1960 730D pony (need some expert advise please)

I have recently bought a 730D wide front with pony. After replacing the burned up wiring from a pinched wire the previous owner left me, the motor fired right up and ran great. Everyone always refers to the smoke of a running pony as " doesn't smoke any worse than any other one" Well this one certainly does smoke! Worse than that, it leaks motor oil out all the exhaust connection all over the other motor. Even worse, I let the motor run at full speed to warm up for a oil change and it blew all it's oil out from somewhere around the little engine, and all the exhaust connections. By the time I pulled the drain plug, not one drop came out!!! Here's the questions part:
1) how much smoke is alot. It turns the barn blue.
2) how can it run so well if rings are that bad?
3) are there seals that can be changed at exhaust connection to reduce leakage?
4) Is there a blocked crankcase breather somewhere causing backpressure to blow oil out?
5) what is the decent cranking compression

I would appreciate any help and advice from someone who has been around these for a little while.

just a dum country boy here that learnt mechanix at hard knox school .. ok, so don't let me misled you ,.. LOL .. does the motor have any power to crank the motor ?? ,sitting without load they mite run just fine ..,,,if the rings are stuck , mite try lucas fuel additive and engine oil stabilizer,.. not sure why it is belchin out its life blood and smoking ,, but that aint normal ,,. I recall hand cranking the pony motor on a old d 6 with cable lift , when it was cold , we let that pony really run up wild ,, then engaged the starter and she chugged and chugged and chugged until the ol D -6 white belches of smoke started to blacken and it was a firing and misfiring , til it was crankin off on its own and the pony motor started getting strength and momentum again ,. don't recall ever using ether , but we probably did.. it was neat ..

There's a whole lot of reasons for the starting engines to lose oil.

Since this is a rather specialized setup, mostly only found on John Deere two cylinder diesels, I'm gonna venture to guess you will get the most info/help by posting on the DEERE-specific Board.

Well if the pony runs and starts the big engine you may not want to spend the BIG dollars to clear up the smoke ?
And the reason you did not see any oil come out is because it is to drain into the diesel engine. You need to change it too. And the big engine has 2 drain plugs one near the middle by the oil filter and one off to the left side under the timing cover.

Go with New Oil in everything and see...

You never know if the Pony engine may have been running on fuel mixed with oil for a 2-stroke chainsaw or something..

I would change the fuel in the tank for the Pony..

I NEVER allow my pony to run at "High Idle"..that may be 6,000RPM...!!!

Actually, I have mine slowed to probably 4,000 or so for top RPM and after it warms up some, I idle it down before I engage the Big Motor.. done this way, they will seldom grind the gears..and it has plenty power to wind up the Big Motor..

It does sound like it may be time to remove and Clean the engine Breathers and replace a few gaskets..

A Little at a time and you will get ahead of it...!!

Ron..

You need the operator's manual, the service manual and the parts manual on the JD web site. The starting engine oil drain is just one example .

I believe, it's been many years now.. that you may have a fuel shut off/on diaphragm problem. How/why it empties the pony crankcase is a mystery, but I
suspect that it may be at least part of your problem.. as one side has oil and the other side gas... I suspect it could get rather "smoky" if you are pushing oil
through the diaphragm. I remember my 720 got lots of oil slobber from that old pony. I'd start with the diaphragm and go from there.. valve guides, rings, etc.. if
it has good enough power the turn the big engine over, I wouldn't suspect rings. Are all the cylinders firing? easy to miss at the RPMs the engine runs at...

Before ripping everything apart. Make certain the oil drain hole from the valve train back through the heads and back through the block are clear.
Run straight 50wt starting engine oil.
Ensure a clean air filter and crankcase ventilation on the starting engine are clear.
The billowing clouds of smoke are part of the starting engine's charm.

I appreciate you guys input, thanks. Everybody always says, these things all smoke. I can overlook that if they all do it, but the throwing oil all over the other motor has to go. The fuel tank does have a shut off on it to keep carb from putting gas into the oil, but when I smelled it's oil, it smelled gassy. Therefore, that was my decision to change it. The little fellow runs so good, it will start the big motor in the starting position. That's why I have not seen this magnitude of the problem until now, because the prior big engine starts were done at a lower RPM. I was lettin her rev aliitle to warm up for the oil change.

1) I was planning to add a straight wt. oil but only 30w. Doesn't 50w seem a little thick for any winter starting?
2) I should tell you, the tractor is a restoration project and will be rarely started in the winter anyway. However, the oil throwing becomes a bigger issue on a prefect paint job.
3) I do have a repair manual on the way currently, should show any day.
4) QUESTION: are there some seals that are worn out and can be replaced at the exhaust connections where it is slubbering oil out too. Parts manual doesn't show any.
5) QUESTION: what are is the RPM ranges for the two setting. I will see if I can get a reading with an electronic tach to make sure, it's not just over rev ing.
6) I also thought I better check the pony muffler for clogged causing excessive backpressure.
7) I am going to drill a hole thru that dumb pony oil drain plug on the lathe and tap the end for 1/8" NPT so I can attach a length of pipe and valve so you don't have to drain oil all over the top of the big motor too.
Thanks again, I'll let you know what I find.

(quoted from post at 11:54:00 10/10/15)
7) I am going to drill a hole thru that dumb pony oil drain plug on the lathe and tap the end for 1/8" NPT so I can attach a length of pipe and valve so you don't have to drain oil all over the top of the big motor too.

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Best you get your manual and read it before you start boogering up perfectly good parts.
The drain plug was never intended to be removed from the pony to drain the oil. :shock:

(quoted from post at 08:54:00 10/10/15)
17) I am going to drill a hole thru that dumb pony oil drain plug on the lathe and tap the end for 1/8" NPT so I can attach a length of pipe and valve so you don't have to drain oil all over the top of the big motor too.

Click to expand...

Well, you could do that, but I'll bet the drain plug is already a pipe thread of some size.

Why would you yank the oil plug out of the starting engine to drain it. That ain't how it works.

(quoted from post at 19:37:09 10/10/15)
Why would you yank the oil plug out of the starting engine to drain it. That ain't how it works.

Click to expand...

You are correct ole tractor guru, I was confused to how the oil did drain into the big engine until I went back out to refill the pony and studied the situation closer. However, I still think it would be handy to be able to drain the oil from the motor without contaminating the diesel's 10w30 sd oil with to straight wt 30-40w I think that I may want to change to cranking engine oil more frequently because of it short run cycles, and small quantity of oil.
The drain plug has a 1/2" UNF thread. If I hollow core the plug and tap with 1/8" NPT I could still use it both way?

It did seem to smoke less with the new straight wt oil, but still blowing out the connection. I still didn't pull the muffler off to to check for restrictions and what type for seals are used.