Case 580ck repair ?

Many years ago I bought a case 580ck loader backhoe from a local septic digger. It ran when it arrived. I tinkered with it a little (hoses and such). It usually started , mostly with starter fluid (now I am told that was a bad idea) and it spewed a lot of white smoke till it warmed up. Time went by and I could never get it started again (with all the either in the world) Someone told me maybe the fuel jelled and I sheared a pin in the fuel pump.? Now that I be semi retired the backhoe is on my bucket list. I am by no means a diesel mechanic,heck I'm not the greatest with these new fangled cars. However I was at one time a machinist, I do have tools, welders,drill press's,milling machine,lathes, and ten of everything else I haven't mentioned. I do have the original dealer service manual. Just browsing around I see rebuild services for fuel pumps and such. Course a new radiator is like $500. I guess my main question to those of you who might know is this gonna be a rabbit hole?? I paid 5k for the backhoe. My thinking is that I should somehow fidgure out if the engine is shot. It's like a 1968 model. How does one check compression on this critter. Is the case tool even available?? (#70-314 (d588) a few grand more ain't gonna kill me. Any thoughts or suggestions would be kindly appreciated. North Carolina is where I call home.

I would try real hard to make it run again, just to see whats going on. prob. didn't kill the rest of it with start fluid. check air cleaner--& Muffler!! for restriction----things like to build nests, etc in air intakes /exh. don't think you sheared a 'pump pin' but failure in that pump from sitting has a drive system that shears & stops fuel return flow. can't run.[plenty of discussion in archives about this] start figuring whats 'not working--

It has Stanadyne pencil injectors like a John Deere. You might be able to borrow an adapter to plug into an injector hole to check
compression, but . . You might ruin the injectors trying to pry them out.

No "pin" to shear in the injection pump. The pump driveshaft is designed to break in half if the pump turns too hard. Easy to see if that
has happened. Just pull the little timing window off, crank it over, and see if half of what you see is turning.

I would bet that all the piston rings, and maybe even the ring lands on the piston(s) are junk from all the starting fluid that was used on it. Usually when you need to use starting fluid all the time the engine probably needed to be rebuilt (low compression). If you can get the injectors out without breaking them put around 2 - 4 ounces of engine oil in each cylinder, and put the injectors back in. With the oil in the cylinders I would almost bet it will momentarily start, and run for a couple of seconds without the use of starting fluid.

Thanks for all the ideas. I'm kinda liking the "if you need starting fluid all the time the engines probably shot". However one should
never give up until all hope is lost (or its to frikin expensive) Removing one or all of the injectors,squirting in some oil, maybe
figuring out the compression,seems to be the most logical path. Since one says no shear pin,I look at window,drain everything,all new
filter,totally bleed all the air,then go from there.The case injector removal tool looks like a mini dentpuller with a special end.I
can probably make something like it as soon as I see what to grab. I assume all I need to do is uplift and possibly turn the injector
on the way out??? Any hidden surprises or flying pieces I need to know about???? Compression = ???. What PSI is acceptable. I am
guessing if I look at some of the compression test kits on the market, I can figure out how to jackleg something. I remember when I
worked on cars I had one with a rubber tip you put in spark plug hole. Push it in real hard and hold it while you cranked. Yes a
diesels gots lot more psi so I get a gorrilla to hold it tight. Thanx guys!

I don't know nuthin' and call me an idiot for even thinking this, but is it possible to loosen the bolts that hold in the injectors, then have a helper turn it over and let the compression (what there is of it) help push out the injectors? Perhaps pry a bit as well? Can you pull the intake manifold, put a good squirt of oil on each intake valve to suck in before cranking it to help seal the rings to boost compression to free the injectors?

I'll put my dunce cap back on and go sit in the corner now.

WW

White smoke was low compression so it likely needs rings. If you can make repairs without replacing everything "just because you're in there" then you can get it fixed. For instance if the sleeves are at or just past the wear limit new rings will work for you a long as you are likely to need them to. Some folks just can't leave well enough alone and new sleeves, head, crank, bearings, and camshaft won't be worth it.

Sounds like you are on the right path, one step at a time to verify it's getting fuel to the injectors. Once you know that you may want to pull it down and replace some parts.

Are the hoe stick pivots worn out?

Not sure what "hoe stick pivots wore out" means=? If it be the "hoe" then for some strange reason years ago I put in all new
bushings,shimmed out all the sideways play, and even replaced all the hoses. But that's another story. Unfortunately I am one of those
that just can't seem to leave well enough alone. However I am changing my ways. My new theory is will it outlast me. I love the
internet even if I am an old fart. U-tube has tons of videos on case 580ck tractors. One guy even has a video on injectors and shows
the $50 injectors he bought online. (New at that) Google found a compression adapter for like $35. If after going thru the entire fuel
system and verifying fuel to the injector , it does not start without either and without trashing the starter I will approach the
injectors. The popping them out via the compression seems to be an idea at least a few others on the net have stated. The oil thru the
intake valves is a neat idea.Maybe the intake gasket will survive enough to pursue the problem. My gut feeling is that the compression
is zilch. It's supposed to be over 400psi.(look out for flying objects when you use the pop em out with compression method).Not sure I
would just replace rings though. I see an overhaul kit that has sleeves, rings,pistons, and bearings for about $650.From what I can
tell this kit can be installed with the block still in the tractor. Inframe kit it's called = ??. I can't complain about 650 when the
cheapest radiator I can find is about $550. It only money and ya can't take it with ya. 70's and sunny the next few days so it's time
to attack the yellow beast. As always thanx for the advice.