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bolt broke in Aluminium

D

Dblair

Well-known Member
what is the best way that you know of to remove an oxidized bolt from Aluminum ? anyone ? 10 mm .
 
weld a washer on it then a nut to the washer,let it cool then try working it back and forth with a good pair of vice grips, if it doesn't move heat the aluminum then try again, don't get force full with it as it will just twist off again. if this doesn't work my email is open for another suggestion.
 
Any sticking out? What kind of access do you have? Pics would really help. If you can, hitting it with a hammer will sometimes break the corrosion.
 
Worst case scenario I drill series of small holes around the stud , pull it out,then fill in the whole mess with weld and re-tap. I have a TIG welder.
 
Has anyone ever used the freeze in a can stuff for bolt removal, i never have, just wondering if it works. If it does there would seem to be places where heat would be bad to use that it might work for.
 

2X what dr sportster said. I recently tried for three weeks to remove an aluminum cast T'stat housing from a cyl. head that was held on by two nuts on 3 inch long 3/8 studs. The product of electrolysis corrosion builds up to such a degree between the steel and the aluminum that I believe that it is under extreme pressure instead of simple friction. I was successful at this same job on another car fifteen years ago. What I did was drill 3/32 holes into the aluminum right against the stud. I then injected acid in the hole with a syringe twice a day for a week. I also flushed residue out with water before each acid injection. I recommend three holes. I wasn't successful at the recent one, maybe because it had been getting worse for fifteen more years. This is way tougher than steel in steel. Good luck!
 
A small impact wrench is your best friend for these jobs as the hammering will help break the bolt loose. If uou can weld on a nut then work it back and forth with the impact is how I've had the best luck. Next would bena reverse drill bit as close to the bolt size as posible.
 
More info would help us help you. Broken off flush or broken off with some sticking up?? Heat and pouring ATF on it and then let it cool then heat again but not so much heat as to cause a melt down etc. If you can a washer and then a nut welded on after you have done some heating
 
A lot depends on why it broke.

You say oxidized, so I assume the bolt is stuck and twisted off trying to get it out.

If that is the case, chances are the end result will be drilling it out.

There are many methods to do this. The object is to drill STRAIGHT and exactly in the CENTER of the bolt!

If the part can be removed and put in a mill or drill press, that is the best method. If not, sometimes a drill fixture can be used. That is a block of steel with a known straight hole can be clamped or bolted over the broken bolt, then drilled through the fixture to keep the hole centered and straight.

The object is to drill all of the bolt out, leaving just the thread in the hole. Use a tap-drill chart to determine the size drill to use. Trying to use an easy out will only result in a broken easy out, that will have to be removed with a carbide end mill, a much worse situation. Easy outs have their place, but only in a bolt that was sheared off or over torqued, in other words, the broken bolt needs to be somewhat free to come out, not rusted, corroded or seized in the hole.

Once the center is drilled out, the remaining thread can sometimes be peeled out, but typically it is best to tap it out. If the hole is damaged, a thread repair coil can be used to restore the original thread, or drill and tap to the next larger size.
 
Best way is with a wire welder using shielding gas and an auto darkening helmet. Even broken off below surface level are easy. Wire welder lets you build up a series of spot welds till you get it high enough to weld a nut on. The auto darkening helmet lets you see that the wire will hit the steel bolt and not the aluminum. Additional good thing is the heat helps release the oxidation and lets penetrating fluid work in better.
 
(quoted from post at 09:26:02 03/25/17) A lot depends on why it broke.

You say oxidized, so I assume the bolt is stuck and twisted off trying to get it out.

If that is the case, chances are the end result will be drilling it out.

There are many methods to do this. The object is to drill STRAIGHT and exactly in the CENTER of the bolt!

If the part can be removed and put in a mill or drill press, that is the best method. If not, sometimes a drill fixture can be used. That is a block of steel with a known straight hole can be clamped or bolted over the broken bolt, then drilled through the fixture to keep the hole centered and straight.

The object is to drill all of the bolt out, leaving just the thread in the hole. Use a tap-drill chart to determine the size drill to use. Trying to use an easy out will only result in a broken easy out, that will have to be removed with a carbide end mill, a much worse situation. Easy outs have their place, but only in a bolt that was sheared off or over torqued, in other words, the broken bolt needs to be somewhat free to come out, not rusted, corroded or seized in the hole.

Once the center is drilled out, the remaining thread can sometimes be peeled out, but typically it is best to tap it out. If the hole is damaged, a thread repair coil can be used to restore the original thread, or drill and tap to the next larger size.
Click to expand...
agree 100%.
 
We have the freeze/release by loctite at work and it does work!! On our MP8 Mack engines, there are two 6 mm bolts in the turbo outlet pipe that can be stubborn. Use the freeze/release by the instructions and they've always come out for me.
 
it was broken flush and it's the belt tightening spring arm . took your advice and drilled it out to 1/4 . it was a 10 mm bolt . put a 1/4 copper tube in the hole heated and expanded it . let it cool then applied krill oil , waited and it came with an easy out . thanks again for everyone's input it worked out .
 
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