penatrating oil

DannyE · Jun 4, 2016

I tried the ATF and Acetone. I used ATF Morcon V and acetone from the paint dept. and it keeps separating, acetone on the top. Am I using the wrong stuff, I'm trying to replace the shackles and equalizers on a bobcat trailer. Thanks, Dan

rustyfarmall · Jun 4, 2016

ATF and acetone is a formula for freeing stuck and rusted engines, where you pour the mixture in on top of the pistons and let it set. For the job you are doing, I think something like PB Blaster might be a better choice, but even that probably won't work without the use of an oxy/acetylene torch to heat things up a bit.

johnlobb · Jun 4, 2016

I am a long time proponent of Kroil or Silikroil. available at Kano Labs, Nashville, TN...

DannyE · Jun 4, 2016

OK, I'll get some Kroil and try that, don't have a torch. Thanks Dan

Donald Lehman · Jun 4, 2016

There's Liquid Wrench and then there is Heat Wrench. Save yourself some time and aggravation. Do as Rusty says and use the Heat Wrench. If you don't have access to a torch, grind one side of the nut down to the threads, get a cold chisel and a decent sized hammer and break the nut off the bolt. I usually use a pair of vise grips to hold the chisel so I can wale away at the chisel without fear of mutilating my hand if I miss a time or two with the hammer. Don't ask how I learned this. (Smile)

Scott 730 · Jun 4, 2016

(quoted from post at 09:16:54 06/04/16) I tried the ATF and Acetone and it keeps separating, acetone on the top.

That's normal. You need to shake it up occasionally. I have had tremendous success with ATF and acetone. Had an old running gear that hadn't moved in 20 years. 1 king pin stuck tight. Sprayed Liquid Wrench on it for a few days and got it to barely move. Doused it with ATF acetone for a few days and it is now free. The acetone creeps into the tight areas and brings the ATF with it. I am a believer.

old · Jun 4, 2016

I use straight ATF in a pump oil can and have for decades no acetone. It works as good or better then any thing else I have ever tried over the years I have been doing things. I use Dextron

Dave H (MI) · Jun 4, 2016

Just a friendly comment. If you are going to continue doing this kind of work, I do not see how you are going to go long without a torch. You do not need to know how to weld, you just need to learn the pressures and how to adjust to get the proper flame. I actually use a cutting torch and it helps to learn how to use one of those for the few times I have needed to cut something. I do not know how I would make it thru a year if I did not have a torch and the knowledge to use it for this purpose. Some things you heat very hot and some you just warm it enough to expand the parts to loosen them up but not cause warping. You learn as you go. Most of the time I am behind and need a repair done TODAY. I do not have time to soak and wait, soak and wait, soak and...

tim s · Jun 4, 2016

I'm with you John,,I received 2 cases of Kroil a year ago in a deal,, I had never heard of it,, I was giving a few cans away to friends because I had so much of it,, well I got to liking it so well I became very "stingy" about giving any more away,,it's the best I have ever used...

mozark · Jun 4, 2016

Been using straight Dexron 6 (synthetic), seems to soak in very quick.

Steve@Advance · Jun 4, 2016

You will be replacing the bolts anyway. If they don't twist off, cut the head off with the grinder.

mtf · Jun 4, 2016

Those bolts are more than likely fine threaded. Those threads have a tendency to distort when removed. Gas axe is the only way to go. Nathan

oleclint · Jun 4, 2016

I have been using Kroil for fifteen years plus. It is the best "p "oil that I have found. A lot of it is used here in the oil fields on heavy machinery.
PB Blaster is a close second in my opinion. clint

dewy · Jun 4, 2016

brake fluid is the best i ever used,,you cant have rust in braking systems,look how much cast iron was on the old systems,cast iron master cylinders,goes in like acetone but not dry like acetone really breaks that rust loose,,really does work.........and cheap...........dewy

jon f mn · Jun 4, 2016

Cut or grind off the nuts, not the bolt heads. Those are special bolts and have knurling on the bolt head end to prevent them from turning so cutting off the bolt head will not be enough to get them out. If you have already had the bolt turning in the hanger both the bolt and hanger are already junk and need to be replaced. If the bolt is still solid in the hanger and won't turn the just a bolt and bushing replacement may be ok. Most often at least the equalizer also needs to be replaced and frequently the hangers as well. If you need to replace the hangers and are not a decent welder it's time to let a pro do that job.

BradS · Jun 4, 2016

Free All

JRSutton · Jun 4, 2016

Amen Dave.

Boy, when I think of the time I wasted as a kid hoping penetrating oil would work...

(I live in New England where EVERYTHING is rusted)

Nothing beats heat. Fast, easy, and infinitely more effective. Granted you can't always use it, but for me that seems to be a rare exception. I simply don't bother with penetrating oil anymore.

A torch with a rosebud is ideal for speed, but even a can of mapp gas with a click start lighter works well enough, it just takes a little longer. I keep one in my truck for field repairs, it gets used a lot.

george md · Jun 4, 2016

Kinball-midwest makes one that works as well as Kroil

and does not smell bad . Have not had great success with

ATF mix , but it does work . Thermal encouragement works

best most of the time.

george

37chief · Jun 4, 2016

I'm with you on the torch. I couldn't get by with out my torch set up. Stan

Moonlite37 · Jun 4, 2016

Several years ago when the shop rate was $10 per hour and shackle bolts were .85 for the bolt and .35 for the nut we cut all of them off with a torch to save the customer money. Go figure

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