Changing rear tire question

chas036

Member
I have a JD 720 with 15.5 x 38 rears with 50% tread. They are not loaded. One of the tires has a 2 inch cut in the tread right on top of tire tire and now the cut has opened far enough down to show the tube and I have a flat. I don't really want to replace the tire, so is there a way to repair it from the inside after I take the tube out?

Also is there an easy way to break the bead after jacking up the tire so I can get the tube out? Is there a simple tool I can rent or buy to do this?
 
You can use a Boot s large heavy tire patch and tire cement. I have broke many beads with a handyman jack. Drive another tractor along side it too jack against or a pickup bumper. Leave the wheel on the tractor it will be easier.
 
You could try a boot in the tire but if its ripping I wouldn't put
much hope in the boot holding.

I use one of these to break the beads. It works pretty well.
Tire guys have an air powered equivalent that works better.

Little Buddy
 
Once you break the tire loose and remove the front side, then the tube, you can add a boot, which will hopefully stop the gash from spreading and more importantly protect the tube. May not last. There are several types of tire breaker for that purpose. One like I have works similar to a pile driver. Later type tires usually have a cutout near the rim somewhere that allows for a large heavy hoe like hammer to strike and will effectively pop loose the tire if not completely rusted to the rim. There are some types of jacks made for that purpose but I never tried one, supposed to be very slow. Longer number of years tire has been on and rim condition mean a lot, rust sticks to tire and tube, making it hard to remove either.
 
A tire boot is just a real large thick tire patch. They can be a foot in diameter and 1/4 inch thick.

You did not say where your at but if it is cold there you will need to get the tire warm to really do a very good job repairing it. Also if it is warmer it will come off the bead easier too.
 
I've had pretty good luck breaking beads off rusty wheels with a 25 pound electric chiphammer. Seems to break seal without damaging wheel better than straight pressure (think air impact on frozen bolts).
 
I live in upstate NY so I will have to wait till spring I think. Right now it is in the 40s, so the tires are solid and unflexible. Also what about the inside bead? I have a handyman jack and a JD 730 I can use to jack against for the outside bead.
 
I break them down with steel wood wedges. The kind you'd use to split wood with a sledge. Do you have tire irons to get it off the rim after you get the bead broken down? You'll get some ideas if you search "Changing rear tractor tires" on Youtube.
 







































The handyman jack will work on the inside bead also. Jack against the rear end housing or drawbar or whatever is heavy. 75 degree weather is a plus when working tires.
 
A tire boot is a large 'patch' with fiber/cord in it.A chunk of tire liner may also be required.A rip/tear as you describ may not be fixable.A new tire may be required.Even then the patch may not hold. I use a handyman jack to break beads. Wrap a small chain around the tire and place the jack between the tire and chain and jack/push the tire from the rim. On the inside bead,push against the drawbar if possible,if not use the chain.Use lots of lubricant(dishsoap). I would however,recomend you take it to a farm tire shop. For 20 bucks they can repair the problem.They have the tools,and 'knowhow' to do the job.Go watch them a few times(and ask lots of questions) before you attempt this on your own.You sound like you have never done anything of this sort.If you know what you are doing,easy,no problem. If not,a nightmare.Be careful.And safe!
 
My dad had a similar problem with a rear tire. He took it to a repair place and they "vulcanized" it. I replaced that tire....about 30 years later. That wasn't the reason for the replacement.
 
Sometimes a boot will work and sometimes not. I had one that was cut on the side wall about 6 inches long and the guy at the coop said that it was too old of a tire to vulcanize, so he said all he could do was boot it. After he booted it every time the tire came around it would bulge where the boot was. I then learned of a shop that did vulcanize tires and took it to him. that was 6 years ago and the tire is still as good as new.

Bob
 
I booted a tire on the 8430 with a similar gash. The tire guy at the Co-op was iffy, but that tractor isn't worth new tires. It works just fine.
 
yes, and No. Yes, the tire can be patched easy enough. No, you can't do it yourself. Tire repair should only be done by those properly trained. I agree it is not complicated and anyone with half a brain could learn to repair tires properly. But I would not have confidence in an online tractor forum for your education.
 
I know this won't suit most peoples taste but I remember yrs ago seeing boots bolting in place with carriage head bolts so it could not move. This also strengthened it tying the boot and tire together with more than just glue.
 
First if you are going to wait till spring to fix then get proper tire handling tools if you plan to change a few tires, second you can boot it, but the problem with the boot is the tube will rub on it and after a year or so you will have another flat! So it is best to get another tire with a good case, find a set of duals at a sale or new tires!
 
That was common in the 40s......I acctually did that once in about 2000. It worked! got me by till I sold the tractor.
 
find another used tire and have it put on be done with it. time you try save few bucks and time spent doing it could have it done in 1/4 time and be done with it. other wise how many times you want keep doing this,
 
When I have to change a rear tire in the winter I break the bead outside, then roll the tire and wheel into the converted barn where we live. It is easier to pry the tire over the edge of the rim when it is warm. We have concrete floors downstairs anyway, if you have normal floors you might want to see if you have a friend with a heated garage or such.
Zach
 
Handyman jacks are head bangers! You have another tractor- got a helper? Have him hold a 4x4 post against the bead while you push forward with the tractor. Multiple spots. I like using the skidloader for that- just push with the bucket, can do it alone.
 
I did that once, I hauled the tire and the fluid to them, they broke it down, put in a tube and put in the fluid I had brought, then charged me $180. I am too cheap to do that again if
I can help it.
Zach
 
I traded for a new tractor back in 1992, 20.8x38's, 3rd day ran a stob through the edge of tread above the side wall, on the left dual, fixed it with a BIG BOOT and a tube, still holding air and working fine. This is on my main work tractor, 9190 Deutz Allis, does all the heavy work and grain cart. Also had a NEW 11rX22.5 on my semi vulcanized and it lasted and wore out with the other 7 tires.
 
(quoted from post at 22:37:21 11/22/15) I did that once, I hauled the tire and the fluid to them, they broke it down, put in a tube and put in the fluid I had brought, then charged me $180. I am too cheap to do that again if
I can help it.
Zach

The shop I called came out with a nice big truck with everything on it. I wanted Rim Guard in my tires instead of the calcium that was in them. They pumped out the old fluid, removed the tires and tubes, cleaned and painted the rims, then put them back together with new tubes, and pumped them full of beet juice. One tire had these little pin holes in them that I never noticed. They dug all the thorns out of the holes for me. They told me that if they didn't the thorns would eventually work their way into the tubes and start a slow leak. All this cost me $606.00. Well worth it considering all the work it saved me, now and in the future.
 

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