Case 1835 C with TM20 start question

eremoao · Dec 9, 2016

Well, to catch you up to what I have done. Had the small ground burn up on me from the motor to the frame. Fixed that then thought I'd check the cables. Found a bad cable so replaced both positive and negative battery cables. When I finished that, found that when I tried to connect the positive cable, the motor would fire off even without the key turned off. Found that a wire was grounding itself and fixed that. Now I can;t get it to fire. I have since discovered that the small wire coming off the small terminal directly under the larger positive cable is loose. Not very good with this, but I am figuring it has something to do with my problem. I figure this wire supplies hot to the coil, is that right? I have to pull that starter to tighten it up as it is at such an angle where you can't get on the screw head. Just wanted to double check before I go through all the hassle of doing this. Need to do it all from the rear as I can't move the ROPS out of the way. My next question is it okay to fire it up without the radiator connected just for a few seconds to make sure I have corrected the problem. Thanks for the help.

Dieseltech · Dec 9, 2016

I've run engines at least five minutes before at idle speed with no coolant, no problem. I do remove the water pump belt though so it doesn't run with no coolant at the seal..

DENNIS MIN · Dec 9, 2016

eremao,

I'll second that opinion that you can start, run, heck even operate that engine for a brief bit of time. Keep in mind that the heat has got to go somewhere...

I don't run engines without coolant, but if I had to I would to, briefly, to see if everything checks out.

I run my personal watercraft for a few minutes to get the water out, just like all the marinas. A few moments will not hurt a thing.

D.

Case 1835 C with TM20 start question

eremoao

Member

Dieseltech

Well-known Member

DENNIS MIN

Member

Similar threads