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pole barn inulation

C

cdv

Member
looking to do my side walls now that my heat system is done ,, have double bubble on the roof thinking the same for the sides or go with fiberglass just looking for some ideas thanks cdv
 
Double bubble has no insulation factor you need fiberglass but you dont want the fiberglass touching the tin because of condensation.
 
We built a new shop last year. We used the sheets of foam board insulation that was two inches thick out again the metal then we had 1 1/2 inches of spray foam to seal up everything. It is great you can't even here the wind blow. We have 18 inches of cellulose in the ceiling and have 2 inches of foam board under our concrete. In the summer we even air condition it. It is a 32x40 with 16ft side walls. Tom
 
Fiberglass will become a water soaked mess when in contact with the outer steel.
Spray foam works great, and seals any air leaks. Spray in about 3+ inches and leave an air gap and install your inner wall, which needs to be fire rated.
Loren
 
I had my shed sprayed with 2 inches of a closed cell (water tight) foam. 2" above the ceiling tin and 2" inside the exterior tin. Then I lined the inside with tin. It is so tight it is very effective. A small dehumidifier keeps my shed dry in the most humid days. I have thought about adding fiber glass above the foam in the ceiling. Paul
 
We used bubble stuff below a steel roof to keep it from sweating. I read the label and it does not state an "R" value so it must not be much of an insulator.
 
I like the vinyl faced metal building insulation. It comes in rolls 4' to 6' wide. https://www.lthsteelstructures.com/insulation
 
Reflective foil supposedly doesn't work well unless it has at least 3/4" of space. I stapled foil bubble insulation on the inside of the 2x6' wall purlins, so that gave it 1-1/2" gap to the outside metal siding. I did that mostly to reflect the outside heat in the summer. I then added 6" fiberglass. It heats and cools easily. I can cool a 30 x 40 x 12 shop with a 12,000 Btu window air conditioner.
I am in Eastern Nebraska.
a238698.jpg
 
Sorry, but that bubble wrap stuff is a joke. Yes, it is marginally better than no insulation at all, but as someone else said, you won't find a published R value for it. The manufacturer will only claim an R-value of a barrier that has the bubble wrap in it. Meaning the bubble insulation relies on other components of the barrier and trapped air to achieve the claimed R-value.

Spray foam is good because it seals any air leaks in the wall. But it's not cheap and doesn't look too good. I went with fiberglass in my walls, covered with OSB. 3-1/2 inch fiberglass is R-13. I'm in the process of installing an OSB ceiling, then I'll blow in 6 to 8 inches of fiberglass in the attic, which will give me about R-20.

There's no reason you can't use fiberglass just because you have steel walls, but you do need to have a vapor barrier on the interior. You can't get condensation on the steel if there's no way for moisture to get to the wall.
 
jaden,

30 years an insulation company told me about celetex tuff R extruded urethane with aluminum foil on both sided to reflect radiant heat. He said it works best over fiberglass insulation on the inside walls.

I built a rental house this way and it very easy to heat and cool.

Then I remolded my 2000 ft house. Gutted each room, rewired and put 3/4 tuff R on walls before I drywalled. Very easy to heat and cool. Since then I've done a few other rental homes using celetex tuff R.

Blocking radiant heat is one of the things that are overlooked.

I read where a company sells a product that you install on your roof to block radiant heat. Then install 1 1/2 perlins on roof before you install metal roofs.
 
I framed in this 24'x40'x8' barn with 2x4s between the posts and used 4" of fiberglass in the walls and ceiling. Then covered everything with used OSB I got for $1.00 a sheet. I have a radiant tube heater in the ceiling and it costs me about $300 a winter to heat @ 55* in southeast MI.
a238723.jpg
 
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