Sediment bowls.

Doug Wi · Apr 26, 2017

I can rarely clean one and get it back together w/o leaking. Working on 666IH today. bowl sits right above the starter and always seemed to be seeping abit. Couldn't get it to seat even with new gasket. Finally got disgusted and took it off and replumbed with pipe with a ball valve for a shut off, and then flex line with inline filter to the carb. What do you guys do? I'm sure the filter will take care of any dirt in the system but do you need the sediment bowl to trap any water in the system?

Greg1959 · Apr 26, 2017

Doug Wi- I too, have run into the same problem with the cork seal on sediment bowl.

My suggestions: Don't over-tighten (finger tight only).

Soak the cork gasket in gasoline to allow it to 'swell' up tp to make a better deal.

Use a new seal each time, that is just my observation.

HTH

Steve@Advance · Apr 26, 2017

They can be a problem to stop the leak. Just a matter of getting everything straight, clean, and aligned just right. Sometimes the bail needs some bending to increase the pressure on the gasket. The replacement assemblies are even worse, aftermarket quality can be less that desirable, so hang on to the original as long as possible.

With todays ethanol blend fuel, it takes a lot of water to settle out of the fuel, so that is not a problem when the bowl is removed. What can be a problem though is using a paper pleated inline filter on a gravity flow system. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. So if you start having fuel delivery problems, that would be the first place to look. They do make screen type inline filters designed for gravity systems.

gene bender · Apr 27, 2017

The bodies get warped from overtighting and the gasket cant seal. The Fram see thru ones work good but they sure catch the fines and plug. Always have a new one so you can change they catch fines that the screen doesent. Sometimes it takes a couple till the tank is free from all fines. I see lots of them at shows.

Half · Apr 27, 2017

On my old tractors, I put a coat of grease on each side of the gasket, if there is any rust in the fuel tank, I take a small magnet and put it in the sediment bowl. You don't have to over tighten the sediment bowl and the magnet will attract the rust.

Billy Shafer · Apr 27, 2017

I would also check the top of the bowl for nicks or tiny cracks.

Traditional Farmer · Apr 27, 2017

I do what you did sediment bulbs are a pain in the neck and the screens in them will let things thru that will stop up a carb anyway.Inline filters are much better.

4wdtom · Apr 27, 2017

Look in McMaster Carr for "mini ball valves" I keep one each of 1/8, 1/4, 3/8" NPT around for just this purpose. Even if I keep the strainer a ball valve above it is an easy quick shut off instead of turning the often hard to turn needle valve in the strainer many turns.

TomA in CA · Apr 27, 2017

I take those sediment bowls off and put one of these in the tank with a ball valve outside. This way the tank becomes the sediment bowl. It is good to take it off and drain H2O) and rust once in a while.

Doug Wi · Apr 27, 2017

Thanks for the replies .several things mentioned that I hadn't thought of. Will try this setup and see how it works.

Andy Martin · Apr 27, 2017

I like to leave the sediment bowls on for appearance but also add an inline filter. The last sediment bowl I had off had a bad gasket and I didn't have one to fit so I used some RTV sealant and made one. It has held up well.

fixerupper · Apr 27, 2017

Give the glass bulb a little back and forth twist while you tighten the nut. Sometimes it helps. I never thought about using grease until now. Grease might allow the gasket to move and settle into place better.

Sediment bowls.

Doug Wi

Member

Greg1959

Well-known Member

Steve@Advance

Well-known Member

gene bender

Well-known Member

Half

Member

Billy Shafer

Well-known Member

Traditional Farmer

Well-known Member

4wdtom

Well-known Member

TomA in CA

Member

Doug Wi

Member

Andy Martin

Well-known Member

fixerupper

Well-known Member

Similar threads