Rusted bolt removal

dwag

Member
Had a rusted platform bolt on an 806, so I cut the head off, removed platform and heated cast around bolt. Cast was glowing and still no go. Before cast cooled I melted candle wax around cast/bolt, let it cool and bolt came loose. Read this trick either here or New Ag Talk and it really works!
 
You read it here. Doesn't work every time but I have removed some pipe fittings and a bolt. They came out but take your time. Tried it on a big water fitting and ended up having to replace the fitting. About 80% plus. Also buy yourself a set on Commercial grade left hand drill bits. They work darn well too! Easy outs are a last ditch.
 
Never tried wax but welding a nut on the broken bolt then melting a big Ice cube on the center of the nut works rally well going to trying welding the nut on and then melting some wax on it next time
 
I have never tried candle wax but see it posted on YTMAG all the time. I think the fact you heated it and let it cool did more than the wax. When hot everything is expanded. The bolt is bigger and the hole is smaller. This crushes the rust. Let is cool everything shrinks down. What was locked in tight now has some room to move.
 
(quoted from post at 22:53:58 02/13/16) "Easy outs are a last ditch."

Or, more correctly, easy-outs AREN'T!

Here is proof, they DO work!

32883.jpg


I just can't remember how that shiny bright screw got broken.
 
After I removed the broken blot off of my easy out,I used to leave the broken bolt on top of my tool box.Some had came out easy,and others had been a challenge.I guess I saved them to remind me some jobs go better than others. Mark
 
I posted about using candle was a couple of months ago. I was trying to remove a 2-3/8 nut from the end of the square shaft on my Case bog harrow. Tried heat and beating on a long pipe on my breaker bar. Nothing. Heated it and let it cool until the candle wax didn't burn and melted some around the nut. Magic-- it unscrewed without using a pipe on the breaker bar. This is really an important trick to keep in the back of your mind. Ellis
 
I"ve posted here for years about the candle wax thing...has never failed me. For the naysayers that say it"s cuz of the torch heat....I"ve done it both ways....and when the torch heat fails, I use the wax. Last year I couldn"t use the torch on the Ford 4500 backhoe....spark plugs were deep within the head, and other combustible issues...ran the engine 2-3 times, applied candle wax each time...got the 2nd and 3rd plug out, knowing at least one would have twisted off in the head.
 
BTW- I advocate heating cast, rather than the bolt...same on manifold bolts, etc. Why? cuz bolts heat too quickly, turn red hot...cast takes more time, and holds what I call latent heat. Heat the cast til the bolt turns red...latent heat works on the cast, let the wax melt in...and the bolt turns out very easily. Heat the bolt red...it twists off before the threads loosen.
 
(quoted from post at 10:23:12 02/14/16) I like the square tapered easy outs.

Ross

Agreed. In fact the square ones are so much better than the spiral Easy Outs that I call the square ones extractors, to me they are entirely different.
 

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