64 JD1010RUS value

Busto

New User
Hi! Im hoping for some input on a 64 JD1010 Im looking at, theyre asking $3,000. I intend to use it for brush mowing, trails and food plots, maybe more in the future. I fix my own junk, so an old machine doesnt bother me, I actually like this thing, quite clean and simple...

The owner says hes owned it for about 7 years, uses it to mow a large piece of property. Says he is having issues mowing without power steering and has switched to a newer kubota.

Owner says he has paperwork for a head rebuild from the previous owner, and had the generator rebuilt about 2 years ago. Owner says it runs and operates good, that its a solid tractor.

I asked if it smokes, he says it will if hes in tall grass or tight turns while cutting. He says he has been having trouble with rust in the carb and filter, says it probably needs a fuel tank.

I havent seen it run yet, figured Id get a little input from them what know before I take it any farther... Any advice?
 
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I love my 1960 1010 industrial crawler. That being said - if something major ever breaks I will likely not fix it. 1010/2010 series have
very little connection to anything else Deere built and parts support has near always been terrible. I regard the industrial 1010 line much
better designed then the agricultural too. No way would I ever pay $3000 for a 1010 farm-tractor and plan on using it as a work-machine.
1010 gas is also in a class by itself and has around the same cubic inches as a 420, two-cylinder engine. 1010 diesel shares bore and stroke
with a 2010 gas engine and is a lot bigger.
 
Looks OK, repainted, mismatched rear tires, needs some cosmetic work, but appears
solid...has optional coffee maker, lol. Ben
 
Any advise yes RUN and RUN Fast. The 1010 and 2010 are the 2 worst tractor JD ever made and parts are hard to find and if you do find parts they cost you an arm and leg. Ya if there running there not to bad but the moment they break down and it will you best have a fat wallet and a lot of time to do things since they are also a pain in the back sides to work on. I have one and it is only a parts machine and it was that when we got it and if I had known then what I know now it NEVER would have ended up have come here. So RUN AND RUN FAST plus $3000 is about 3 times to high even if it runs
 
Industrials share VERY LITTLE parts with the rest of their tractors. If something breaks, there's a good chance you'll be on your own to fix it or live without it.

I busted the steering rod on my oliver industrial, and had to make another on my own because no one had ever seen one like it, it was only used for that tractor and only a few of that tractor were made.
 
I have bought a couple in similar condition. Paid $2000 for one and $3000 for the other. Made money on both. A neighbor bought a new one in 1962 and still has it. It had some problems when new. He repaired it and it was a pretty good tractor. It put out a lot of tobacco and baled a lot of hay. The 1010 was a better tractor than the 2010. I have had good luck with them. I didn't notice the one you are looking at. I would look for a later one. The 1961 and 62 models had the shifter on the dash, and the 1963 and newer had the shifter on the transmission like the 430.
 
Run. There are so many red flags there it
is painful. I'd find something else. An
Allis wd or wd45 has live pto. A deere 40
utility or a ih 350 utility would be
better....actually anything other than a
deere 1010 is better.
 
There are chronic and expensive known issues with 1010, the ones that did not have trouble seem to be OK, but seems to be the minority.

No reason to take a chance on a tractor you do not already own.
 
(quoted from post at 17:16:29 01/11/17) There are chronic and expensive known issues with 1010, the ones that did not have trouble seem to be OK, but seems to be the minority.

No reason to take a chance on a tractor you do not already own.

Fair enough. I hate when I dont get the answer I want :?

Ill keep looking. What do yall think of a 79 belarus 250a??? :roll:
 
Most of the major problems were updated by 1964, but they are still an orphan design that is expensive to repair. At $3000 that one will be there a long time. In $3000 utility tractors I would look for JD 1020, 2020, Ford 2000, 4000 or Massey 35 to 165. Three point hitch, live PTO, live hydraulics and power steering are all handy.
 
Yes we can be. Back last year in Aug or so I picked up a Case VAC for $300. Ya I had to clean the points and replace the fuel line and put battery in it but tha twas all I did to have a good running tractor. Or like the IH 300U we got. Payed $100 for it and I had it running the same day I got it. Ya you do not find many that way unless you know what your doing when it comes to making them run again. But at least 50% of the tractor I have had did not run when I got them and most did not cost much to make run well
 
(quoted from post at 17:37:00 01/11/17) Most of the major problems were updated by 1964, but they are still an orphan design that is expensive to repair. At $3000 that one will be there a long time. [b:3e27493744]In $3000 utility tractors I would look for JD 1020, 2020, Ford 2000, 4000 or Massey 35 to 165. Three point hitch, live PTO, live hydraulics and power steering are all handy.[/b:3e27493744]

Thanks! Thats a place to start at least
 
I paid $500 for my Oliver 1365 2WD and drove it on the trailer,that was about 10 years and 1,000 hrs later I'm still using it.Paid $550 for a David Brown 990 that ran at an auction last Spring.
 
Yep being in the right place at the right time and taking your time looking is the key to a good deal. Also knowing what is wrong and how to fix one sure helps get a good price. That is why I try to buy none running tractor since I know they will be a whole lot less then ones that run and most of them takes maybe a battery and cleaning the points and maybe cleaning the carb
 
As others have said the 1010 was not John Deere's greatest tractor. I bought one a few years ago that had sat at least 15 years. This past fall I decided that I was going to get it going. It had a dead cylinder and I found an engine for it. It was going to be a weekend project to just swap the engine. How hard can that be? Three + months. Prior to the weekend I pulled the radiator and took it to get flushed and leak checked. Well $350 later I had a new core in the radiator. We pulled the old engine and so far no problem doing that. After that the problems begin. The input shaft in the trans does not rotate. At this time I'm in too deep to get my money back in the engine alone, so I learn how to rebuild the trans. First I replaced some of the bearings and the shaft is still locked up.. Trust me it is a pain trying to take the input shaft out of the trans. After removing and installing the shaft a few time I figure out that some on the gears are suppose to rotate on the shaft. After getting the trans back together I get the engine install and could not get it to fire. I had asked for advice on here and most said to run away from it or scrap it. After about a week of trial and error I finally got the engine to run. I forgot to tell you that when I bought the tractor one on the tires were burnt off as it had sat next to a building that had burned down. I found a mix matched pair of tires and replaced the one and sold the other. Well about the time I got the tractor running I noticed that the tire that did not need replacing now was cracked and had a large bulge in it. This one is a row crop with 36 inch tires that are hard as he!! to find. I finally talked a tire shop into repairing the tire. After other issues like repairing all of the light I was pretty happy with what I had. I drove it out of the shop and it died. The gas tank bottom has a layer of crud. I'm really not sure how I'm going to solve this problem as the steering goes through the gas tank and it is next to impossible to get every thing cleaned out of it. If I had to do it again I probably would as it was saved from the scrap pile. If I took the advice from most of the guys on here I would have run away before putting any money into it. I would recommend you buying the tractor only if you can afford a money pit as every time you do something it is going to be another $100 bill. As for me it has been a great learning curve and that is worth a lot in it self. Also, it gave my future son-in-law and me some good quality time together. Personally I would look for a different tractor that has a higher rating. The one that you are showing pictures of does not have a tach, how do you know how many hours are on it? As for your question at the value, I would think you should not be paying anything over $2000 and only if the gas tank can be used. If you buy the tractor, be sure to check the trans for water.
 
I just bought a JD 2010 a few weeks ago for $1700. The head had a new design for the seal to the block and as with many new things, it didn't go real well. Mine has been rebuilt, and I have the shop invoice. The tractor drive, runs and shifts fine, but I take to heart that should something go sideways, it's going to be problematic. Lets hope nothing goes bad while I have it.

I like the tractor, the shifting gets a little tricky, but I'm getting used to it. Has great power steering, and really nice torque. I have the LP fuel option and I think that gives it more power over the gas unit due to higher comp ratio, but they are rated the same.
 
Funny how one common thread among all the guys who now own a 1010 or 2010 and are having issues are the same guys I and others have told to run away from them.
So I'm going to start telling everyone to buy them up !! Buy forest buy !
 
Here is my first-year 1960 1010 loader with ripper and I love it. I got it from the original owner who had bought it new. It was in a
fire and ever piece or rubber or aluminum was gone. Local Deere dealer gave a price of something like $10,000 to fix it. So the old man
went out and bought a 350 to take its place. He told me he liked the 1010 better. I paid $2000 for it 14 years ago. I yanked the engine
apart, regrooved the pistons and put in Hastings repair shims with new rings. Resealed the sleeve deck. Worst part was finding a new
distributor since the old one was melted. I finally found one on a Deere 4020 gas engine that fit fine although I had to convert it from 6
cylinder to 4 cylinder.

I have used the heck out of it for 14 years and it has never skipped a beat. I love it. 1010, in some ways, was better then the 350 that
followed it. I just hope the hydraulic reverser never goes, because I doubt I'd fix it.

I don't buy all the 1010 horror stories. I just would not pay big bucks for one. For a wheel tractor that size, you get much more tractor
with something like a Ferguson TO35 Deluxe.
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You can "not buy" the 1010/2010 problems all you want, but my uncle owned one until it had transmission problems. When he finally did find USED parts to fix it, which was near-impossible, they were going to cost more than the value of the tractor, not including the labor to install them. He ended up trading the tractor at scrap value on something newer and more reliable.
 
Old JD dealer told me "JD never made a good 1010 farm tractor". His advice do NOT buy one. The word not was a lot louder than the rest of his sentence.
 
When I worked at fertilizer plant I drove their 2020 and from that I would not own one of them, The 65 & 68 Ford 4000 that I had were day and night better. Back quite a few years before the local Deere dealer closed when one of the owners got killed in a skid steer accident the lead mechanic on his own farm had a 1010 that he put in a 45 combine engine and that was his plowing tractor. That says a good Deere mechanic did not think they were a bad tractor or he would have had something different. He was putting out around 50 HP with it. Only thing I see wrong is the price.
 
Don't walk, run from any Belarus. Never find someone to work on one if you could get parts.
 
I worked for three Deere dealers -from 1969 to 1992. We certainly gave those warnings about 2010 wheel tractors. No so much with the 1010s.
 
i appreciate the info (im j/k on the belarus). Im going to back off of the 1010. If the guy decides to track me down i might insult him on the price, but only because i believe i could gamble with something like $1000 for it.

Ive expanded my search and found a couple wd45s, massey 50s and some fords to look into, all for 3k or under.

In the future ill be able to try and find better deals, but short term id like something working
 
The family farm has one brought new in 1962. Somewhere along the line my dad had to make a gear are repair a gear for the transmission other that that its been trouble free. I never liked it but my uncle thought it was the beast thing since sliced bread.

It will sale and he will get 3K for it a sucker will come along. I have know folks that brought one and were never happy with them. I have a customer that has one he LUV's it. Most tractor do not see the work that folks put them thru back then so if its was in great condition and I felt comfortable with it, its only 3K it should mow grass.

For the record I don't plan to by one are any green tractor far as that goes.
 

I have worked on 3 of them.. all were bad news and paid 3 times what they were worth to get them running again... but not running well as there were still other problems.

Better than a push lawnmower, but not better than a riding lawnmower.

As to belaurus,, there a lots of them down here.. all non running. probably could get them for free. Parts can be very difficult as the above to find used.. much less new. Other models out there that run nearly forever, lots of them everywhere, and some even have aftermarket parts due to popularity available world wide at one third of the dealer price.

these "other" tractors cost a bit more, run a LOT better, and will still sell for even more later when your kids sell them after your gone.
 

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