Dumb electrical question followup

notjustair

Well-known Member
I didn't give enough information earlier on the 35 Chevy. I was wondering if both filaments were on at high beam time.

The reason I asked is because both the low AND high beam are 31 candle power so there isn't an obvious "bright". The filaments are closely
parallel to each other. One may be above the other when turned after install, so that may be the high beam. The generator is only 12 amp so I'm betting that lots of you are right - it can't handle both and charge well. It does well charging and the only other electrical it has is a fuel gauge, but 12 amps isn't much. Especially at chore time when it idles part time.

The kicker is that the original headlight pans are the original silvered metal and have aged a good bit. I have had all of the wiring down to the sockets apart to cover the cloth wiring with shrink covering due to deterioration. Now I have to see if I can tell when the high beams are on to wire it. Eventually I will foot the bill for a $600 wiring harness, but right now they are backordered and I've got tires to put in her anyway. I guess I'll putter in the shop this afternoon.
 
I think David is on the right track. Brighter bulb, longer life, no worry of overload. Keep us posted, I've been following this thread to see how it all turns out.
 
In situation such as you have, the back of the lamp is parabolic in shape. That means that the filament which is located nearest the center of the lamp acts as the bright as the parabolic shape sends the rays out in a parallel horizontal fashion. The filament which sits slightly higher is actually the low beam, again because the shape of the lamp tends to concentrate the light rays more toward the ground.
 

My 38 Cheby Coupe really didn't give any "Real Light" to the road either way...maybe about what was safe at 30 MPH, anything more and you were over-running your headlights..!

I had to re-adjust the Headlights probably every 200 miles..they would vibrate Down..was no job to re-adjust them..

I cannot tell you about the lights using both Filaments, but it would make sense..then you can have a Whopping 62 Candle Power...!!!

Maybe you can install a Manual throttle control on the carb, to keep the engine spinning faster..

With that, I remember the original "Lights" on the JD "B"s...a FULL MOON was way better than the Headlights..!

With the Mounted (#226) Corn Picker BOTH Lights were mounted above the tractor and counting Rows was just about Impossible...even with them up high..!!
 
Mn Valley Man has it right. Switching from one filament to the other puts the hot spot in a different position in relation to the reflector, thus changing the angle of the beam.
To demonstrate this, shine a flashlight at a mirror, first straight on, then at an angle. Watch how the beam moves. Or even look at a mirror, same result.
Your truck should have a manual throttle knob. Pull it just a tad to kick up the idle speed & keep voltage up.
I remember my dad's 39 Chev car, had the bulb style lights too. Somewhere he got a kit to convert to sealed beams, really made a difference. Maybe some outfit such as J C Whitney still sells such a kit.

HTH

Willie
 
Just to be practical when I was in my teens got hold of my grandads everready sealed beem campers flashlight. Had the red flasher on the back. Had the big battery under the handle with the screw on terminal knobs. I used to stick that baby out the window when you were harvesting at night.
 
There is no vehicle that I know of that ever used both filaments at the same time for high beams.

The low beam filament is shielded to direct the light towards the road and away from oncoming traffic.

The high beam filament is centered in the reflector and unshielded.

Looking at your dimmer switch, you can plainly see that your choices are one or the other but not both.

Along the way, there have been many changes in legal requirements for vehicle lighting. At one point, only sealed beam headlights were allowed. Somewhere around 1980 they began to allow separate bulb and reflector. Before sealed beams, there were quite an assortment of bulb and reflector devices. Also, at some point, there were federal regulations on the allowed candle power of headlights.

Personally, I have not kept up with the regulations, but at no time were the high and low filaments allowed to illuminate together TO THE BEST OF MY KNOWLEDGE.
 
I'm going to have to take a picture tomorrow. I put in a replacement bulb today and looked closely at both the original and replacement. There's no difference there other than the new bulb has a more rounded glass profile. I don't think that has a bearing.

The two filaments are about 1/8 inch apart. They sit in the center of the old silvered reflector and actually aren't even parallel with the ground - they are cocked slightly. They can't be "off" in any way and there isn't one that's any farther toward the top of the reflector to be a low beam. The reflector has a tang that grounds it that fits in only one slot (cannot be out of place), the bulb ears are offset so it can only be installed one way, and the lens does not appear to be cut in any way to benefit the beam. It has me totally stumped. I knew I was in trouble when I put in some new wires and I hit both wires and couldn't tell that either was brighter. I guess on an old grain truck it was the thought of high beams that counted.
 
Brite Box sells a box with relays that plugs into headlight system hooks direct to battery, takes load off of headlight switch and turns both elements on when lights are on bright.
 

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