4020 24v drain

buckeyefrmr

New User
First, I'm sure this has been answered before, but I couldn't find it in a search. I have been drafted to help get this tractor going to chisel this fall.

Recently the 4020 (67 or 68?) has been burning up solenoids. According to the starter shop, it's low voltage issues. There is an issue somewhere that I need to identify because the batteries will drain over a few days. Recent new batteries, generator, regulator, starter.

Today I was checking voltages and both batteries were at 12.4. Once I turned the key, they dropped to < 7 each. Is that normal? If not, what is pulling them down? Just got the normal dead battery click when trying to start. Thank you in advance for the help!
 
I can't help with your problem, but I have had several and the best thing I did was change them over to 12 volts. Makes thing a lot simpler. I have 2 66 models now, both are 12 volts.
 
Hello buckeyefrmr,

You must have a big drain to bring those batteries down. You need to start by charging them fully, and leave them unhooked for the same amount of time it takes them to go down now. They should have at least 12.6 volts at 80*F. after they have been charged.
If they stay up, then hook them up and see if you get a spark. But starting at 12.4 volts and reading < then 7 volts? Either you have a huge drain or a real bad connection,

Guido..
 
It is often the battery hooked to the side of the starter,not to the solenoid, that has the drain.That is caused by the dust from starter wear forming a sleight ground from the fields to the frame.If both of your batteries are discharging,you have another low draw.
 
Hello MikeinKy

We had 24v systems in on highway vehicles that required a series parallel switch. Is that the way the tractor is wired? I worked on a 4020 for my farmer friend in chassis overhaul, but did not pay attention to the battery system,

Guido.
 
Will they start it after being charged? For the voltage to drop that much by only turning the switch on sounds like bad batteries. It is possible to get bad new batteries, can be a manufacturing defect that affects entire lots of them.

If they are still under warranty, be worth a shot at charging them up, taking them in for a load test.

The best way to check for parasitic drain is with a multi meter, using the amp test. If there is any electronic equipment on the tractor, the old spark test, or test light in series can give false positive readings. With an amp test, you are seeing real world conditions. Sometimes electronics will show a draw at first, then within a few seconds drop to 0 amps, or a very low draw that would take months to cause discharge.
 
My point is that a battery that gets sucked down to 7V is not much of a battery, something else has to be getting really hot if voltage is dropping elsewhere.

We did burn up a starter on 4020 messing around with bad batteries, changed them and no starters since.
 
Even with current drain/low batteries "burning up solenoids" is NOT the norm with a 24 Volt 4020.

As to the other posters GUESSING and/or wondering if it has a series/parallel switch, it does NOT, and with the center-grounded 24V system normal vehicle electrical logic doesn't apply!

I suggest surfing down to the DEERE-specific Board lower down on the page and posting all the info you can, I/they will try to help you.
 

1st place to look for electrical drain on JD 24 volt system is inside starter for "brush dust". You can remove starter end cap for an inspection for dusting. Next place to look for drain is voltage regulator. IMHO if tractor wasn't destined to be a "restored tractor" I'd suggest to change it over to 12 volt system and be done with 24 volts.
 
Dear Buckeye, Call Richard Hain who is the publisher of "Green Magazine". Ask him for the issue of the magazine which has my first article on the 24 Volt System. The issue is November 2012 or 2013. The article(with pictures) shows how to do systematic drain tests as well as proper charging voltages along with acceptable voltage drop tests for the starting circuit. The article has been criticized on this forum, but mostly by those who have not read it!
 
Just out of frustration I just remove a right battery cable when I park it then I never have that low battery issue as long as the charging system is working. Most starter shops do not understand the 24 volt thing and when you tell them about the dust they give you that foggy look.
 
(quoted from post at 06:34:45 10/25/16) The article has been criticized on this forum, but mostly by those who have not read it!

My understanding is the reason the article has been criticized is because the article contains some untruths about the type of ground a JD 24 volt system has. I heard article was authored by a "history professor"not an electrical engineer.
 
The starter is usually the main cause of a bad drain. There is an extra field coil post on the side of the housing that a battery cable hooks directly to. This cable keeps this field coil energized all the time so brush dust and even worse moisture will cause it to go to ground.
 
Hey there Tom43 aka Barack aka Joe Mindy, good to see you back. Looks like you're not barred from the site as you once claimed you were.

Take care, God Bless and best wishes

John T
 
Thank you to everyone!!! I have been reading a lot about moving to a 12v and that is probably in the future. The batteries are getting charged and I'll load test to eliminate that variable. Again, for my first post, you guys were a big help and I plan to contribute whenever I can.
 
I learned a lot about 24 volt 4020 ,,, maybe could a saved mine to 24 volt but I switched to 12volt ,and never lookt bak,. I do agree the starter was draining my batteries ,,.
 

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