Farmall Super A - Whats next?

McDuff

New User
I have inherited a Farmall Super A. It did run and the engine is free. It has been indoors for six years. I would like to know what I need to do - step by step, please - to get it going again?
I am not an old tractor aficionado, so be kind to me for my ignorance on this subject.
 
Check and clean the fuel system , then check and clean the
electrical system then I would remove the valve cover and
rock each valve down with the rocker arm to make sure you
don't have one stuck then and only then crank her up and
tune to your liking.
 
Good advise from KUB6040 I might add to remove the spark plugs and give each hole a shot of oil. Then with the spark plugs out turn the engine over. This will prevent dragging the pistons on a dry cylinder and turning the engine over removes any excess oil. May not be right but its the way I do it.
 
All good advise . My dads set 12 years when I inherited it .
I also changed all plugs , sparkplug wires , points , cap
rottor , battery cables , oil filter , and any major wiring
cracked that would effect start up . Its hard to be patant
but I also removed and cleaned carb and gas tank . Changed
engine oil after 1 hr. run then after 10 more hr. H fired up
and is used the last 3 years on our place . It pulls and runs
great . Only thing I should have done was add 1 inch extension
to the top of sediment bowl for filter of rust . After three
years and flussing gas tank every few months it may be clean
and now I keep it full . Its 18 deg. this morning and it should
start right off and it is still 6 volt .
 
I would change the oil before startup since you don't know what it was before sitting and now you have years of condesation in there. Also dont forget to check the air cleaner and intake system as mice and bugs like to make nests there.
 
Begin by putting a fresh battery in it.
clean up all the contacts, i.e., the terminals and the opposite ends of the battery cables.
as was mentioned above, pull the plugs and add oil to each of the cylinders. after a few minutes sitting, turn the engine over to get the cylinder walls coated with oil. When it does fire up it will smoke like crazy until all the excess oil burns off.
It will serve you well to purchase a repair manual for your Farmall too.
Now you can go after things like the points and condenser. a good cleaning of the points may be enough to fire it up but new ones are cheap and well worth replacing. Replace the distributor cap. if it is cracked it will not work but you may not be able to see the crack replace the rotor as well. Get someone to turn over the engine while you watch the points to see if you have any spark.
Disconnect the fuel lines from the tank and flush the tank. you can shine a flash light in there and see to some extent just how nasty the job will be. You can even use the garden hose to flush it if you dry it adequately afterward. I generally heat the tank afterward with halogen work lamps aimed at the exterior and it works fine. While you are waiting for the tank to dry, pull the carburetor off and clean it on the bench. if you disassemble it carefully, you may well be able to save the gasket. A carburator rebuild kit is readily available for that machine and not expensive.
These are the basics to get it to fire up but it is important to replace all the fluids including the antifreeze. plug wires, and the radiator hoses.
Eventually, pull the drain plug on the rear end and the bull gears to be sure water has not seeped in over the last 50 years. Have fun with the project! Nothing will make you happier then when it fires up that first time!
 
If it where me I would put a couple table spoons of ATF in each cylinder and let ti soak a day or so to free up the rings which are likely to be sticking. While waiting in the ATF to free things up I would clean or replace the points and also drain out the gas tank if it has any old gas in it. Also maybe drain the carb and spray carb cleaner in the carb to clean up any rust in it.
 
I like all the advice others give but would like to suggest a slightly different approach in a couple of areas. Check every inch of air intake for mud dauber,wasp and rat nests. Manys a good engines have been ruined when nests were sucked in and sent through cylinders. Before changing crankcase oil,put transmission fluid instead of motor oil in plug holes then alow to sit overnight or while you are checking out other things. Some of the fluid might find it's way passed worn/stuck rings into crankcase and polute fresh oil. After cylinders have soaked in trans fluid overnight,turn engine through at least one full revolvolution by hand WITH PLUGS REMOVED then turn a few revs with starter to blow out excess trans fluid before putting plugs in. I would clean and gap old plugs for use during first hour or two of operation. No sense gooking up new plugs burning off all the oil/trans fluid in cylinders. It is a good idea to have working guages on any engine but twice as important on newly overhauled or bringing out of moth balls engine. Catching low oil pressure or overheating quickly can save an engine.
You inheriated a fine machine in the Super A.
 
I would add that to pay attention to how it is timed. My '39M is not timed as it came from the factory (1-3-4-2) so I just change out 1 plug, 1 wire at a time. I know I should retime it someday, but it runs good the way it is.
 
Check the steering for tightness. It could have the older square ended vertical shaft in the steering box. If it does it's gonna be sloppy. If it has the tapered shaft, theoretically it will tighten up. But it could have other problems in the steering, Loose tierod ends, keyway in the vertical shaft worn, Key worn, bearings shot and I'm sure others could tell you other problems. Take heart tho, it's not that expensive to fix. I got most of the parts off Ebay. It's a real nice small tractor, I've got one in the shed now.
 
Six years is not a long time, especially being kept indoors. If it was in good repair before, it will still
be good now.

As others said, fresh battery, a little oil in the cylinders, spin it through with the plugs out. Drain the
gas, change the oil and coolant, check all the other fluids, air up the tires. Look over the hoses and
belt.

When you gas it up, pull the drain plug on the carb, let it flush the bowl, make sure there is flow.
Replace the plug and be sure the carb doesn't overflow (flood).

Check for spark at the plugs, if no spark clean the points.

Once it's running, be sure it makes oil pressure! Sometimes the oil pump will loose prime when sitting. If
no pressure, shut it down! It will need to be reverse primed, a process of wetting the gears with oil by
pumping oil backward through a galley port.

You will want to continue checking other components as you run it and familiarize yourself with the
tractor. You may encounter a "stuck" clutch. If the clutch won't release, it's rusted to the flywheel and
pressure plate. It can usually be freed up by driving it with the pedal down.

Any problem you encounter, we can talk you through, keep us informed... Good luck!
 

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