 degrees?? before TDC rather than exhaust stroke.
Diesels rely on compression to make them fire, NOT a spark. Glow plugs just preheat the intake air so they start easier.
Loren
 
A few things to check...

As others have said, be sure it is on #1 compression stroke. A simple way to tell, with the valve cover off, set the timing mark at TDC, watch the rockers on #4 cylinder. Rock the engine back and forth a few degrees each side of the TDC mark. You should see the rockers on #4 just start to move because #4 is in valve overlap position. The rockers on #1 should not be moving. If this is happening, it is on #1 compression, if everything is backward, it is in #4 compression. Rotate the crank 360* and check again. Once you know it is on #1 comp, set the pump to that position.

Have you set the valves after assembling it? Sounds like an obvious question, but I have heard of it not being done.

When cranking, do you see white vapor out the exhaust? If no vapor, there is no fuel coming through the injectors. Even though you saw fuel in the lines, that doesn't necessarily mean there is not still air in the system. With air in the lines, the air compresses and the fuel doesn't build enough pressure to crack the injectors. So, if no vapor, keep bleeding. I just loosen the lines at he injectors, crank until I get good flow. Also, there could be a fuel problem ahead of the injector pump. If there is any place it can suck air, it will. Look for loose connections, improperly sealed filter/separator, bad lift pump, rotten lines, etc.

You also need a healthy starter, fully charged battery, good, clean, big battery cables. The engine needs to be cranking fast enough to build enough compression to start.

Once you have everything on order, and still no results, sometimes the more difficult ones need to be pull started.

Remember you will need to retorque the head bolts, and readjust the valves once you get it running and up to temperature.
 
Such good info. I adjusted the pushrods but bent two of them screwing around with things. I ordered a new set of eight and
Replaced them all. New ones seemed beefier. I bet things are a bit off. I will pull cover check tdc and re adjust valves. I bet that's it. I'm surprised I got nothing at all even with either in the intake. I bet the beefier pushrods have things messed up. I knew I should have re adjusted, but figured new ones would be the same as old. I will let you know.
Adrian

quote="Steve@Advance"](quoted from post at 17:54:17 04/27/17) A few things to check...

As others have said, be sure it is on #1 compression stroke. A simple way to tell, with the valve cover off, set the timing mark at TDC, watch the rockers on #4 cylinder. Rock the engine back and forth a few degrees each side of the TDC mark. You should see the rockers on #4 just start to move because #4 is in valve overlap position. The rockers on #1 should not be moving. If this is happening, it is on #1 compression, if everything is backward, it is in #4 compression. Rotate the crank 360* and check again. Once you know it is on #1 comp, set the pump to that position.

Have you set the valves after assembling it? Sounds like an obvious question, but I have heard of it not being done.

When cranking, do you see white vapor out the exhaust? If no vapor, there is no fuel coming through the injectors. Even though you saw fuel in the lines, that doesn't necessarily mean there is not still air in the system. With air in the lines, the air compresses and the fuel doesn't build enough pressure to crack the injectors. So, if no vapor, keep bleeding. I just loosen the lines at he injectors, crank until I get good flow. Also, there could be a fuel problem ahead of the injector pump. If there is any place it can suck air, it will. Look for loose connections, improperly sealed filter/separator, bad lift pump, rotten lines, etc.

You also need a healthy starter, fully charged battery, good, clean, big battery cables. The engine needs to be cranking fast enough to build enough compression to start.

Once you have everything on order, and still no results, sometimes the more difficult ones need to be pull started.

Remember you will need to retorque the head bolts, and readjust the valves once you get it running and up to temperature.[/quote]
 
Thanks for your response. I lined up all the gears according to there marks. The dot is between the dot dot on the camshaft gear and crankshaft gear and the pointer lines up with the crankshaft gear mark and the injection pump mark. I also made sure the two dotes on the end of the injection shaft lined up. I also pulled injection pump cover and lined the marks up. I'm going to adjust push rods and verify I did all this on compression stroke.
Thank you so much.
Adrian
 

Well you hit the nail on the head. I adjusted everything and then I replaced all the pushrods. I only needed to replace one, but I got a whole set of oem case pushrods cheap. The engine was already assembled. So I just replaced all the pushrods. Nothing seemed funny but I didn't check clearances. Turns out pushrods were slightly dufferent and all the valves were open. I adjusted the valves and bam. First try things popped to life. The issue was I could not turn the motor to adjust the valves by hand and there is no room or place to stick a wrench on the crank withought taking the nose off and getting the hydrolic pump out of the way. I wrestled with it and finally was able to set it tdc #1 compression and rotate it 360 and set the other half of the valves. Purring great, I leak like everything, but it is running very nice. No smoke or knocking. Taking it through the break in procedure that came with the instructions for the piston and sleeves. What a big job
Adrian
 

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