Hydraulic cylinders repair replace?

I have a hydraulic cylinder that is termed a tie rod type. 1 inch shaft. About 20 inches long.
I broke the shaft off where it connects to the tie rod clamp. Called two local shops and they said it's not worth it to repair.
As anyone ordered new rod from mfg and installed themselve?
Question 2.
In searching for new cylinder I see welded cylinders and tie rod cylinders. Wedged seem to be cheaper. What is advantage of each?

Buy a new one. You asked a repair man for advice on fixing it and were told that it was not worth fixing so why are you procrastinating?

When you state that it is 20 inches long is that the total length or the stroke? A one inch rod, twenty inches long would be quite flimsy for a hydraulic cylinder.

I have two terramites, over 24 hydraulic cylinders. Some are like problem children. I bought some cylinders form International Hydraulics for less than two rebuilds cost me at a hydraulic shop, $150. One cylinder I had to pay over $450 from factory because of the location of the ports I couldn't use an aftermarket cylinder.

Without seeing what you have, it's possible you may have a unique end on your rod and you will have to get a factory replacement.

I also found a hydraulic shop a few miles away where I can buy all the O rings I need to rebuild my cylinders for around $20.

When I have a problem child, a cylinder that I'm having issues with, I've discovered there is a cause and effect relationship between parts on the outriggers are worn out, stabilizers are not being held in position, putting a stress on cylinder, even cracking welds on cylinders.

Then I have cylinders that have yet to cause a problem. Then I discovered two cylinders leaking just sitting in cold pole barn.

Hope I've helped. If it's possible to use International Hydraulics, google them even call them, to get an aftermarket cylinder and get someone to weld a special end on it. Good luck.
geo

If it is broke out farther than it goes back into the seals than I would try to weld that end or a new end back on. You have nothing to loose at this point.

I would try to weld it. I have welded solid power transmission shafts by making a jig to hold them straight and grinding them down to a point and take my time welding them up. Nothing to lose by trying. Done correctly, a good weld is stronger than the material on each side of it.
Richard in NW SC

If the cylinder needs a new ram (shaft) then yes a new one might be a better way to go.

If it is like others have mentioned and the tie rod is broke off the end, just weld it back on.

Pull the ram all the way out. Wrap the ram with wet rags to keep splatter off the chrome finish. This also
keeps the seals cool and undistorted while welding.

Welded cylinders are cheaper because of less materials and less time to build. Down side is they are a little tougher
to rebuild if that becomes needed. Strength wise they should be equal whether welded or tie rod.

Gary

I would look at surpluscenter dot com. They have very good prices and a huge selection of cylinders, and the one I bought for the fast hitch on my Farmall 300 has been great so far.
Zach

I have rebuilt a bunch or cylinders. They often have underlying issues not seen by naked eye, like the barrel needs honed, the chrome needs polished and that is all I can say for that. Cylinders are economical to rebuild, but the problem is that taking it to a shop, the shop has to stand behind it, even if the barrel is not round, the seals give fits, the chrome is pitted or scratched or dented, and a lot of them simply don't want to accept the liability. Seals often tear going in and create more time, more parts investment, Without seeing it, I can't say. I bet I would at least tear it down. Go from there. If you aren't round, if you aren't smooth, correct it. If the end that broke needs welded, keepin mind that to weld it, especially if you are in an area that took some oil to it, the iol needs to be burned off orthe weld won't take. This requires heat from a torch and the cylinder must be torn down. Good luck.

Whatever you do, before using the machine again, verify that the lever it's attached to isn't bottoming in the clevis at the end of the stroke and flexing the rod at the threads.

In my experience, cylinder rods seldom break unless something like that is going on.

Hi Zach, If you don't mind me asking, Which Cylinder did you end up using for the fast hitch ? Do you have a Row Crop, or Utility ? Thanks...Tom