Difficult Decision Choice

Jacklegg

New User
Okay. Here's the dilemma. I'm having a difficult time in choosing which vintage tractor that I want to pursue. Its difficult, especially for someone who is new to the tractor world. What I would be using it for would be light brushhoggin' , tilling/plowing, grading driveway/snow plowing, and working food plots.....I don't see in the future of using a front loader. So here are some of the tractors that I'm interested in. I know that its like comparing apples and oranges, but hopefully there are some of you that could help guide me in a direction of a good solid tractor. First of is the Farmall Model H....I've heard good things about involving food plot maintenance. The next one is the Case Model SC / Model D / VAC, and lastly are the Ford 8n/9n/671/871/971. Those are the ones that have been mentioned to me. Like I said, I'm sure there are individuals out there that have used or have owned each of them. Just wanting your opinions and information. Thank you for your time and info - Jack
 
Most of the ones you list will not pull a tiller due to ground speed being to fast for a tiller. The 871/971 are ones that would pull a tiller but they are also the SOS transmission tractors which are good as long as they are good but big money pits if it has a problem and takes a good bit to keep working correctly.
For most of what you want a 861 Ford would fit since they do go slow enough for a tiller. For most stuff you also want a 3 point which the Farmall H does not have and some of the Case do not either
 
get something with live power pto. If your not familiar with that term study up on it. The H has no live power nor do the ford
N series. Possibly the most power for the money is case SC or DC ONLY if you get the late model with live power eagle hitch
( cases 3 point ) and foot clutch, Personally I have both hand clutch cases and like the hand clutch although its not popular
with many folks.You did not mention 3 point in your choices as the H did not come out with it, but many have an after market hitch, however non live pto is not safe and nor convenient for brushhoging. Gotta give you credit for knowing brushoging is using generic rotary cutter. Many do not know bushog in a brand name and is far superior machine than rotary cutter cutters often sold at farm supply stores.
 
A 3 point hitch will make life much easier with what you want to do with it. It will also open up a long list of implements available to you. How old are you? Some are much easier to get on and off than others.
 
Thank you. Just trying to learn something new. My Son is 5 and loves anything with wheels. I just like the look of vintage tractors and want to get us one that will do the work that we want it to do. I don't know very much about tractors so I came here wanting to learn and ask questions. As for Bushhog, my Grandpa used to work for them along time ago.
 
Find a good Ford 800 series or bigger. Ford 871 and 971 would be nice if they've got a good select o speed on them. You sure are going to want a 3 point hitch tractor
for what you want to do.
 
While your son likes wheels, tractors are deadly dangerous to be around! Your son could get run over, mowed, or fall off to name
only a very few ways of getting injured. DON"t buy one because of him at this age! Especially since you have not been around or
operated a tractor yourself! THEY are NOT toys!
 
Don't know what your budget is ? I'd add a Massey Ferguson 35 to the list. or a later model Ford. Some of the early compact tractors are getting old enough now the prices are dropping and they would be WAY better suited for the multi tasks listed.
 
Take your time looking for one. Maybe go and look at tractor dealers you have in your area and ask questions and maybe a test drive of a few. Children and tractors do not mix well unless there parked and not running. Depending on where your at I'll bet one of us would be close enough to help you with what you may buy. I know if you where close to me I have a good number of tractors that would give you ideas as to what is what
 
To me it all depends on the size of plots and gardens you will work on. I have a Farmall A. Farmall C, Farmall H, Farmall M, and a Farmall cub. My two favorites are the A and H. However,the H becomes hard to work with in small plots. I do a lot of small plots with the H but I prefer a Super A. Can pull 2-12 Plow, handles an 8 ft disc, does a good job bush hogging with a 5' hog, pulls hay wagon and most other ground contact tool if not too big. Easy to handle, steer and work on. In my opinion is the best all around small tractor ever made. Good start tractor for you. Can always sell it (they are in demand here in Ohio) and get an H for less money. Just my humble opinions, Henry
 
OF the jobs you list, the brushhogging is probably going to be 50% of your use. Once you start clearing land, you will want to keep it mowed down. driveway grading and snow plowing will probably be the next most frequent uses. Plowing and food plots will probably be the least use. Three point implements are plentiful, cheap, and well suited for your needs. The late model Fords you list without Selecto speed would be my advice, although the MF 35 or 135 would be good choices also.
 
I'd throw in some of the olivers a lot of people like certain brands
making them more costly. If you're not familiar with a tractor live
power would be the way to go with a Bush hog. A lot of people don't
realize that even if you push the clutch in the bush hog will still
drive the tractor forward . I had an allis d 15 and I liked that but
I would never put someone unfamiliar on it. I seen to many guys go
through fences that way granted it's cheap internment. One other
thing if you have to do a lot of shifts you have to wait till the
mower spins down or it's hard to shift
 
Well common sense say to take the key out. Now as for parked in gear I NEVER do that but I start many with pout being on them and most I have do not have working brake locks if the brakes even work
 

What ever you decide on , take a can of gas with you and operate the tractor until it gets to operating temp . If the owner will not let you try it out , walk away . If it doesn't work correctly , walk away . If it just needs a ten dollar part , walk away .

If it is an honest seller he will let it warm up to operating temp . If it just needed a simple fix he would have fixed it . Half of the time it is an old worn out tractor that needs a lot of work , which is OK if that's what you wanted for the right price .
 
Sounds like a 3 point hitch is going to be necessary for lots of your work. I have a ford 641 and really enjoy it doing lots of the things you list. An independent pto or dual stage clutch would be really nice.
 
First; We could help you a whole lot better
if we know how much you have to spend.
Secondly; Buy a tractor with factory 3 point
hitch.
Your approximate location would help too.
 
For your first vintage tractor, I would recommend a Massey Ferguson 35 or 50 with 3 cylinder Perkins diesel. IMHO - old enough to count as a
classic tractor. Jumps out at me the styling is Streamline Moderne - which is a late Art Art Deco style. Prices are reasonable.

Modern enough to have an outstanding 3 pt hitch, live PTO, hi/low transmission giving 6 fwd gears and 2 reverse. Steering brakes, some with
power steering. Low profile, easy on/off tractors. VERY fuel efficient.

Plenty of power, super easy to service/maintain. Abundant parts availability and most importantly, a tremendous amount of tribal knowledge
beyond any dealer on great forums such as this.

A pic of my trusty MF50 diesel and MF32 sickle mower. Classic, modern - a workhorse, affordable - good as it gets IMHO.

Good luck,
Bill
a225065.jpg

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Hunt around and find a tractor mechanic or someone local that knows old tractors to help you in your search,you may have to pay them but I guarantee it'll be money well
spent.
 
Absoulty none of the above. First you need a good 3 point hitch and then a good live pto for what you are wanting to do. And for a tiller you will have to jump into the 80's perhaps the 90's to get a gear slow enough for a tiller. For the rest A Ford 661 or 860 or 861 all with live pto and 5 speed tranny, DO NOT get a 4 speed model. Massey Ferguson 35, 40, 50 135 or 150 even a 65 or 165, they can all be had with 6 speeds and live pto. Or as mentioned but harder to find an Oliver S55 or 550. Possibly a newer model that I am not familuar with. What ever you get DO NOT get a row crop with a narrow front end. For somebody that sounds like you are or the little fellow they are too dangerous. And most what you mentioned are in that catagorie except the small Fords and they DO NOT have the power or live PTO that you need for what you are wanting to do. And I do have two of the Fords and grew up with a Farmall H.
 
One thing for the OP who stated he would use it for snow removal, he would need to educate himself on diesel fuel and diesel engines for cold weather starting / use, especially depending on how cold it gets where he lives, this would be very important for a guy new to tractors.

Guessing the Massey 35 or 50 doesn't have glow plugs or an either kit on it? My experience with a 4 cyl Perkins diesel has been good for cold weather starting with a block heater and either kit(used when below about 10 degrees) so I'd think the 3 cyl Perkins may be a pretty good cold weather starter but I'm guessing you don't see many single digit or below zero temps to know?
 
Any diesel can be cold natured. The remedy is a coolant heater. The Perkins (at least mine) doesn't have glow plugs. I've seen generator diesel engines (for testing) soaked overnight at -40 degrees F and with a coolant heater (and maybe a magnet attached oil pan heater) start on the second crank. Pretty sure some of my coworkers have tested down to -50 deg F - the engine was a JD 3029.
 
I agree with the Massey Ferguson 35 for all the reasons given below. I had one a few years ago and all I did was plow snow with it and drilled holes for a small pole barn. I live on 1/2 acre. More tractor than I needed once the holes were drilled. That's a snowplow off a truck it uses the tractor hydraulics to lift it.
Massey Ferguson 35
 
I have a Ferguson TO-20, which I really like. Very good power for it's size. However, no live PTO, as mentioned, and no power steering. That makes it dangerous. So, for
the most part I taught my kids to drive the bigger JD 4020 with power shift & power steering. They only drove the Ferguson out on the hay field pulling a rake. And they
learned to drive the lawn tractors several years before the farm tractors, so they had a feel for machines.
 
If you use 3 point hitch implements they can be swapped
to any other brand of tractor that has the same category 3 PT.
So trading tractors in the future won't require buying new implements.
Some brands have proprietary implements. If you can find them.

Keep parts in mind too.
For example it's getting pretty hard to find parts for the Case S/D series.
Same with many of the off brands.
 
Read this all the way through and the thing that jumped out at med was your 5 yr old son . Do your tractor work but MAKE HIM STAY IN THE HOUSE!!!
 
Let me throw in the Minneapolis-
Moline. 335, 445, 4-Star, jet star
series are all live power and 3 point.
3 point is draft control system, but,
for a "learner" , it can be mastered.
With good ampli-torque, low gear low
range is under 2mph and all but 335
above 40hp. Just expanding options.
 
I have a 300 international utility with
3 point hitch, power steering,torque
amplifier, live pto. It does about
whatever I have ever tried to do with
it I do 10 acres of brush hogging pull
my fire wood out and plow the snow with
it. I have a 350 utility that is
equipped the same way and it does all
the same work. I actually put a 8'
front blade on it off of a truck and it
pushes snow very well. Put a set of
double ring chains on and it will push
the blade full of the wettest snow with
no sweat. Easy to work on for someone
with some mechanical ability. The 350
has been my dedicated snow plowing
machine the last few years. I'm by no
means a tractor mechanic and have put
clutches in both.
 
I would look for a tractor with 3pt hitch (can be added to and h for $500 or so aftermarket).

I would look for live hydraulics. (That can be added or might come with the H on the distributor shaft.)

For mowing with a brush hog live pto is much preferred.

Of your list, the 100 series Fords are the only ones that stand out. However, the x7x series is the SelectoSpeed and while it was a good idea in
the day, that automatic system had 3 clutches in it, several parts are hard to get any more, and they cost a fortune to repair. I would much
preference a x6x model of the 100 series Fords.

I would suggest you find better people to hang out with and advise you on tractor issues, I believe you are being steered in bad directions! :)

You could get an H to work for you with enough money, tho it will not have a live pto. The higher model Fords on your list would be great, but
you are taking a huge risk on that very old automatic transmission design and future $$$$. The N model Fords tend to be fondly remembered
and are overpriced for what they are. 70 years ago they were ahead of their time, but compared to a mid 1950s tractor they lack power, lack
gear selection, lack live hydraulics, lack live pto, are just generally much less of a tractor than what you could buy for about the same money.....

Paul
 
I have a Massey Ferguson 135 gas that i use for everything you just mentioned and i love it. Bought it cheap and
rebuilt it.
 
(quoted from post at 20:46:52 04/27/16)

For mowing with a brush hog live pto is much preferred.

Of your list, the 100 series Fords are the only ones that stand out.
I would much preference a x6x model of the 100 series Fords.

The N model Fords tend to be fondly remembered and are overpriced for what they are.
70 years ago they were ahead of their time, but compared to a mid 1950s tractor they
lack power, lack gear selection, lack live hydraulics, lack live pto, are just generally
much less of a tractor than what you could buy for about the same money.....

I'm a big fan of the N tractors Paul but I agree with you.
I bought my 960 for $1200 with one year on a rebuilt engine.
Its a trike and many people are needlessly afraid of them so they sell for less.
It is the go to tractor for running the rotary mower here. Hands down.

The N's do a great job at their intended purpose though.
I really enjoy hooking a plow to one and letting it run.
 
(quoted from post at 22:08:16 04/27/16) Every row crop Ford I've ever seen for sale was gone in less then a week. Non runner select o speed for $2000.
I've bought a few of them in the last few years. Bought this 4000 SOS for $1500.
This one even had dual hydraulic remotes. I moved those to my 960 though.
Rears tires were as you see, I had to change the front tires.
It is a trike also and as I said they tend to sell for less.
At that price I figured I could buy a wide front end if I wanted one.

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Yea let the kids stay in the house learn nothing, over eat, get obese and discover drugs because of boredom that's the way to go.Right? Kids are probably in more
danger riding to school in a car than riding on a tractor.
 
LOL. Somebody should have told my dad that. I started serious tractor time the summer between my kindergarten year and 1st grade. We had about 75 dairy cows and they liked to eat. A lot. So I learned how to drive a John Deere G with a New Holland 269 baler. I drove the tractor and baler (with no live PTO) and dad was packing bales on the trailer while my two other brothers were unloading and stacking bales in the shed.
While I've been called worse than a horror story, we had to do what we had to do. No, I wouldn't have any of my kids driving a tractor at that early of an age.
 
Okay, another question. If I throw out the tiller, won't the plow and disc do just as good a job at turning over the soil as the tiller?
 
Depends on your definition of "good." A tiller chews up the soil so smooth and fine that it can HINDER plant growth rather than promote it. A little water, then dries out, and it turns to concrete, which means no new moisture or oxygen can enter. Having the dirt a little rough is generally better.

One thing to keep in mind in your search is that the more modern features the tractor has, the more difficult it will be to repair when something goes wrong. If you are not mechanically inclined this often means paying someone more than the value of the tractor itself to fix it, or parking the tractor and letting it rot into the ground.

Something like a Farmall H is simple and a great platform to get your feet wet learning to work on old tractors. It has very few systems
 
At 5 years old kids are almost too big to ride on your lap. They love rides and with due caution IMO that's OK provided you are not working and it's just a ride. But should that kid fall off while you are working you may not get a tractor stopped before the get in an implement. All too often you hear about a kid getting run through a rotary mower behind a tractor or run over by a disk.

Rick
 
I'm in SWMO. As for price, honestly not sure. Maybe around 1k - 1500? Trying to remove some off the list and now adding on. LOL. Life of a rookie. But hey, that's why I'm on here to learn and get good advice on the direction I should go. I know that part availability will have an impact.
 
not an expert but stay away from the ford N series . i had one a 8n and the neighbor has a 9n . no live pto , a real pain bush hogging , brakes not too good . steers like a mack truck with no power steering . i got rid of the 8n and keep the ih 240u i had . i now have a ih 300u and a farmall 200 and the ih 240u. all have fast hitches .i have fast hitch implements and 3 point implements that i use with adapters . i really like the hydraulic hitch adjustments on the farmall 200 .
 
case parts are easy to find ,.,. you will never find a easier steering tractor in that era than the SC and DC with the steering arm ,I never have a problem hooking fences and or barn doors..and for tractor pulling novices the DC will do You PROUD at a tractor pull against all brands modern and old
 
Every one I said could be good is what can be called a row crop utility in that it is a low built tractor but with enough ground clearance for crop working. You are going to be teaching that boy to drive before long and that factor says stay away from a row crop tractor as they are harder to be safe learning to drive, once experienced they are safe but not for a newbe. A lot of mentioned tractors fall in that catagorie. The International 300 utility is a row crop utility, now the Farmall 300 is a full row crop but they have the 2 point hitch and some implements made for a 3 point hitch will not work with the 3 point from 2 point adapter. Same way with the AC snap coupler, A D14, D15 or D17 could do your job reasonably well but finding the correct implements could be a chalange and not all will work with the 3 point conversion. A bit taller than the other row crop utilitys but not as tall as most row crop tractors. Look for something that all posible 3 point tools will work with and if you do not have a loader you will wany a 3 poimt boom to help move things around. Just be safe but with your figures you would not find a running tractor around here, anything that is running decent and decent tires, even beat up, that would do what you want will be at least $3,000.
 
To give you idea on pricing month ago a barly running N Ford decent rear tires (only good thing on tractor) but even a patched hole in transmission and looked like a parts yard reject sold at auction for $850, The sheet metal was totaly trashed, no hitch parts. Non running tractors like JD A & B, Farmall H were selling for over a thousand, some over 2 thousand. So expect to pay over $3,000 for a good tractor with the gearing you need, 3 point hitch and pull for trailer drawbar and live PTO.
 
I started to reply to this yesterday, when you said "till" you could have meant disc. For plow, disc, and mow, a Farmall H works just fine. Tougher to use a snow plow without live hydraulics but you can do it.

Point is this: since you aren't earning your living with it, any of the old tractors will work fine. You don't need a three point, and not having live PTO is just not an issue mowing so long as you watch what you are doing. You should be watching anyway! I've never run a brush hog with live PTO and I've mowed through woods and brush and never had an accident. But I keep my mind on the job. It helps to not run it full speed and to not be in a big hurry.

Same thing with kids. Inattentive people kill their kids with tractors. If you pay attention you'll be OK. Near me a ten year old sitting on a Ford fender was brush hogged into little pieces when the fender fell off and the dad failed to stop the tractor. On a 50 year old tractor it is reasonable to replace the seat and fender bolts if you expect them to save your life, not just assume they are like new after sitting outside for fifty years.

I've never progressed past letter series Farmalls. I do have a couple of 400's and a 450D but they just don't get used on the farm. I really like that when something unexpected happens and I hit the clutch everything stops.
 
that is a valid argument,..i know that I and my brothers learned a lot about being safe at a tender age of 6 on the farm under dad and moms watchful eye .we learned common sense , responsibility ,animal husbandry ,street smarts , and learned how to budget our time,so we could till have fun and play . and we turned out fine
 
(quoted from post at 12:34:31 04/28/16) Yea let the kids stay in the house learn nothing, over eat, get obese and discover drugs because of boredom that's the way to go.Right? Kids are probably in more danger riding to school in a car than riding on a tractor.

NO, NO, NO! No 5 yr. old should be riding on a tractor or worse, operating one in any way. When he gets bigger and much older you can judge if he's able to handle the responsibility. Instill the fear of mutilation, pain and death on him if he mishandles a machine. It might save his life.
 
Ok, WOW, I'm actually making a list of pros/cons of mentioned tractors. I can honestly say that there's a lot that I didn't think about when choosing. I'm just glad that several of you brought up information that I hadn't thought about (3pt). My mind is literally spinning. LOL. Anyway. Looks like I've probably scrapped my initial list. Now, going to have to narrow it down or add/subtract from my list to get a tractor that will do everything that I need it to. My food plot is about 1-2 acres. I'll probably bush hog some lanes from the timber into the plot. I just can't see using a front loader for the work that I want to do. Which probably means that it'll get used after the fact. LOL. I know that I don't know a lot about small farming (actually nothing), but the only way to learn is to ask questions. Thanks for the patience that are probably common questions for all of you, but are new to me. I appreciate the help. If you see dust clouds here in SW Missouri, it might be my head spinning. LOL
 
OK, I'm going to jump in here yet again. If you plan on working a tractor I would fist take a look at the availability of implements in your area. Here for example towed implement like plows in the 1-2 bottom size range if tuff to find and are expensive for what you are getting. 3 point implements are available from many sources including new. Woods, Howse and others produce a variety of them.

So I would look for a tractor that has a factory 3 point although the aftermarket add will work.

Rick
 
As much as I love my 300/350 and 400/450 Farmall tractors, I believe if you are looking for one tractor that would do everything you listed and have a 3pt I believe that you would be happy with a Massey Ferguson 165. I have one that I use as my loader tractor. It has plenty of power for plowing with either a trailer plow or 3pt. It is large enough to meet what I believe all or the majority of your needs. However, for a truly good running machine with good rubber you will spend a bit more than you would on a Farmall or for that matter an N series Ford. I believe the 165 to be superior to the Fords in versatility and parts availability. In my opinion a great little tractor. P.S. it has a starting lock out that would be difficult for youngsters to figure out readily.....
 
On the Fords mentioned with the live pto that is the way they are made, full down everything stops, halfway down and only tractor motion stops and lets pto run.
 
(quoted from post at 09:26:39 04/28/16) case parts are easy to find
Where? I was looking for a manifold for an SC.
John Saeli had a [b:6915999887]used[/b:6915999887] one and shipped it to me.
No fault of John's, shipping costs what it costs, but for the price
of shipping that one I could have bought a [b:6915999887]new[/b:6915999887] Ford manifold.
With free shipping.
When that one rusts through the back side like they do, the
whole tractor other than the tires will probably go to scrap.

I'm looking for push rods and rocker arms for an SC now.
John couldn't help me this time so I'm basically looking for
parts tractors. CNH wasn't interested in trying to find them.

I had to special order valves for my Case 941 from the dealer.
$70 each and I had to buy at least two.
When they came in they were NOS in a cardboard box and rusted.

The V series doesn't seem to be so bad.
YT has some parts for those as well as other places.
They're certainly capable little tractors for the purposes listed.
Ugly as sin, but they work well! LOL

This is the SC with the used manifold on it.

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I have my mom's 1950 Farmall C. I love it for mowing the yard and pulling a dump
trailer. It would be a nicer tractor if it had 3 pt hitch.

So I purchased a Jubilee which has a 3 pt. I use it to mow, push snow, grade drive.
All around good tractor, but it would be nicer if it had live pto. I can't pull a dump
trailer with it, solid hitch is below pto shaft. No way can I install a ball.

Both my farmall and ford engines have been rebuilt, don't use oil, I've worked out all
the issues.

Like everything, each have good points. It really depends on what you plan to use the
tractor for.

If I were to buy another ford, I would be looking at the 600's and up. I would want a
3 pt if I got a farmall. 3 pts can do a lot of things.

Neighbor has a 1963 massey 35. That tractor has power steering, 3 pt, and live
hydraulics. I've worked out many of it's issues, nice tractor except I feel the seat
is a little low for me, but that could be fixed.

You need to figure out what you plan to do with a tractor first.

If you want a loader and hoe, get a backhoe.
 

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