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Current path

You got several replies when you asked the same question a few days ago. That post is on page 4 now.
 
The current path FROM the Ignition Switch TO the Coil and beyond is:

OUT the Ignition Switches IGN output (Hot when ON) Terminal,,,,,,,,,,To and through any in line series ballast resistor (if it had one),,,,,,,,,,,,,To the Coils INPUT (NOT to distributor) Terminal,,,,,,,,,,Out the coils Output (To Distributor, not from switch) Terminal,,,,,,,,,,,,To the Ignition Points,,,,,,,,,,,To ground when points are closed. Got it???????????????

The complete battery current path is often from the Batterys ungrounded post to the starter switch or starter relay input terminal,,,,,,,,,,,a wire up to the ammeters Supply Input,,,,,,,,,,,,,,a wire from the ammeters other LOAD terminal,,,,,,,,To loads like lights or ignition switches BAT Input terminals

I thought we already answered this?? Is there a part you don't understand or have more questions, on please post back.

If others disagree or have a different current path from switch to coil please add to or correct my answer.

John T
 
Ignition switch is wired straight to the coil unless it is 12 volts then it is likely to have a ballast resister in line if it has the factory coil. Very simple circuit and pretty much the only difference in it from being hot wire is the switch
 
If you want to bypass everything to see if it will turn over, try this. Hot wire from positive battery post to starter terminal. (Large gauge) Hot wire from positive battery post to coil. (Small gauge) Ground post on battery to frame. Disconnect EVERYTHING else. Pull starter rod. In your last post, you said it was 12 volt/negative ground. That is what I have listed here. (Small wire should be to + side of coil). If you're wrong about the neg. ground, it will melt the coil wire real quick!
 
I'm sorry. I could not find the posts. Found them now. Overall problem is my 12 volt WD45 Cranks. No spark. has new plugs, plug wires, coil, battery, battery cables, rotor turns, points look ok. I'm working through harness now for any bare spots that could be shorting/grounding. Trying to understand why no spark at coil. It has current to alternator.
 
(quoted from post at 08:10:27 04/30/16) I'm sorry. I could not find the posts. Found them now. Overall problem is my 12 volt WD45 Cranks. No spark. has new plugs, plug wires, coil, battery, battery cables, rotor turns, points look ok. I'm working through harness now for any bare spots that could be shorting/grounding. Trying to understand why no spark at coil. It has current to alternator.
Click to expand...

Instead of checking wires simple way to do it is measure voltage to the battery side of the coil with the points open. No power? Replace wire. Power? Check the other side or the coil. Power? Clean the points by dragging a clean piece of paper between them with the points closed. No power? Replace coil. If you have power past the coil on the distributor side and the points are clean and adjusted properly check the wire from the coil to the points. IF all the above checks out then you have either bad wires, a bad cap or bad rotor. Now that's providing that the distributer shaft is actually turning while the engine is being cranked.

Now going a little deeper. If everything checks out and it doesn't make spark when cranking odds are the starter system for one reason or another is pulling too much power cranking the engine not leaving enough to power the ignition system. There problems can range from the cheap easy fix of cleaning all connections to having a bad battery, under charged battery, bad batt cables or a bad starter.

Rick
 
Electrons should flow from negative to positive, Current is the opposite. So negative ground,negative to frame, electorn flow is - to + and current positive to negative. Just the opposite if + is connected to the frame.
 
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