45 John Deere A

I am looking for a little advice. I am currently restoring my John Deere A and it has sat for about 10 years. The sleeves are slightly rusty about 1/4 from the top of the cylinder and Im having troubles finding new. Cylinders seem to seal good but I am concerned about combustion pressure on top! Do I just clean them up and run it or does anyone know where i can find a new set? Any help will help me greatly thanks!
 
If the ridge/rust is above the rings,dont worry.Just Run a reamer around to clean it up.I will probably get flamed,but that is
what I would do.
 
You are not farming 'hot n heavy' with it.Just a little pulling and a bit of paradeing? You can get by with a lot.I have an(hot rod) F12 (2.8L V6)
that was stuck.It's my pulling and parade tractor.Simply honed it well. one cylinder has some pits still. Doesnt seem to effect it in the least. That(JD'A') is a slow
revving engine,tolerances are not as tight or as critical as a modern engine. As long as there is no ridge to catch a ring,no
worrys.
 
No sleeves in the G either. We had it bored for oversized pistons, but then it opened a sand hole in the block that soon blew out and flooded the cylinder with coolant.
 
I would just do the sandpaper bit on it, just get the rough rust off and forget it. More of what you need to think about is how wore are the cylinders, close to needing oversize pistions? I had my 51 A bored for oversize as block was too worn for standard rings. But that was back in early 70's and tractor was big tractor on the farm and heavy use all the time. I overhauled a 10 horse Kohler in shop chass one time, the rings had been stuck long enough one side of cylinder was just groves up and down. Could not get cylinder to clean up with hone. Instructor said it would have to be bored, I said no, am putting back in with just new rings and did and it ran fine for over 10 years till top of piston broke off in a ring grove. Now remember that was still the orignal piston and the rings were so stuck the they had to be pried out of the groves and after they were out a grove cleaner would not clean up the grove things were so hard in there. So pistion may have been dammaged at that time. Engine ran fine untill piston broke and did not use oil. And rember teacher said it would not run without boring and getting that cylinder smooth. So as long as new rings fit tight in cylinder bore just sandpaper the rust best as you can and put together.
First engine I ever worked on was a Brigs lawn mower engine and it got using oil so bad it would not run more than a couple of minutes, this was back in 60's and mowers then were not the throwaway items they are now. Dad took it to shop to get repaired and brought it home in a box. I thought before we just junked it I would see if I could figure out how things went together I would do it to see if I could. I had no new parts or tools to hone or anything. Studied and finally figured out how it looked like it should go together and did that. I knew knothing about putting rings in an engine but looking at them I decided I thought the ring gaps should be spaced around the piston so I did that. Used old head gasket. After I did get it together decided to see if it would run. Started up and ran perfectly and did not use any more oil, this was with the old rings and cylinder did not have glaze broken. Evidemtly rings moved enough for gap to lign up and that caused the oil usuage. Used for years and then sold at auction running. So things do not have to be as perfect as a lot seen to think.
 
Normally there are not sleeves in those blocks. But they could of been bored out and added ?
Only 1/4" from the top ? The pistons don't even go up that far and the rings are farther down yet so it might not even be an issue.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top