83 sticking chevy clutch update

ericlb

Well-known Member
ok i got the cab gutted, i suppose the pedal bracket is supposed to be removed after the metal part of the dash, but its out now anyway!, apparently the problem is the center pedal steel bushing floating out and grinding a partial notch in the side of the pedal bracket assembly when the pedal is depressed it caused the thing to try and lock in place, so, the spare i got is in even worse shape, the part is not available since 1990, the plan unless i hear a better one is to weld a hardened washer over the hole where the long bolt goes then cut whatever the thickness measurement is of the washer off the clutch pedal itself so the clearance remains the same, may work, and may cause me to take the backhoe and mash this truck into a lump of steel and rubber and go see what the scrap man wants to give for it,
 
Eric it is just a pivot type of linkage so your idea of rebuilding the pivot pin/bolt area should work fine. I have even made repair pieces out of flat iron and welded them beside the factory panel. Some times you want some thing thicker than most washers are. As you stated you just narrow the peddle up so it will fit between the "new" pivot hole mounts.
 
Could you use a flanged bronze bushing? I used flanged bushings on some levers I redid that had rubbed together for years. The flange took up the slop between them
 
yes lmc and brothers both have the bushing kits and the spring but nobody makes the whole mounting unit im betting this is a problem on the older trucks to varying degrees, so maybe some time they'll offer it, but for now i need to make this truck work, dont really want to go pick up the bigger chevy mine has a 12 foot flatbed dump on it which is what i need, i cant find any old cheap ton and a half or 2 tons around here with enough left to build, this other truck will build, but man, a c-60 tandem axle gas rig with a 5 + 4 transmission is just way overkill for the job, plus the probable 2 or 3 miles to a gallon doesnt turn me on either
 
Hi atleast you now know what the problem is, fixing it should be easy with some ingenuity. I wouldn't take a chance on crushing it and hoping the scrap guy will give you anything. Prices are way down. I'd think if it took a day or 2 to fix you'd still be ahead. All the new parts would only make you about 3 cents a pound round here this week L.O.L.
Good luck and looking forward to the fixed post coming up.
Regards Robert
 
Pardon me for chiming in here, but... I have to say this. You are continually "threatening" to scrap the truck over a clutch linkage. Then you ask for help.

It is just a clutch linkage. Not rocket science. Just not that complicated. There are dozens of salvage yards and aftermarket suppliers that can provide you with solutions to your problem.

I have been following these threads for some time now, and I say this:
Don't bother "threatening" to scrap it. If you are done with it, scrap it. I lose NOTHING whether you keep it, fix it, scrap it, or just take out your frustration with it. I don't have a dog in this fight. Neither do most of the other posters here.
 
guess i can take my questions to another forum, i bought this truck new, the part is not available, the problem has cost me over a grand in a 200 dollar clutch job, i guess after 30 years if i own 7 trucks and 4 tractors i can do what i want with them if i cant fix it
 
(quoted from post at 20:14:46 06/27/16) guess i can take my questions to another forum, i bought this truck new, the part is not available, the problem has cost me over a grand in a 200 dollar clutch job, i guess after 30 years if i own 7 trucks and 4 tractors i can do what i want with them if i cant fix it

If I was in your shoes, I'd find some washers, flat iron, whatever, and repair the pivot. More than one old truck or tractor has been repaired and made functional again using the "precision cobbling" method.

When the part you need cannot be found, you make it.
 

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