1969 John 4020

My 4020 kills out every time I take a quick left turn, and runs real rough when I get on uneven ground. And after it gets hot it's hard to get it to crank again? Is it electrical or the injector pump or some along thoses lines?
 
Tim, I am going to go out on a limb here. After reading your symptoms several times, I am thinking you have a loose or shorting wire someplace. It could even be internal to the batter(s). Something is loose, the hard cranking when hot leads me to the batteries first. Also, could the batteries be shifting and a post shorting out. I say start simple, batteries first, then on to the wiring.

I cannot comment on the pump idea, someone else more into pumps will have to comment. Then again if the pump has an electric shutoff, inspect that.

I don't know the condition of your wiring but I worked on a 1967 4020 a couple years ago and the wiring was literally rotten. It did not take much convincing for the owner to buy a whole new harness from AgriServices.

By the way I had a similar issue on a garden tractor once. We looked and looked, finally it was a wire that rubbed through the insulation and only shorted when going up hill. I just had to mow it all downhill bothways, NOT. (-:

Good luck.

Paul
 
When hot and hard to get started, if it is turning over fast enough you may have a worn hydraulic head in the injection pump. A stanadyne pump that the governor weight retainer ring has completely disintegrated in can cause both of your issues if it has run that way for a long time.
 
Just reread the original post, missed the left turn part! don't think that would be an injection pump issue, probably is electrical if yours kills with the key...
 
What year is your 4020? Does the pump have a solenoid? I had a solenoid go bad once. I don't recall the symptoms but the local diesel shop guy gave me a means to do a temporary fix. It involved removing the solenoid and replacing it with something else, to depress the valve I believe. Maybe someone on here knows how to do this and can advise. If you did this temporary fix and the issues went away you would have the issue.

Obviously I am just guessing but trying to give you places to look.

Here's a thought, to check for wiring to the pump solenoid, take a VOM and connect it to the solenoid on the pump. Tape the VOM to a place you can view it when driving. If the voltage goes away when turning hard left you know it is in the wiring.

Paul
 
I am going to agree with 2510Paul. Sounds like a loose connection somewhere. I would start with checking the connection at the injector solenoid, and then the bulkhead connector right in front of the firewall. From there I would check under the dash. After that I would check volt drops while the engine is running. Wiggle the wires as you check voltages.

Jared
 

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