Tractor trailer bridge

notjustair

Well-known Member
I'm selling a farmstead that has a trailer van on it for storage. It's an eyesore and no one wants it. I understand that the sides and roof give it rigidity, but could I remove those and use about half the length of the floor as a bridge over an old low water crossing? I just need a place for the gator to cross so we aren't talking much weight. I looked underneath and it doesn't have any beams running the length of it, but uses a wood floor and aluminum cross beams at about a foot on center. Without the wood there is no structure for the floor so I was going to use bridge planking as a "flooring" with the old van floor to contain it. If I bolted it down to the cross members would it have any more strength than just the planks by themselves? I'm just shade tree thinking this morning about what to do with the stupid thing and I've been meaning to have a way to get across that wash out.
 
Cut a hole in the back and set the whole thing across the creek,have a covered bridge, probably become a big tourist attraction and you can store the gator in it.
 
If you cut the walls off it will not carry any load or even hold itself up. We scrapped some aluminum ones 10 years ago or so. When we got the walls off they would just collapse. You could leave the walls on it and have your covered bridge but they are not very stiff the other way without the end and doors on them either.

Bolting the planks on the floor would be a little stiff but the old trailer floor would actually put weight on the planks. You would be stronger without the trailer floor.

Just cut it up using a demo saw and burn it where it sets. The rear axles have some value. There are guys that like using them for making bale trailers around here.
 
Leave 18"-2' of side and run an angle along the top to keep it rigid and an angle brace in all 4 corners at least to keep the sides upright and you should be ok. The floor in it is about as good as you can get for that. The object is to keep the sides from buckling or tipping.
 

I agree with TF, leave the roof in place, set the complete trailer in place then cut the front out. Add some good sized gussets in the upper corners to prevent the walls from collapsing side ways, similar to knee braces in a trussed barn,maybe add some short roof extensions on the ends to help keep rain off the floor and it should last for years.
Box trailers where designed to handle the weight of a small fork lift caring pallets of freight in and out so as long as the floor and cross members are in good condition your should handle that gator or a small tractor.
 
Several years ago the truck shop took all of the siding from a 45ft van trailer. It was sitting in the shop, on the wheels and landing gear,the floor had swayed till it almost touched the floor of the shop.
 

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