ford 601 carb. help

valley iron · Apr 25, 2017

have a ford 601 with marvel tsx 765 carb. did comlete carb overhaul and runs for a while then dies. acts like just running out of fuel. adjusted and runs perfect but after throttle up will run a few minutes then dies clean no sputtering. tank clean,new fuel tap,new 1/4 fuel hose,new sediment screen.will do same thing with fuel cap on or off.good suction to air filter.could float not have enough bend in it by running bowl out too soon or some kind of air leak? hate to order new $180 carb if not problem. any advise?

valley iron · Apr 25, 2017

also when it starts to die you can idle it down real quick and will continue to run but if not have to chocke it to restart even when hot

PopinJohn · Apr 25, 2017

May be an ignition problem.
Bad condenser or bad coil will mimic carb problem.
MikeS

valley iron · Apr 25, 2017

new coil and condenser but dosent mean they havent gone bad

David G · Apr 25, 2017

Could also be "new" needle and seat sticking.

Does it leak when sitting?

Tap on carb when it is dying.

valley iron · Apr 25, 2017

it leaked at first but replaced new float with old one because new one didnt want to seat

valley iron · Apr 25, 2017

but i will try old needle and see what happens

David G · Apr 25, 2017

I would not start changing parts, rap good on the carb when it stumbles.

Steve@Advance · Apr 25, 2017

Pull the drain plug on the bottom of the carb with the fuel valve open. Catch the fuel in a clean glass. You should get a full stream of fuel. it will slow as the bowl empties but still flow a stream, not slow to a drip.

This will prove if fuel is making it to the bowl.

If flow is slow or stops, there is a restriction. Inline filters can be too restrictive for gravity systems. Some carbs have a screen in the inlet elbow. Other causes, the float set too low or binding, trash in the seat, defective needle/seat, fuel line too close to the exhaust causing vapor lock.

If good flow, look at what was caught. Even though the tank was cleaned, it doesn't take much to contaminate the carb. If the sample is dirty, the same will be in the carb. If necessary, open it up and clean it again.

You'll want to keep the original carb if at all possible. The new ones are aftermarket fit-all applications.

Royse · Apr 25, 2017

"did comlete carb overhaul and runs for a while then dies."

Did it do this before the rebuild?

old · Apr 25, 2017

Always trouble shoot then parts NEVER parts then trouble shoot. New parts before you trouble shoot means your going to ad problems before you fix any.

#1 check that you have a good blue/white spark that will jump a 1/4 inch gap or more at all the plugs and the center wire of the cap.

#2 pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in less then 3 minutes.

Also when you rebuilt the carb did you use a small piece of wire or as I do a torch tip cleaner tool to poke out all the passage ways

MH · Apr 27, 2017

I would lean towards your condenser. Get a good quality condenser (Standard or NAPA) and see what it does.

valley iron · Apr 27, 2017

finally!!! got tractor running again.was fixing to start trouble shooting firing when i decided to take carb apart one last time. specs called for 0.26-0.29 for float.went to about 0.23 and after about an hour of running it so far so good.has a little sputter in exhaust at high rpms but i think a little fine tuning will fix that. updraft carbs can be so tempermentel! thanks for all the advise. nice to have a place to turn where everyone is so helpful!

ford 601 carb. help

valley iron

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