New Holland 271 Baler...........

banjoman09

Well-known Member
Is there anyone with experience on these balers? Have trouble getting my strings tight. Has "crank tighteners" on the back.....I keep my strings tight where they come out the back. Seems when I crank down the tensioners it makes the bales "heavier" but strings are the same. I can left the bales okay but strings come up about 3-4 inches- but want them tighter. Thanks.
 
What kind of hay are you baling. Real dry alfalfa or fine grass hay is springy and will not make a rock hard bale. As far as the baler the only thing I can think of that would cause loose strings is the restrictors that make the string pull just a little hard. These are a plate with springs on it that the twine goes under. It is right at the twine box. IF this does not hold a little tension on the twine it can cause loose strings.

Truthfully 3-4 inches when lifted on real dry, springy hay is not unusual.
 
New holland is like that people were amazed back in the day when I could grab a bale and tell them what baler made them. But I think you're doing okay how many bales are you making ? There's a saying if it ain't broke don't fix it. But I will agree with the previous post there is the twine tension in the bale box if you pull the twine on the outside of the box you should get good resistance. Also grass hay will make a difference a good team on the wagon and baler could even change gears and make better bales . I always had trouble with my dad if the bales got spongy and I wanted him to kick it up a gear. Do you have the plates in the bale chamber? That can make a difference I took mine out to bale corn fodder.
 

I thought twine tension on twine coming out of twine box is for good knot forming not twine tension on bale. In drier hay if you have bale case tension springs 100% tight and strings aren't tight enough you can add wedges to the inside of bale case but this may make bales weight too much
 
I can make them with any of NH balers where you can barely get your fingers under the strings (75-100 lb bales), you have to if you use a balewagon to pick them up, sounds like you need bale wedges installed in the chamber, start by installing them in sets, depending on type of hay you have will tell how many you need,, you can make bricks without having to crank down on the tension springs so much
cnt
 
Crank down more.

Add wedges.

Drive faster.

Or rake a bigger windrow.

Don't have over dry hay.

Strings feeding to the knitters has no effect on bale density.

Paul
 
Due to a bad back I make light bales as in 35-40lbs and may strings are tight even wit ha light bale. Check that the hay dogs are up like they should be or you will have a loose bale. By the way I bale my square bales with a fence row NH271 or in other words I have a once dead baler that works just fine
 
If you have heavy bales and get grass twine too tight it will bust when you pick up the bales, I don't use the plastic small bale twine but I imagine it does not bust as easy.
 
look inside the bale chamber just below the back of the knotters, are there any vertical wedge shaped pieces bolted to the sides of the chamber?, if so those are the wedges and they're installed in pairs if they're worn out or damaged that will cause a loose bale,if they're not any in there install a set or two,also check the upper and lower hay dogs make sure they aren't stuck broken or the springs broken especially if you install wedges,as stated before material being baled has a lot to do with making a tight bale,a little warning trying to create too tight of a bale can sometimes cause tying problems
 

you baling second or third cut? Stems act as springs trying to straighten and expand, putting tension on the twine. If you have mostly leaf and little stem you loose that tensioning effect.
 
Okay - great help and information guys - thanks! I guess I should tell more ; 1. light windrows of alfalfa- pretty dry usually. I run the windrow in the center of the pick up reel; I travel in 2nd gear with a Oliver 88 - LOL- or not very fast. I do have two sets of plates in the chamber- put them in last year. My tension plate with the spring I do keep snug- with some pressure on the twine. My straw bales seem tighter than the hay bales; pretty good job on straw bales - heavier windrow. Ill just keep baling ; the other problem is sometimes one end of the bale will be "offset" or not even? like one side is longer than the other - maybe 2-3 inches...not sure on that either. Thanks for all your help!
 
(quoted from post at 19:10:06 09/07/16) Okay - great help and information guys - thanks! I guess I should tell more ; 1. light windrows of alfalfa- pretty dry usually. I run the windrow in the center of the pick up reel; I travel in 2nd gear with a Oliver 88 - LOL- or not very fast. I do have two sets of plates in the chamber- put them in last year. My tension plate with the spring I do keep snug- with some pressure on the twine. My straw bales seem tighter than the hay bales; pretty good job on straw bales - heavier windrow. Ill just keep baling ; the other problem is sometimes one end of the bale will be "offset" or not even? like one side is longer than the other - maybe 2-3 inches...not sure on that either. Thanks for all your help!

to cure "offset" or"banana" bales you need to adjust your cross feed into the chamber.
 
(quoted from post at 05:17:47 09/07/16) Is there anyone with experience on these balers? Have trouble getting my strings tight. Has "crank tighteners" on the back.....I keep my strings tight where they come out the back. Seems when I crank down the tensioners it makes the bales "heavier" but strings are the same. I can left the bales okay but strings come up about 3-4 inches- but want them tight

er. Thanks.

Heavier windrow should solve the banana bales, also feed into the far end of the pickup to allow the feeder to "straighten" the wad.
 

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