Pto cross assembly...

paul · Feb 2, 2016

So, you put a pto cross together with a new cross. A tedious affair....

But you find one side of the pto, the yoke, got squished while taking the old cross out.

So the two sides are maybe 3/8 inch too narrow on a bigger sized 540 assembly.

What is a good way to get the yoke spread back out again to proper width?

The press does a good job squishing them together if you aren't paying attention, but how do you re spread em?

My head isn't quite seeing the easy button tool on this task, I'm not sure heat is a good idea and don't want to start with the biggest hammer approach until I think this through....

Sigh, one of those days.

Paul

vscummins · Feb 2, 2016

I take a hammer and smack the ear to open it up a little I do this whenever I put a u joint in so they are not so tight

Eric in IL · Feb 2, 2016

How about a long round bar slightly smaller than the hole and use the bar to pry the ear back into place ?

pete 23 · Feb 2, 2016

Whoa, 3/8th is a whole lot. With no special tool, I would put a large bolt with nut, a flat washer or flat iron. Thread the nut on fully to just the length it fits inside yoke. Proceed to turn the nut off bolt and hope it will spread it out evenly. Using a hammer on the ears while doing this. Then run a shaft the same size as the hole through the ears for alignment. I rarely use a press when removing or installing the cross. Mostly vise and hammer. External snap ring joints are the worst kind. Much more difficult to assemble and get a nice free joint than the internal snap ring type.

Bill VA · Feb 2, 2016

IMHO - there ain't no easy way. If you're off even a tad bit, the yoke holes are no longer concentric.

The jackleg I bought my tedder from last year had ran the PTO shaft on both ends with the bearings shot. The cross was rattling around and the neddle bearings were long gone. From the hammer marks on the yokes, looks like he "fixed" it.

I wound up buying a new PTO shaft.

Another topic - but will post here....

I generally like TSC, but when it comes to PTO shafts - their prices are out of this world. Found an Agri Supply and the prices are MUCH lower.

YMMMV
Bill

paul · Feb 2, 2016

Yea, or a square shaft. Ah, the rock pry bar.... That would keep me out of harms way, apply slow pressure instead of just beating or jacking on it and getting too far too fast the other way. Hummmmm.....

Paul

01gentdc · Feb 2, 2016

that has worked for me ,.. the important thing is to tap the yoke legs while in tension

paul · Feb 2, 2016

Yea, I know its a hit and miss thing. Its probably not 3/8 inch, just feels like it.

Its the short side, with a shear pin built into it so likely not gonna be on a supply store shelf, fortunately the Weasler part number is cast into it so I can source out a new one if still available before totally wrecking this one.

Yea I can just bypass the shear pin and replace with a square shaft setup off the store shelf on the snow blower, but I know how that turns out down the road....

Paul

paul · Feb 2, 2016

Good idea too. Yup, this is my first external one, I've done an assortment of internal clipped ones, they seemed easier to deal with.

I'm not really sure how I collapsed it using the press to take it apart, that would have been spreading pressure really. Perhaps I have found the reason it failed to begin with, and I'm just the innocent bystander to it all!

Paul

old-9 · Feb 2, 2016

Use a long threaded rod or bolt , put one end through the yoke. Thread two huts with washers on the rod far enough to extend through both sides of the yoke. then with 2 wrenches spread the yoke. It has to be perfect! wish you luck joe

Janicholson · Feb 2, 2016

I would put the old bearing cap back in the hole. put that in a bench vice so the jaws were gripping the inside and outside of that old cap, then use a bar in the yoke to bend it straight. Jim

K Effective · Feb 2, 2016

How about two wedges from opposing sides?

I have proven myself so incompetent with cross replacement that all mine go to the pros about two miles away. Cheaper than replacing ruined yokes...the one guy does it while I wait for $5!

rrlund · Feb 2, 2016

I put them over the horn of the anvil and use it for a wedge.

Pair-a-dice farm · Feb 2, 2016

I use a piece of all thread and put 2 nuts and washers in the middle of the yoke. Then just tighten the nuts and spread the yoke apart.

mazemeister · Feb 2, 2016

i always do u joints with a bench vise and a couple sockets, one a little bigger than the bearing, one a little smaller. when the yoke needs "adjustment," just crank up the vise the right way and give a few whacks with a hammer and punch.

JMS/.MN · Feb 2, 2016

Blackhawk porto-power has a hydraulic wedge that can spread that apart. google shows the kit.

Bob · Feb 2, 2016

There's NO excuse to mangle and deform a u-joint yoke to replace the cross and bearing cups.

Even if you can get the damaged yoke spread enough to accept the new cross and cups the damage will probably cause some wobble and vibration in the driveline.

NEXT time, cut the "cross" out with a cutting torch, then let the yokes with the bearing cups still in them cool to ambient.

Slosh some "loosen juice" on them and 90+% 0f the time they can be easily tapped out of the yoke.

Then, clean the bores in the yoke up with emery clutch just enough to remove any rust and debris, but don't get wild and remove metal.

Slather the bores where the cups go up with 90 gear oil (to prevent galling) and tap the new cups in place, then install the snap rings.

Pto cross assembly...

paul

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vscummins

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Eric in IL

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pete 23

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Bill VA

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paul

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01gentdc

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paul

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paul

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old-9

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Janicholson

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K Effective

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rrlund

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Pair-a-dice farm

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mazemeister

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JMS/.MN

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Bob

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