F134 Jeep Engine

Took running but leaky engine down to the short block and cleaned everything well. Replaced all gaskets, set valves to spec, chased all threaded holes and reassembled with all new seals and a new electronic distributer. Discovered oil pump is 180 degrees out of rotation (common problem, just matched the distributor to it) but it started fine and idles well. But it has some clacking noise on the manifold side I am thinking is tappet noise and it gets hot quickly. Also pops a bit when you open the throttle. We are thinking the timing may be too advanced, causing both the popping and it to over heat. Can't see the timing mark in the hole underneath so just setting timing by ear. Flywheel could be 180 degrees off as well which means pulling it back out of the Jeep. Any other ideas before we do that?

Mark the front pulley and attach a wire to the cam drive cover to point to it.. (use a soft copper wire down the plug hole to set TDC) then you will know where you are. Mine used to pop and spit till I repaired the plunger and cup seal on the accelerator pump. Clatter could be lifter related. Pretty bullet proof engine. Jim

Might want to go back and recheck the valve clearance. Always a good idea to reset them after initial start up. Be a good time to retorque the head bolts (before setting the lifters).

Could the clacking and popping be an exhaust manifold leak? They can make some strange noises!

When you were working on the distributor, did you check the function of the centrifugal advance, and the vacuum advance (if equipped)?

Is the popping you mention coming from the carb, as in a cough or backfire on acceleration? That can be a sign of too lean or a problem with the accelerator pump. Also check for vacuum leaks.

I wouldn't be too concerned with finding timing marks. Pretty easy to get the timing "close enough" just by trial and error, make small adjustments, take it for a drive. Spark knock, kicking back when trying to start are signs of too much advance. Carb backfire, sluggish performance are evidence of slow timing.

is this the early cj3 series?

So I notice this morning I had a serious typo in the title. This engine is a L134 not and F134. I have Jeeps with both engines, and wherever I get talking about the old Flathead I throw that F in there when in fact it is called "L head". The "F head" is for the newer engine with the intake valves in the head and the exhaust valves in the block. Now that my mistake is cleared up, we did make progress after I posted last night.

My son pulled the oil pump and indexed it correctly last night. After that he was able to get the timing better adjusted and the heating problem went away. Just need to recheck the valves and we should be good to go. Everyone has a different feel for setting valves, if you have a preference would it be to have them a little tight or a little loose? Its titled as a 47 CJ2A but who knows what the engine is. Has a willys block and a ford head, and when we ground the valves two of the exhaust had been up-sized to intake seats. So I'm pretty sure its a pieced together engine. But no big deal, even the old mil-spec MB's were pieced during depot overhaul. Head is marked .014" but I have TSB's that say .016".

Thanks!

Just getting ready to deliver three L134 Willys engines to a restoration/parts dealer from Minnesota. All left over from Jeep projects that never happened. In general.....I agree that valves should be re-set after run in......always better to be on the loose clearance side......and I also agree on the cylinder head re-torque.

Thanks for the info. I also have FC170 project with a 226 Super Hurricane in it. You ever find those? I'm thinking of swapping it out for the F134. My experience with the 226 has been they are a POS and hard to get parts for, but I might be wrong. I have a freshly overhauled Ford 172 I6 long block (early mustang, falcon) but it appears the bell housing is different. I hoped it would work because the Y-block Ford from about the same time period was also offered in the FC. I have a stuck F134 and I'd swap both for a running F134, if your interested.

To answer the other question about the vacuum or centrifugal advance, the new electronic distributor has none of that. Even the oiler is fake. But supposed to be very reliable, we'll see I guess.

Thanks!

I know nothing about the Hurricane as was used in the FC. In a week or two, I may have a F134 that was put into an older Willys and it originally came out of a local FC truck a gazillion yrs. ago so a Chev V/8 could be swapped in. I have to buy the whole Willys to get the PTO system that I need. You can reach me at 262-844-1557.

Sounds good. My phone 515-708-2848, I'll give you a shout in a couple weeks. Thanks!