Rusty Brake Lines

Duane WI · Dec 16, 2016

I replaced the battery on my daughters 2003 Olds Alero. This is her college beater car. Under the battery is the master brake controller for the antilock brakes. The brake lines are really rusty. Not surface rust but the flaking off rust. Called a local garage I sometime use to repair my cars when I don't have the time or desire. Told me in the $400 range for all new brake lines. I actually think that is reasonable. Now I have to decide if I want to do it or just pay up. Somehow working a day or two in my unheated shop just doesn't sound like much fun. So far the brakes a working fine but having it done will make me sleep better at night.

K Effective · Dec 16, 2016

A coworker, former pro auto mechanic, just told me he needs to replace ALL of the lines on his GMC pickup, about the same age. Said there was a coating issue, causing them all to corrode to failure.

He ordered a new set of pre-bent in stainless steel, seems it was under $200. Some of those long ones may be hard to fish into place, and we both laughed at the chances of getting the old fittings out of the rear cylinders!

As expected, his heated home garage is full of projects, boats, motorcycles, etc. The truck has to wait.

Super-H-Mike · Dec 16, 2016

That quote is certainly reasonable. That is an ugly job. My 2nd least favorite job, right behind replacing rusty gas lines. I would have him do it.

JRSutton · Dec 16, 2016

man, bad place for anything, let alone a brake controller (under the battery). I'm not a mechanic - I get nervous with "newer" cars. I'm wondering if you need the computer to bleed the brakes properly on that one. Maybe somebody here can speak intelligently about it.

Either way, $400 doesn't sound too bad to avoid that work. I find brake lines always look easy at first, then you realize your hands don't fit, lines snap, parts crack, suddenly you're replacing more than you ever anticipated.

Of course... that happens to the pros too and their prices always seem to go up over their estimates.

But given the cold - I'd be real tempted to spend the money myself.

Mike(NEOhio) · Dec 16, 2016

That's not too bad a price. Daughter at college, you want it safe. I just had all the line on my 250 SD replaced, $750. It's a '99 with 225K. A job I would have done myself a few years ago but now at 67 and this weather? UH-UH.

jeffcat · Dec 16, 2016

No question, go for it!

showcrop · Dec 16, 2016

I agree that $400.00 sounds like a very good price. I just think of all those fittings that won't come out. This could be a good excuse to put heat in your shop.

JayinNY · Dec 16, 2016

Which ever way you go, use that poly armor coated brake tubing, my friend put it on my truck, I guess it lasts longer and you can bend it by hand, I thought I had a small piece to show you. See how it bends so easy? I just rebent it 3 times by hand. Easy to work with.

gears · Dec 16, 2016

If it were mine I'd do it myself, buy a coil of coated line, bag of new fittings amd be done. I do side work to help friends out - last month friend's kid needed all 4 lines on his impala. Shop wanted $400+ and he didn't have the cash. By the time I was done it cost him $250. I'd rather he had taken it in.

Jeff NWOH · Dec 16, 2016

Hey Jay,

I believe what you have there is copper nickel alloy brake line. It does bend very easy and is supposed to last pretty much forever. It's the only line I use any more.

JayinNY · Dec 16, 2016

Your right, I just asked him, it's nickel coated!

Mark - IN. · Dec 16, 2016

I did the lines on my '95 Ram 2500 4x4 for under $200 for the pre-bent lines themselves that I ordered on line through ebay. A couple of years ago I did the same for my '96 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4. In both cases, I had lines break at inopportune times. Very inopportune times. Nothing like applying the breaks hard, hear a pop, then have the brake pedal hit the floor. In any event, if you see that kind of rust and corrosion...

I don't mean to tell you your business, but while you're under there, check the flexible hoses as well as rear wheel cylinders if it has them. Shoes and pads too. If you're going to take the time to change the brake lines...

Mark

Bob · Dec 16, 2016

I'm all for doing it yourself, but some vehicles with ABS will need to go to the stealership or a independent shop with a high-dollar scan tool to effectively bleed the brakes after you get the lines replaced.

jimg.allentown · Dec 16, 2016

The part that would put me off is bubble flares. Not easy to make WELL. Easy enough to make, but not easy to make WELL. And, they use them in a number of places - like in the ABS system and in proportioning valves.

Hobo,NC · Dec 16, 2016

That job done right is a days work plus material... If he rolls his on and close to factory mounting that's a deal... Even if he can buy new pre-bent lines install them and bleed the system out he's not making much if any....

I would not touch it for less than $800 and up and it would not make me mad if you turned me down...

Pre-bent are becoming more available and inviting when you consider labor and materials. I ordered pre-bent for a Toyota they came to me wadded up in a mess I would have been better off rolling my own.

Mike M · Dec 16, 2016

If you trust that guy I agree that is a good price to do it. Brake lines are miserable to do.

Bob Harvey · Dec 16, 2016

If they are going to replace ALL the lines - go for it. Someone to take responsibility.

Super-H-Mike · Dec 16, 2016

That black or green coated poly bends well too, but I find it hard to flare for whatever reason.

Sprint 6 · Dec 16, 2016

GM makes a prebent kit for the 99-2006 trucks that is nylon coated. They usually cost about $115 for the set. He will regret the stainless,
had a customer bring me a stainless set, never again. Stainless is too stiff to run prebent and hard to get the flares to seal because
stainless is so hard it won't "bite".

JDEM · Dec 17, 2016

I had to make a bunch of bubble-flares when making new brake-lines on my 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan. I bought a bubble-flare tool kit and made them with no issues at all. I did not find it any more difficult then making a standard inverted double-flare. I used rust-proof nickel-copper tubing (cunnifer). Using steel seems to be a waste of time.

JDEM · Dec 17, 2016

I'd make sure they use brake-lines that are rust-proof or at least rust-resistant. I see many shops using the standard premade lines like NAPA sells and they rust out in two years.

Bryan inIowa · Dec 17, 2016

amen! Brake lines are a pain to do,but we have been seeing one job per week here . Copper nickle line is pretty slick. I keep hundred foot rolls on hand . Matercool Hyd flaring tool and bench mount tool make quick work of flaring . 300 min and 600 -700 is not out of line .

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