Injection pump removal

Mtractor

Member
Thanks for everybody's help. Know I need to remove the injector pump on my 260 A International backhoe with the D 239 engine. I need to remove the pump to fix the electric solinoid. Another question about the electric part can I just use a manual kill? Any way I have all the lines loose from the pump. I have removed the rectangular plate in front of the pump to get to the nut. Now what do I do from here? How does the pump come out? I have been told if I remove the pump and don't turn the engine and put it right back like it comes out I will be good to go.
 
TIME IT before you remove the pump! Line up the timeing marks on both pump and flywheel.Only then should you remove the pump.
 
As Delta said, set the timing first per the service manual, saves headaches later. You will need a strap or plate and two bolts that thread into the gear to push the pump tapered shaft out of the gear. If the solenoid is bad I've disabled them in the past, but it takes some spacer measuring to hold the throttle valve in the run position. Pump must be removed for solenoid access since it's on the pump back side next to the block. If there's a place for a stop cable, or the throttle can be reset the pump can then be shut down mechanically to keep the pump working with a bad solenoid. Last solenoid I replaced was on an IH 715 D310 pump, they're probably real pricey now, if still available.
 
Good timing for this subject to pop up. My 756 has a 715 combine 310 diesel in it. The solenoid in the pump quit a few weeks ago on the road. I drug it home and haven't had time to mess with it. Fiat/case wants just shy of a grand for a new solenoid! I found a reman pump with cable kill for $1200 online. My current pump would need resealing as it leaks fuel in several places and shimming the throttle valve. It has the kill cable bracket on it. Ive never had one of these pumps apart. Is it pretty straight forward to make up a spacer to go between I assume the solenoid plunger and throttle valve or is it something better left to a professional?
 
I've repaired several VA pumps, but have been at it forty years. When at the Bosch VA service training after the class was over we asked where the rubber room was that the VA design fellow was in. It's a good pump, but with the hydraulic governor it's critical to know how it's built before tearing into one, especially since there are few parts available anymore. I cringe when someone brings me one they've taken apart, and only hope nothing is broken so I can save it. If the combine pump is mechanically OK I should be able to reseal it and modify the solenoid, and bench test it for about 300-350, including return costs. If you like call me some evening, 574 893 four one seven two. After 7 PM is best.
 
I had a few apart for rebuild and decided I had better things to do. After that I sent them to diesel shop. I still did almost all the Roosa Master and 100 series Bosch. Trying to explain that hydraulic governor to someone is like trying to walk on water. Taking one of those pumps off while on a 715 combine is something else also. Of course, it was the electric shut off giving the problem. Question, what does it take to convert electric shut of to cable shut off. I don't know if control plunger is different or not.
 
When the solenoid dies I make a longer plunger to keep the throttle valve in the run position. Have to custom make each one to fit the pump it's going on. Most farmers are more than happy to either add a stop cable, or back out the low idle stop screw to kill the engine since the solenoids are so pricey. I've changed several M100 pumps too when the solenoid dies on them also.
 

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