Sway Blocks vs Sway Links

2510Paul

Well-known Member
I am not sure of the correct terminology, but on todays tractors I see at least two ways of controlling the sway of the 3 pt. arms. Sway Blocks are like the JD 4020 has. Many newer and often smaller tractors have Sway Links that are either chains or some form of turn buckle from the tractor axle housing to the 3 pt. arm.

What are the pros and cons of these alternatives. In particular I am thinking of a mounted plow. When the plow is down you want the plow to track properly due to its own draft and the 3 pt. arms to be able to move right and left. In the raised position you want the plow to be stabilized right and left so it is not banging right and left as you travel over rough ground or hills.

I have also noticed the larger tractors seem to use blocks, the smaller tractors links.

Comments?

Thanks. Paul
 
I agree, larger use blocks, smaller use chains. After enjoying the simplicity, durability, and ease of using sway blocks, I don't like anything else.(My first experience was spring 1966 with a brand new JD 2510). How often have you seen tractors with busted, bent, rusted, missing, etc. chains/arms or links? Fortunately I only have one tractor small enough that it has chains, and I purchased it new enough there was no damage/corrosion.
 
Larger IH tractors used sway bars for many years on their 3 point arms. My late model Kubota has sway bars also and it is rated at 95 HP. You can adjust the sway arms to easily accommodate different sized implements.
My JD tractors use sway blocks {elephant ears} to control the sway from the 3 point arms. To keep the arms from flopping around I use either a small chain or a bungee cord to hold them against the blocks.

Which is better?
 
Hard to get sway blocks tight enough for snowblowing in reverse, blower wanders back and forth and when it's snowy and that is your only reference you end up driving in squiggly lines. Old ih check chains are the same way.
 
We had turnbuckles on a smaller challenger tractor, and while they work, you can adjust them, to me, they are about the most worthless piece of hardware one could select for this purpose, I'd rather have check chains. The turnbuckles are subject to dirt and moisture, can easily seize up without regular and proper care, cleaning and keeping some kind of lube on the threaded ends that won't attract or have anything stick to them. Adjusting them can be a pain, they get stiff and if I recall, ours had a nut on each side of the turnbuckle to act as a stop once set. So, those exposed threads need to be cleaned. The barrel of the turnbuckle had small handles on it to provide some grip, they were soon broke off. While you could use a pipe wrench, no room to work and the teeth of the wrench will gouge the steel, leaving marks all over, I don't like treating things like that myself. They are not much different than a top link, just a lot smaller with much smaller threads. I would never have them on a small tractor ever again, they are absolutely the most aggravating and worthless part of the 3 point hitch, which mind you, if you don't control the sway of those lift arms, on that tractor it would break off chunks of the tire lugs. Things are way too narrow on these tractors, so their is not much sway room anyways. Set those turnbuckles to keep the arms and implement straight, works nice for that, but you'll have to adjust them again to get the darned implement back off again, because the arms don't have enough sway to clear the lift pins on the implement. For this kind of hitch, you would want flange connections on all your implements, so the lift arms stay centered and all you do is back in, then pin the implement to them in the center of the flange. I think I would have made my own blocks for this tractor or changed these to something that works, these clearly did not once the tractor had some hours on it.

In stark contrast and a larger tractor like the Ford/New Holland 4630 I bought early last summer, the lift arms have blocks or telescoping square tube steel, with substantial connections and built of thick steel, they are a pleasure to use, just adjust them, pin in place where you want it and that's it. Even the pin has a holder outside the adjustment holes, they have safety chains and the whole arrangement works as it should without any problems at all. Nothing to seize up from dirt, dust and moisture. Nothing to maintain, clean or lubricate, they work just fine !!!
 

After being associated since the 60's with JD tractors utilizing sway blocks then buying a Kubota that utilizes telescoping sway bars that can be set at several different dimensions plus pinning so as not bang around when nothing is attached(no need for bungee cord) I'll vote for sway bars with the multiple holes.
 
One thing to look at is the mass of the implement that is attached to the tractor. The larger the tractor the larger the implement. One would have to use very large chains or links to control the sway of an implement on a larger tractor. One thing I noticed is that the chain links on a JD 855/955 are already at about a half inch diameter. If sway chains were used on lets say an articulated four wheel drive, the links of the chains would have to be several inches across to withstand the forces applied by the implement. On these tractors, I feel that there is not enough real-estate for these sway chains. The other thing to look at is that bolting on a piece of cast iron is probably more cost effective and uses less real-estate than the chain set up would.
 
As a KUBOTA dealer I have watched the evolution of the system we now use on the kubotas. Earlier had the trun-buckel chain set up which as Billy said was prone to not be adjusted then failed. The current sliding tube with adjustable pins seems to work . The size of the tube changes as the horsepower of the tractor goes up. When we get up to the higher horsepower 100+ tractors may have to come up with something else.
 
Our JD 4600 has links, and since we primarily use it for mowing and brush cutting, it works well. I usually pull the cutter over to the right so it will mow outside of the tire to keep the trails full width. I don't think you could do that with blocks. One thing I have noticed is the hole that I use the most is getting worn (850hours) and I might have to repair it someday.
 
My 06/56 IH use sway 'links'.They allow sway/flexibility while in the ground,yet tighten up to prevent sway while implement is lifted.They hold/work on different widths equally well.They can be pinned if you want/need rigidity while in the ground. they get a bit sloppy with some wear,but are still acceptable
 
If you use a quick hitch and then adjust the linkage to that it should be good for the rest of the life. I personally don't like 3pt implements.
 
I would think you could simply shim the swayblocks or move the pins to takeup the slack. I would also think the chains could be adjusted in some way as well.However,a slight bit of 'modification' may be in order,but not complicated or problematic.
 
either does the job mostly which is to control side to side movement of whatever you have on the hitch one problem i have is with the sway blocks on the john deere i have there are to old implements that will not hook up on the 3 point arms unless i take one off, which kind of defeats the purpose my smaller tractors have sway bars, which work well except on my post hole digger which has to have one removed or it wont hook up, the turnbuckle on my little john deere works well and allows adjustment if needed but due to its location its kind of a pia to adjust with the implement attached, pick whatver works on your tractor some dont have the space or mounting for the blocks ect
 
(quoted from post at 14:04:55 11/28/15) one problem i have is with the sway blocks on the john deere i have there are to old implements that will not hook up on the 3 point arms unless i take one off, which kind of defeats the purpose

Only type implements that won't attach to most JD's with sway blocks in place are either Cat 0 or Cat lll. All Cat l & Cat ll implements will fit with sway blocks attached either narrow or wide position
 
I have gone to using springs from the local ACE hardware store. They have springs large enough and with the right tension to work fairly well. So far I have found short cable lengths with a cable clamp work the best to attach the springs to the lift arms. I will try and remember to get a picture. Paul
 
Thanks everyone for your comments, very good comments. I will try and remember and get Mr. 2underage some pictures of the springs I use on my JD's to hold the arms to he sway blocks when not in use. Paul
 

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