Allis Chalmers WD won't turn over

Will Herring

Well-known Member
Went out to work on the tractors last weekend, found 12V battery was flat, and that the positive post had turned black (oxidized?) over winter. So I cleaned it up with some baking soda and wire brush terminal cleaners. Same with the cables themselves. Then charged the battery (seemed to take a charge over about 16 hours and reads about 13.5V).

Took it out and put it in the tractor today, got everything set up, and turned on the key and as soon as I pull the starter I get a single quiet "grrr...*click*" and then nothing. Doesn't even sound like a stalled starter, sounds like it won't even try to spin.

So... What are my options for diagnosis here? Dead battery? Bad cables? Bad connections? Easiest ways to diagnose any of these problems before I go and buy new cables or a new battery? I have a meter I can check voltage and/or resistance with, just in case maybe my key switch or something is bad or I've got a broken wire somewhere.

Was exhausted by this point and had left my manual with the wiring diagram at home so I just packed up and headed for home.
 
David's got it ...Give it a real life load test . Modern batteries don't survive well when left dead.
 
mine did that between morning and after noon once. Turned out to be the terminal connection in the triangular
(solinoid??)box that is on the starter that has the button on it. burnt from too many starts.
 
That the starter tried to engage is a good indication there are no problems with the electrical system or ignition switch.

Start with the volt meter across the battery posts (not the cable ends, the actual battery posts), and try the starter. If the voltage drops to below 8 to 9 volts, the battery is dead or bad. If the voltage remains high, up around 12 volts, the battery is good, and there is a bad connection.

From there, start moving the test leads, one at a time, from the battery post to the cable end, to the other end of the cable, to the engine block, to the solenoid, etc., each time load testing it by trying to crank it. Once you find the place where the voltage drops, you will have found the problem. Pay close attention to bad grounds, they can be particularly difficult to find. Any connection that gets hot is a bad connection.

If you trace the voltage all the way to the starter post and starter case, the starter is bad.

This is easier to do with a helper to try the starter while you hold the test leads. But remember to keep in mind, the engine could crank any time while running these tests! Be sure to keep clear of any moving parts and that it in not in gear!
 
Did the engine turn over at all. Check and see if it is stuck. Maybe the starter is stuck engaged. Put in high gear and rock rear while.
 
You must not have seen a starter on a WD,the positive battery cable goes to ground,the Negative battery cable goes to the starter switch and the only 'circuit' is when the starter lever is pulled it engages the manual switch that acts like a solenoid.
 
True, it was originally positive ground, but since he says 12 volt battery, it may have been converted to alternator which, unless specially modified, requires negative ground.
 
Yes it was converted and battery direction flopped.

Oh, I also made sure to use the hand crank to roll the engine over 8 complete spins before trying the starter just to make sure it was free, and the engine isn't stuck.
 
had same thing with a group 31 truck battery, took charge looked good but as soon as you put a load on it nothing dead.
 
Easiest and simplest is to just take the battery to a GOOD garage and have it tested. It likely will test bad, then go to anouther place, battery store, and have it tested and then buy the new battery but you will know what problem is with the chance to follow up checking cables and conections knowing you have a good power source.
 
Is it one of those starters with the push button on top of the starter? If it is it could well have a bad button or the contacts in the button need to be cleaned seen that many times over the years
 
(quoted from post at 12:14:43 05/16/16) Is it one of those starters with the push button on top of the starter? If it is it could well have a bad button or the contacts in the button need to be cleaned seen that many times over the years

It's the style with a saddle that pushes two pieces of copper together to complete the circuit to the starter but the button is on the side of the starter. Basically this guy sits on the side of it:

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Allis-Chalmers-WD_Starter-Switch_1925781.html

Guess I haven't taken it off and cleaned it up in a few years...
 
Well, I think I may have an idea. Ohmed out the connections and the ground post to the frame was good, and even checked it at the starter housing and it was still good. Then checked the positive post to the starter saddle and it was also good.

So put the meter on the battery. 12.5V. Pulled and held the starter. Battery voltage dropped instantly to 1.5V. So the day it spent charging was irrelevant because apparently it is dead.

So... What are some good battery brands?
 

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