A dumb electrical question

notjustair · Jan 19, 2017

As a general rule, are older vehicle "bright" lights both headlight filaments turned on? My old Chevy has a floor button but it needs serious work or a new one if I can find one (1935). I was going to run some new wires and just wire the switch to run both filaments for now so I could have bright lights for choring. I'm betting the brights wouldn't bother the cows. It's six volt. I don't think I run the risk of any of them flashing me. There are calves in most lots anyway - they wouldn't do that in front of the children.

Bob · Jan 19, 2017

Only one filament is on at a time.

If you choose to run both be sure the switch and wiring can handle the Amps.

old · Jan 19, 2017

Bob is right high beam and low beam are not both run at the same time they are different watt filaments in the bulb to get the low and high

David G · Jan 19, 2017

I had thought it was one or the other filament

leroy in ne · Jan 19, 2017

per chev parts book-1952, group 2.459 Switch, Headlamp Dimmer, part number 1997008, all 1929-1952. chevs of the 40's catalog shows thru 1954. HOpe this helps on finding one Leroy

John T · Jan 19, 2017

Best I recall on those it wasn't operating both filaments that constituted HIGH BEAM it was their individual location that determined higher versus lower aiming. NO WARRANTY its been too long lol

John T

Cliff(VA) · Jan 19, 2017

There were LOTS of those switches on ebay. Old, new, NOS take your pick.

Cliff(VA)
Dimmer switches on ebay

Tramway Guy · Jan 19, 2017

Both filaments at once will almost certainly shorten lamp life due to the extra heat.

Russ from MN · Jan 19, 2017

Like others have said the wiring might not be heavy enough for both filaments, and if you are using a generator it might not keep up and you might end up with a dead battery. On vehicles with the flash-to-pas option I think both filaments are on, but that's only momentary. If you need more light switch it to 12 volt and put some led's on it!

BushogPapa · Jan 19, 2017

If it is old enough to make you trade Power for Windshield Wipers ( Vacuum), you may not even have "Sealed Beams"...!!

They were like that until about 1952 or 1953...

Those were the days when you may not have been able to keep 20 mph and SEE out the windshield...!!!

Before 1952, the engines did NOT have "Drilled Cranks" and used "Dippers" for oiling the Rods.. trying to run a steady 45 or 50 ( at MOST) was

about all those would stand...!

The 1952, on up have pressure to a Drilled Crank and can be run much Harder...( RPM-wise..).

As for just plain old "Power", that old '51 we had would take 100 bushel of Soybeans up the hill toward Lewis Center from 315 and NEVER drop out of High Gear...it may have been still in High gear, but you were sunning 13 MPH..dropping a gear and you topped the hill at about 10 MPH..

and we thought that was pretty good..it was a lot faster than taking wagons and a tractor...!!

David G · Jan 19, 2017

I remember those days, wipers would stop when accelerating, then go like heck when stopping.

gene bender · Jan 19, 2017

You have hi-beam and low-beam they do not lite at the same time. If you have batt voltage at the lite you will have plenty of lite.

Leroy · Jan 19, 2017

Your truck may have only one bulb for both low and high beams, 2 filiments or it bight have seperate bulbs or it might be like the Farmalls that for dim just put erss power to the one bulb for dim.

leroy in ne · Jan 19, 2017

NAPA interchange, part number ECH DS101. Echlin Ignition product line. $18.90

Steve@Advance · Jan 19, 2017

Is there enough of the original wiring and switch to determine how it was wired?

Think you will be beyond the 12 amp generator if you power both at the same time.

Speaking of the generator...

Have you checked the numbers on the generator? It may not be the original, may have been already replaced with a higher amp.

Steve@Advance · Jan 19, 2017

Leroy, that pretty much proves that it's one or the other, not both.

That same switch carried over from the socket type lamps to the sealed beam, which came out in 1940. Never seen a sealed beam that ran both elements at the same time.

jeffcat · Jan 19, 2017

Being older you had a Low filament and a High filament. Changes the point of focus in the glass headlite housing. Be really carefull going from 6 to 12 volt. If you have mechanical gauges you are fine. If they are electrical you will fry them. You will need a little gizmo called a voltage stablizer. It will run your gauges at around 7 volts. I am sure other guys on here can give you more information if you need it. Chevy in 1941 was electrical gauges already. My dads 1/2 ton pickup.

MARK ROBKE · Jan 19, 2017

Bob and Tramway Guy have it right.If both filaments are lit at the same time,the bulb will get very hot,and it may be too many amps,both for the wiring and the generator.Mark

BushogPapa · Jan 20, 2017

Yea...made it interesting...!!!

Well, I guess you could reach up and move one with a lever....!

HOW did we ever survive NO Turn Signals, a Starter button on the FLOOR and a Dimmer switch on the FLOOR too...!!

Oh yea and NO Seat Belts either...!!

We sure must have been lucky...!!

Wheres Waldo · Jan 20, 2017

My '55 GMC Pickup was like that.

A dumb electrical question

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Similar threads