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O/T Evenrude out board spark problem

O

old

Well-known Member
Location
Camdenton Missouri
So I have a friend who is having me try to fix his 50HP 1995 Evenrude out board. Yesterday I looked at it and could make it run some times but not run more times. I checked for spark and most of the time it did not seem to have a spark but noticed when he turned it off I got a spark every time. The times I did get it to run I messed with the 2 switches it has. Once the key switch and moving the wires hooked to it and the next time the safety switch and I pushed it in harder and got it to start. If I knew what wires where what on the engine I would hot wire it to see if it would run that way but since it has an ignition module not sure what wires are what. So any body have any ideas of what maybe wrong??
Thanks
Would have asked this last night but earthlink was down so I could not get on line
 
Possibly just jump each switch very close to switch wiring. That way surely would not hurt module. Little different condition, however on outboard with severely cracked coils I used points only and wired two automotive coils. Was able to fit coils under hood of outboard.
 
I'm pretty sure the ignition and kill switch ground the ignition, like a magneto.

I want to say a black and yellow wire? Might look at the color wire common to the ignition and kill switch, try disconnecting that wire at the pack.

A lot safer disconnecting than hot wiring.
 
From what I could see yesterday the module has 3 wires. one yellow one one yellow and purple I think and one gray wire. The 2 yellow ones have power all the time and the gray wire power when turned on. I did check the coils and know they work just fine. I hooked power to each coil then unhooked them and got a nice blue spark
 
Try disconnecting the gray, see if it will run.

Be very careful applying power to any of the ignition components, can let out the expensive smoke!
 
Does it have magneto ignition or battery ignition? I got out of the outboard repair business before '95, so I'm not up on the latest. If it has battery ignition, I don't think it would have a "kill" switch.

Electronic ignition has probably cured the problem, but when I was in the business most ignition problems were either spark plugs or plug wires.
 
Kill switch is the type that if a guy falls over board it pull a line that in turn pulls a keeper off a switch which in turn shuts the engine down. It is a battery type ignition not a mag
 
I had a 35HP Evinrude; it cost me a lot of money trying to keep that thing running. Even the Evinrude dealer couldn't keep it running.
 
I'm no expert. I had one that would fire up every time I stopped cranking. You will have to excuse my ignorance on the name of things. under the flywheel there where coils I think that's what there called, a magnet on the flywheel passes them. They had a little bit of rust on them and so did the magnets, I polished them up nice and shiny and ran for 2 years since.
 
On many of the older ones with a mag you had that but this one is newer and has electronic ignition. Ya it still has the coils and magnet but that is the alternator to charge the battery
 
I replaced the dead man switch and found was one that when in the run position it opens the circuit. So I then tried pulling the gray wire off and that did not make it start or have spark so hooked it back up and tried the same on the other 2 and still no spark
 
Well, at this point you're going to have to find some trouble shooting procedures, otherwise it will be some expensive guess work.

Since the module has already been replaced, that leaves the trigger coils or the stator. Both are under the flywheel, they may be one assembly.

The stator supplies the charge to the coils. It does require a minimum cranking speed to spark, so be sure the battery is up, might try cranking with the plugs out. If it sparks with the plugs out, could be the stator is weak. The old ones you could probe the wire to the coils with test light, but I don't think that works any more with the capacitor discharge ignition. Another special tool...

The trigger coils tell the module when to fire the coils. I don't know of any way to test that without special equipment.

I would still trace the kill wire back to the engine, disconnect it there just in case there is a short or another safety switch.
 
Unless something has changed, no it does not run off the battery. I could be wrong, been a few years since I've worked on one, but have not seen one that ran off the battery.

That the kill switch is open when the fob is connected is a clue.

It's a safety thing, so you don't get stranded because the battery is dead.
 
Guess maybe I need to pull the flywheel off and have a look see. One thing I know is that at one time some one hooked up the battery backwards so from what the guy who owns it say doing that smoke test some stuff
 
Connecting he battery backward may have shorted the rectifier, that could be why there was power on the 2 yellow wires.

The rectifier you can test with an ohm meter.
 
I have not found any thing that looks like a rectifier as of yet. The ignition module is new but of course that does not always say it is good
 
I think Steve@Advance has you going in the right direction.

I'm more familiar with Mercs but if it's anything like them there's a pretty straight forward troubleshooting method that isolates the various components.

I did have to buy an adapter that plugged into my multi meter to capture the trigger voltage (it happens so quick you don't see it) but other then that it was all normal shop tools.

In my case it ended up being the stator and the "switch box". I don't think your engine has the switch box, that function is integrated into the ignition/coil modules.

K
 
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