D7 17a clutch adjustment

Chancebq

New User
So I recently purchased a 17a. I did a job for a farmer tramping and piling about 60 hours. I noticed after about 25 hours after starting the tractor in the morning I could not get it into gear. The clutch didn't seem to be doing anything. I then started warming up the tractor for a few minutes then kill the engine put it in gear and fire it back up and take off. Once the tractor warmed up it seemed like the clutch worked fine but near the end of the day it seemed like when going forward to back it somtimes would not want to go into gear. A simple slight movement of the clutch back and forth slightly and it would go in. It's never slipped while pushing some impressive loads. I believe it's a wet clutch as there is a dip stick through the floor boards. I was told a simple adjustment will fix the issue but I'm not sure if I adjust the linkage or on the clutch itself. Also if it is on the clutch itself what direction to adjust and how much?
 
go to the 'crawlers, dozers. loaders, backhoe' section of talk forums--guys there can be more help, but from what I remember, you pull a plate on clutch housing below floorboard & turn large ring on press. plate. a scale is sometimes used to measure how many #s to 'snap' it in. CLUTCH BRAKE involved also
 
From the years of previous experience with both a D-4 and an old traxcavator Equal to a D-6 it can just be the gears need to turn just a bit to be aligned to shift. It doesn't need to be the clutch. If it snaps in good with a definite over center snap to it I would say it is fine. Some of the newer ones like our 10A1 Traxcavator has a clutch brake. That could be more your problem than the clutch.
 
I think those older dozers had a clutch brake to slow the movement of the gears, push forward on the
clutch lever to apply that brake.
 
Previous series, 3T prior to the change to factory oil/wet clutch in the early 50's (and I forget the change over serial number now) They made 28,000+ of those tractors and it was in the mid 20,000s of the run, when the oil clutch was standard for 3T's followed with the same for 17A's(there was a field change over kit for previous tractors). The dry clutch definitely had a clutch brake, its much a smaller plate than the 2 plate master clutch. I'd have to do some looking in various manuals for a wet clutch parts diagram, if I have any that show it. Most of my books are for older series with a dry type clutch. On those there was an adjustment collar that you would unlock and spin to adjust the master clutch, and there was at least 2 types of those adjusters as I recall. The key to those was to get that crisp snap-over at the lever when pulled back, Forward was to apply the clutch brake. I've experienced similar to what the poster described on these and it did help to get the RPMS low as possible for a moment or 2 while trying to shift in addition to pushing the lever forward. I can't say if any of this applies to the later oil clutch, but a 17A serviceman's reference book,(service manual is the title for this series) and parts catalog that match the tractor serial number run would surely explain this accurately. Good used originals are usually best, I never cared for spiral bound photocopied by aftermarket sellers
D7 17A books on ebay
 

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