What wold you use?

onefarmer · Mar 18, 2016

I have a 16ft stock trailer that the frame as it sticks out the front to the hitch is getting weak. Last time I loaded steers I put three in there and the frame bowed bad enough I took out one and gated the other two in the back.

Anyway I plan on making a complete new frame and set the trailer on top of it. Removing the axles and putting them on the new subframe.

I've been debating on what to use for the new frame. 4"or 6"channel, some kind of box steel.

onefarmer · Mar 18, 2016

Dang subject should have said <What "would" you use?>

onefarmer · Mar 18, 2016

Dang subject should have said What "would" you use?

casecollectorsc · Mar 18, 2016

IMHO 6" would be overkill, I'd use 5" channel iron.

D beatty · Mar 18, 2016

If it was me I would use the 6" channel. I would stay away from box frame because you can't paint the inside and they will rust from inside out.

casecollectorsc · Mar 18, 2016

One other thing I see with most trailers on the road, be it stock or flat trailers. People figure they have to run the tractor all the way to the front of the trailer and carry the bulk of the load on the pickup bumper. Let the trailer carry the load not the pickup.....same with stock trailers, one steer in front, one in the rear if large animals.

Janicholson · Mar 18, 2016

Box Tubing has torsional rigidity and channel does not. The issue with rust is moot if the tube is closed and dry inside. Where the frame bends together at the front, the twisting is worst. and leads to the weak spot in structure. Channel there is weaker by far. Jim

fixerupper · Mar 18, 2016

Take a good look at the rest of the trailer first. If the sides are rusting out where they meet the floor maybe another trailer is in order.

onefarmer · Mar 18, 2016

I'm not worried too much about rust. The rest will rust out before the new frame. I just need strong enough to carry the load. For some history, We have hauled 5 cull cows in the past. Currently I can't imagine hauling more than 4 steers.

ss55 · Mar 18, 2016

You could probably send your present trailer to an auction and buy a new trailer for less cost than rebuilding your trailer frame, especially if you include the cost of all your time.

I didn't notice the weight rating of the trailer. If you are designing a new frame, I wouldn't use anything smaller or thinner than what was on the original frame. Why is the frame failing: is it rusting out, is the frame cracking, is a joint coming loose, or is it overloaded?

In your state, would you reattach the original manufacturer's tag or would you have to license it as a home-made trailer?

jon f mn · Mar 18, 2016

What is the current material? Channel is better than tube in most cases for trailers for several reasons. If yours is currently angle then 4" channel will be more than enough. Pics are necessary to give any real useful advice. If you add a complete sub frame then there will be structural issues to deal with that will be more important than material choices.

Allan in NE · Mar 18, 2016

Honest Ingin,

I'd take that trailer, trade if for a goose-neck and never look back.

Just my 2?,

Allan

jon f mn · Mar 18, 2016

I've been building trailers for a long time and have never found a way to keep tube dry inside. Its not as simple as welding caps on the ends. Tubing is much more likely to rust that open type material.

jeffcat · Mar 18, 2016

I sprayed a mist of used oil inside. Cuts rust way down.

onefarmer · Mar 18, 2016

Current is about a 3" angle forming the V to the hitch. There is a smaller angle welded to the backside of the 3". I assume to reinforce the 3". The rounded front of the trailer, I think, is suppose to be part of the structure to help out the strength of the frame too, and it's just starting to get bad so it doesn't help at all. The rest of the trailer is in pretty good shape and would last for many more years. I just need like a subframe under it and thought I'd build a frame and set the whole thing on it.

Brent Zappe · Mar 18, 2016

This what I have learned about trailers. It can be repaired if you really love it but how much is it going to be? The right way is to do this take that old trailer and turn it in. A new trailer with a good frame and axles set stright in line will tow so much better than a half fast fix trailer. Just think that gives you the reason to get a longer trailer to haul more than what your hauling. One more thing if I was you I would go torque axles. They tow alot better than springs even when there unloaded. Why spend all that money on it when you got your money out of useing it. I had to replace a car trailer over here one year. I am glad I did get a new one instead of trying to fix the old one. The new one I had got had a winch on it and is a low boy hauler. You might say to torque axles are the best I should know I some times forget this trailer is behind my F 250 truck. I haul heavy tractors I do not qucik fix trailers because if I think it is done right and it is not every thing is all over a road and there is a world of hurt. More money to fix every body cars Sorry no old trailers and quick fixes ovr here at my house.

DoubleR · Mar 18, 2016

My old livestock trailer broke an axle right at the wheel. Then the wheel rolled down the road and hit a brand new Chev. Impala traveling behind me on I-75. I was thankful nobody got hurt but I was on the side of the expressway with five 500# feeders in the back. Cops came and was pretty understanding, lucky for me. Had to get a roll off wrecker to haul my trailer home with the steers in the back. It wasn't a good day.

Afterwards I ordered a new Corn Pro. Then put a new axle on my old trailer and sold it on Craig's list. I was lucky Ins. covered everything as it could have cost me allot more than the New Corn Pro tailer. Lesson Learned.

ditchwitch · Mar 18, 2016

To save you alot of headache i would just plate the inside and outside of the tongue with steel and weld it in.

Ozlander · Mar 18, 2016

(quoted from post at 11:09:43 03/18/16) Current is about a 3" angle forming the V to the hitch. There is a smaller angle welded to the backside of the 3". I assume to reinforce the 3". The rounded front of the trailer, I think, is suppose to be part of the structure to help out the strength of the frame too, and it's just starting to get bad so it doesn't help at all. The rest of the trailer is in pretty good shape and would last for many more years. I just need like a subframe under it and thought I'd build a frame and set the whole thing on it.

4" x 3/8 angle from hitch back to approx. first axle.

Ozlander · Mar 18, 2016

Welded to the original angle.

onefarmer · Mar 18, 2016

I've been leaning to 4" channel but I always get worried if it's enough. I'm like my dad was, if it calls for a 2x10 put in a 2x12.

What wold you use?

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