Where to find bolts with handles?

RedMF

Member
I'm making some brush forks which will fit onto the bucket with a Piranha tooth bar without taking off the bar. So I cant use the usual clamp forks as they won't fit with the tooth bar still on there.

Does anyone know if its possible to buy bolts with handles like this or to help with searching, is there a name for them?

40833.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 02:43:39 09/27/16) Why would you not just make them yourself? Pretty simple to weld a piece of rod or shaft on to the appropriate bolt head.

I can't weld
 
I couldn't either, but I got tired of paying $30 - $40 for every little thing downtown, and waiting 4 days, so I bought a Forney welder. And took a vo-tech course. Still can't weld good, but I occasionally can, and once on a while I really nail it. But I can make do and save so much time and money, it was worth it. Don't sell yourself short, go for it. Best part is I showed my boys welding, and how maybe they can do it, and they sure try.
 
(quoted from post at 03:32:54 09/27/16) I couldn't either, but I got tired of paying $30 - $40 for every little thing downtown

I once did a short course in gas and mig welding about 25 years ago but the results weren't pretty. I know it's about practice but I dont have any equipment and would need to do a course again anyway. I looked into it a few months ago because I'm always thinking of things I would make or fix, if only I could weld but it means a 6 day course over 6 weeks in the nearest city which is a long way away, so a course just isn't do-able unfortunately. The local little adult college, a branch of the city one, never runs the welding course.
 
You have all the info you would get in a welding course for free here on the internet. Just
buy a good welder such as a Lincoln or Miller and start playing. It takes practice. If you
need cost justification find out what the hourly rate is for welding in your area and I bet
you can buy a welder cheaper
 

Some thirty years ago the repair guy that I took my vehicles and equipment to when I couldn't do it myself, as he was welding my manure spreader, told me that I should have my own welder. I started watching for one, and then there was a Lincoln 225 on the side of the road. I got it for $100.00. I have always had plenty of welding to do and though I have kept intending to read the instructions I haven't yet. The first thing that I learned was to crank the amps until I am nearly burning through the stock, and the joint will last. There are a couple other things to learn as well but that is about 80% of it.
 
Ok ok, you guys win :lol:
I guess welding bolts would be a good place to start. And my most recent design for the forks included the need to pay someone to weld them.
And thanks, I appreciate the encouragement.
 
(quoted from post at 04:47:23 09/27/16) What would be the minimum spec welder/Lincoln model, which could weld 3/4" bar to 3/4"?

You need to have a stick welder for steel that thick.
 
welding is the way to go. Even a cheap 110 wire-feed will stick bolts together.

out in the woods with no welder?
bigger bolt heads...drill a hole all the way thru the head.
Stick a pin or old screwdriver shank thru the hole. Peen the ends so it can't fall out = T-handled bolt.

no power outlet in the woods?
JB weld an old 50 cent yard sale box end wrench to the bolt head...and leave it on there.
 
That's a perfect application for a 110/120 volt little mig welder that they sell at TSC or elsewhere. Mine is gas instead of flux core but both work
the same, just have to clean off the welds with the flux core. My big welder is name brand, but my little guy is not and it's been running strong
for 16+ years. You can weld some pretty thick stock with the 110 unit too - you just can't weld continually on the thick stock.

A few practice welds and you'll be up and running.. Start out hot and dial it back if you're blowing through your material. Before you know it
you'll be buying a large welder to complement your smaller unit.
 
Why can't you carry and tighten down std. bolts with a cresent wrench????? Might be less prone to loosening also. As seen in an earlier post, a cresent has many other handy uses also.
Loren
 
I've got 240v, 10amps in the workshop. When I had the re-wire I could have got 15amps put in but I didnt think I would ever need it.
There is a Lincoln Invertec 160SX stick/tig welder which can use up to a 4mm electrode and only needs 10amps, 240v.
Would this do the 3/4" bar as well as fixing the holes in the bodywork of my pick-up with smaller electrodes?
 
(quoted from post at 05:33:28 09/27/16) Why can't you carry and tighten down std. bolts with a cresent wrench????? Might be less prone to loosening also. As seen in an earlier post, a cresent has many other handy uses also.
Loren

Because I want the design to be as no tools, quick release, as possible.
 
You make your own. Since you are 'makeing' the forks,surely you can have the bolts welded up too.When I worked in the
factory,we used to make thousands of them.I still make em at home when I need one.
 
(quoted from post at 06:29:56 09/27/16) You make your own. Since you are 'makeing' the forks,surely you can have the bolts welded up too.When I worked in the
factory,we used to make thousands of them.I still make em at home when I need one.

Yeah, I'm just trying to find a stick welder which can cover all the jobs I need doing around here.
 
go buy a 'cheap' Lincoln 'Tombstone' 225 anp stick welder.That will weld anything you need to do.They been around for
a'hundred' years.I have one,No telling how many hundred thousand hours and thousand pounds of rod that machine has gone
through.
 
(quoted from post at 06:36:24 09/27/16) go buy a 'cheap' Lincoln 'Tombstone' 225 anp stick welder.That will weld anything you need to do.They been around for
a'hundred' years.I have one,No telling how many hundred thousand hours and thousand pounds of rod that machine has gone
through.

I dont think they sell them in this part of the world and I think they need 50amps in and I only have 10.
 
Who needs a "welding coarse"????? Just read the book,grab some scrap out of the pile and start welding.Run some beads at
different settings;weld some pieces together.Make little 'stuff' just for practice. PracticePracticePractice.........That's how
most of us learned,me included. Surely you have a friend who can coach you.95% of my work is with 1/8" 6011 set at 90 amps,and
with 1/8" 7018 set at 225 amps(full throttle lol) You can do it!!!!!!
 
My dad's old trailer and wagons have those, cast iron in one piece-- except they're the "nut" instead of the bolt.
 
10 amps???? It should be as easy as just replaceing the 10 amp breaker with a 30(or 40) Amp breaker. Unless you have too small
gage wire to handle the amperage,there should be no issues.However you should consult a 'professional' electrician.
 
Is it possible to weld 3/4" bar to 3/4" bar with a 1/8" electrode @ 160 amps, with several passes?, 'cos that's the max size stick welder I can use on my supply here.
 
(quoted from post at 06:59:21 09/27/16) 10 amps???? It should be as easy as just replaceing the 10 amp breaker with a 30(or 40) Amp breaker. Unless you have too small
gage wire to handle the amperage,there should be no issues.However you should consult a 'professional' electrician.

I have a feeling that when they ran the new cable to the workshop it was only good for 10amps and the most they will ever run on single phase in this country is 15amps @ 240v.
 
Just checked the circuit board to the workshop and it looks like it has a 25amp breaker on it, which give me more options.
 
(quoted from post at 08:08:22 09/27/16) I learned more from my dad and watching him weld than any book out there.

Didn't get the chance to do any of that kind of stuff with my dad as he dropped dead in the shower when he was 36 and I was 2 and my mother never re-married, so I've had to teach myself most things.
 
Well, RedMF, I'll toss my $.02 in here, and I think you can just add those bolts/rod to the stuff you want the shop in town to weld, and take it all in there. Any of the parts that may be load bearing would not be on my list to have welded by a beginner. Too much at risk with a load on the forks to trust that. Plus, you might just ruin enough bolts/rod to pay to have someone do it right the first time. When you start talking about buying a welder, you also need: helmet/gloves/protective clothing/rod/cord/recepticle/wiring/breaker/grinder/hammer/etc, etc.

To save a few bucks getting the job done right? Forget it. You will probably be money ahead hiring it done.

Pros are pros because they know what they are doing and can do it right repeatedly and safely. Take advantage of them.
 
Over forty years ago I wanted to build a fork for our loader so I bought an AC buzz box. It was recommended because it had a high duty cycle. I read a book and started welding. When I started I didn't have a grinder which would have made my first jobs neater. I'm still using the fork. I wore that welder out and just bought a Miller AC/DC. Sweet!!! I use a lot of hard surface rod to prevent wear. Tungsten Carbide is great for any rubbing surface. I have a different rod that I use on Rotovator teeth that won't chip off but can make teeth last for ever. I am now rebuilding the shares for my MH trip plow for competition next week.It doesn't take many projects and repairs to pay for a welder. Another toy I use regularly is my Hypotherm Plasma cutter. I was looking at cheaper makes but was told by a friend who owns a fab shop that there is only one kind and it is made in the USA and consumables are ready available
Dave
 
Yes. 3/4 to 3/4 and much thicker. just VEE it out to a point.Make a 'root' pass with 6011,chip/clean slag. Then crank it up and
lay in multiple overlapping passes,Remove slag from each pass before laying the next.I've welded drawbars,tool bars'you name
it. Have yet to have one break.
 
(quoted from post at 07:03:46 09/27/16) Is it possible to weld 3/4" bar to 3/4" bar with a 1/8" electrode @ 160 amps, with several passes?, 'cos that's the max size stick welder I can use on my supply here.

160 Amps is too high for a 1/8" electrode unless you are just looking to burn holes in things.

A 1/8" 7018 electrode is generally used at around 125 Amps, while a 1/8" 6011 electrode is generally around 90 Amps.
 
At a hundred and sixty amps, you are going to do more cutting than welding. Turn it down to around ninety to a hundred and fifteen amps.
 
I learned to weld when I was 8. My half brother worked in the County shop and
brought me all the floor sweepings. Bolts, nuts, washers and short rod ends.
Dad had an old Forney welder no one knew how to use. I learned all by myself,
no internet 52 years ago. I got good at it, with practice. Even learned to use
the old arc cutter that came with it. I built a lot of equipment over the
years. Lengthened truck frames, mounted hoists and built truck beds. Did all
my own welding....James
 
I started by burning hole in plow points for building things. That was back at about 8-10 years old. I'm now 57 most things hold I weld including the beams I welded for my brother in his barn renovation. I use most any rod I get hold of. 6011,7018,7014, hard surface rod. Have not used any hard surface in many years. The rod is hear just don't use it.
 
If you want a good welder, start looking around for a Lincoln, or Miller engine drive. If you look, one can often be bought for about the same price as some of the electric models.

With the right one you get not only the welder, but also a 110/220V generator to use for power outages, etc. All in all, it's the best bang for the buck you can get.

Keep in mind that you can get them that are capable of both stick (Constant Current) and MIG (constant voltage)to give you the potential for even more capabilities.

Once you have that, keep your eyes open, again, for either a voltage sensing feeder, or one that will power off the aux connector on the engine drive. This will give you the capability to do MIG with the engine drive. I've got a Miller Trailblazer, and I have run .045 wire off of mine quite a few times over the years.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top