Question about applying gasket material to manifold gasket

chasbar431

New User
I am replacing the exhaust manifold on my 1952 Ford 8N. I am now ready to put the gaskets on and have bought a tube of Permatex Ultra Copper gasket maker. My question is this, do I apply the gasket material to both sides of the gasket? This is my first time doing this. I would appreciate some guidance to ensure a successful job, thanks.
 
Bet you get a lot of opinions on this one. Exhaust as far as I know doesn't get anything other than those tough metal gaskets. Intake manifold, valve covers, cover plates, pan gaskets, etc. yes. The product you mentioned is really good stuff. I have used it on a lot of lawn tractor jobs. On the out going side anything will just burn off in a matter of minutes. They used to make an gray kind of putty stuff with asbestos in it. That was pretty good stuff but like 30 years ago. I would just say that you need to have dead level and straight surfaces that make a perfect and tight fit. The block surfaces are pretty tough and usually straight, it is the manifold surfaces that get all eroded. Tons of heat. Let us see what the other folk have to say.
 
Bad choice of sealant for that . Use aviation Permatex and coat both sides . Lay it on an old cardboard box coat then flip .
 
Thank you Jeffcat. It is a new aftermarket manifold from YT. I followed the info from Bruce VA on the prep for the block, using ThermoSteel Hi Temp manifold repair material.
 
(quoted from post at 07:13:38 08/10/16) So, M MAN, are you telling me I don't need any type of gasket material added to the gaskets?

The only reason to use any type of sealant on an exhaust manifold gasket is if the manifold itself is pitted, or if the mating surface on the engine side is pitted. Since your manifold is brand new, it is good to go, but what does the engine side look like?
 
New manifold or not, you should always check them for flatness. Get the largest fine flat file and draw it across the surface to check it. Nothing against any products from this website, but most all of the cast iron repros that you buy any where come from the land of almost right. Just my two cents.

OTJ
 
Some minor pitting which I smoothed out with Hi Temp ThermoSteel and covered it with wax paper and then put the manifold on without the gaskets and tightened it down and let it set overnight to cure.
 
manifold must be flat. generally no sealant required. but i believe permatex has a product out for heat. so probably wont hurt to try it. its an old tractor.
 

The exhaust manifold on a 8N is also the intake manifold, although rtv isn't needed I use it only on one side to help hold the gasket to the manifold while installing.
You need to use the gasket to prevent a possible vacuum leak on the intake part of the manifold.
 
On exhaust gaskets I do not use any kind of sealer as it's not necessary. However, I do use never-seize on them so they can be removed at a later time if needed. Mike
 
(quoted from post at 08:08:23 08/10/16) I maybe old fashion but i just grease both sides and never had any problems using it..

I've done that many, many times. Just enough grease to keep the gasket in place while installing the component.
 
No sealer on exhaust gaskets. Anywhere you do use sealer like on intake, water pump, etc, use No.2. I don't know why they make No. 1 and have never found a place for it, unless you're helping someone that you really hate and want them to have to use a cutting torch to take it apart should they have to. NEVER use No. 1 unless are using it to build a stronger than concrete sidewalk or patio that will be around 6,000 years after you're dead and gone.

Good luck,

Mark
 

Permatex Ultra Copper IS THE BEST thing you can put on it BAR NONE.

WHY you say, The gasket is like sand paper over time it eats away at the manifold Over time the RTV will turn back to a powder when that happens it acts as a lubricant between the manifold and block.
It will extend the life of the gasket along with the parts the gasket is mounted to. I have removed N manifolds that were on the tractor 5 years were Ultra Copper was applied on both sides of the gasket. The gasket was still usable :shock: The gasket had a power on it, it looked like pink baby powder. :)

Don't over kill it a thin coating on both sides will do. If you overkill it, it will squeeze out and restrict the intake ports, a N needs all the help it can GIT...

I don't know were the other guys get there reference to not using RTV on a exhaust manifold for sure it does not apply there day job that depends on fixing it one time.
 
Gaskets and seals are designed to not need any kind of additives or sealers. They did not use any from the factory, and look how long they lasted.
Confident mechanics that assemble GOOD parts CORRECTLY do not need any aids to sealing. The secret to successful engine assembly is to make sure that all of the parts that you are using are correct and in proper condition according to the shop manual.
Glues and sealers are used to compensate for defective parts and poor assembly techniques.
 

Sealing technology we have today was not available then. Any fiber faced exhaust manifold gasket has always been a issue was then and is today. If that engine was built today they sure as ell would not use a fiber faced gasket.

What is the last production built engine you know of that used from the factor a fiber faced exhaust manifold to cylinder head gasket.
 
You should have surfaced planed or milled that manifold so it is perfect flat. Just install. Which of your pals has a 6 inch floor belt sander.40 grit works great. 5 minute job.
 
I worked in three different shops and each had opinionated shop foremen. I used whatever my boss liked and it seemed that each worked. One used aluminum paint, another used grease and one used nothing. Seems it was about as varied as the discussion here, Maybe all are right.
 

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