Need help wiring this

Hey guys!

So, I've Stretch'd this tractor and installed the powertrane from a 1981 Chebby Have Ton, and now I just need to figure out how to wire this thing up. The engine is a 305, and I'd prefer the finished thing to have lights on it, two headlights, one rear, and a set of fender mounted flashers ideally. My electrical skills end with changing light bulbs and running extension cords.

Who can help me with this?

Also, what is that thing on the downpipe and do I need it? And all those wires coming out of the sparky turney thing, do I need those for anything? Oh, and do I need to wire anything for the transmission? I hope not... Its an automatic...

I'm really just looking for a diagram of how to run the starter, sparky thing, alternator, and lights... And whatever else I'm forgetting...

Are your channel iron frame rails going to be stout enough? I always enjoy your posts, Lanse.

Garry

That thing on the downpipe is a vacuum operated heat riser if I am not mistaken. It is used to force hot exhaust through the passage in the intake manifold under the carburetor to warm the mixture on a cold engine for faster warm up.
You also need some wiring harness and support circuitry to use that distributor (the sparky thingy).
As to the transmission, if that is a 700R4, I would replace it with a THM350. The 700R4 was nothing but trouble. When they worked, they were fine, but keeping them working was a problem - they were less than reliable.

Why the 305?. Certainly one of the WORST engines ever built by GM

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/escrepl.htm

Copy and paste this is what I do...

Disconnect the 4 wire connector at the distributor, jump the pins on the DISTRIBUTOR SIDE connector, pins labeled A and C.
This bypasses the spark control computer.

Then For the distributor to make fire all you will need a a 12V switched wire to the bat terminal on the dist. cap...

Its as simple as it gets 8)

Have you confused the 305 with the 307....I've seen MANY 305 engines that you couldn't wear out. They weren't a performance engine, but they were not intended to be.

I hope you dont get hurt on that. Looks like if you lay the gas to that thing its really gonna hurt your feelings when that channel twist up.Looks cool though just be safe. Cant wait to see a finished project.

700 were a pretty good tranny---its the early 200R4 that were trouble. For an even better one, drop in a TH400. Can't break 'em.

Ben

>channel twists up

>4" heavy wall channe
>Fish plated 6 ways from sunday
>With 3 crossmembers

>And a 305 engine
>As I putt around a tractor show
>lol

BRILLIANT!

Now I just have to figure out the starter, alternator, and lights!

I also would comment on the frame channels. on an H or M, the torque reaction of the engine is controlled by being attached to the casting of the clutch housing. Your engine is not. I believe the rails will twist. I see no easy or hidden way to transfer this torque to the rear castings except by over building the frame, or making a torque absorbing link between the trans case and the casting. (probably the best and least visible) Jim

Came with the truck! Its still like a 300% increase in factory farmall H power

This is a turbo 400, so I'm told

Thanks man! I'll try and retain that thing then...

Haha, its funny you asked this, I started this post while I was taking a break from working on the thing, and the moment I went back outside I started
fishplating everything and adding an extra crossmember as well!

transmission should be a turbo350 just need a vacuum hose from intake manifold to the modulator on the transmission so it shifts..don't use a turbo 400 as they use 35 more hp to run and you don't have enough hp with a 305 to warrant the use of one..i would also find a one wire hei distributor {sparky thing} as then all you need is a full 12 volt supply to one wire..should be easy to find and cheap..look for a small block chevy earlier than 1980 and they should have that..305..350..400...all are the same dist and don't forget the venturi vacuum hose to the dist from carb for your timing advance... 18436572 is the firing order and should also be stamped on the stock intake...heads were the big restrictions on the 305..they have the same crank as a 350...3.48 stroke but small cyl bores and small intake runners..350 heads will bolt on but you cant run over a 1.94 intake valve as anything bigger requires notching of the cyl bore itself..not worth the time..remove the exaust dampner as you don't need it for your application and it only restricts things..hope some of this helps

305 was a solid engine.

I agree with the others on the reinforcements to the frame to prevent twist. You'd be surprised how much even a piece of steel, like that channel, that you'd never think would do so, will twist when hit with enough torque. It looks like you've already started on that, so I'll leave that to you.

As far as the wiring, that's the easy part. Depending on the distributor you use, you need power there. I think Hobo has that pretty well covered for what you've got right now. That particular wire will run back to the ignition (I) post on the key switch. This post will provide power to the ignition system when the engine is running, and turn it off when the key is turned off.

On the lights, no more than your going to run, they can run through a light switch without needing any relays. Basically you'll have the hot wire run to the key switch, where it will attach to the ignition (I) post. From there run it to the common post on the light switch. Now if you want to be able to keep the lights on without the key switch being on, you can run the wire straight to the light switch without going through the key switch if you want. From the light switch, simply run your wires to the lights. Many lights will either be grounded when you bolt them down, or have an external ground wire. In either case, just insure the light is grounded, and it should work when you flip the light switch.

The blinkers are wired basically the same, except that you need to put a blinker/flasher in line going to them to interrupt the current and make them blink.

Beyond that the best suggestion I can give would be to do a search for wiring, etc, and look at the diagrams. I just searched and there are hundreds of diagrams that will give you an actual, visual, representation of what you might need in your specific situation better than I can describe it.

Good luck, it looks like it will be a really cool machine when you get done.

With the trans in the mix, it will produce gear tooth destructive torque. Do not load the rear axle and tires to make it 'hook up' it will then it will break. Jim

Trans looks like a 350 are 350C by the looks of the governor...
The mounting of the transfer case looks to have been rolled to the right it may be OK dunno...

I would add a safety neutral to the starting system they will fire up and run your arse over...

(quoted from post at 19:19:57 09/28/15) Came with the truck! Its still like a 300% increase in factory farmall H power

Click to expand...

Lanse, do some more research and homework. That 305 will only make the rated horsepower at about 5,500 RPMs, or maybe higher. If you rev that motor that high, the old H will be traveling at about 60 mph. I hope no one else is around when you do that.

To keep everything at a safe speed, that 305 cannot be revved much over 1,800 RPMs, and at those RPMs, the horsepower produced will be closer to about 40.

Im cool with this Thanks!

Only issues I had with any of the 305 powered vehicles were the choke setup being fussy and soft cams. Changed 3 or 4 of them when they hit about 120,000 kms, or 75,000 miles. Make sure your hoses are all routed where needed and you should be good to go. I see you're going to have the only air-conditioned H at the track.... haha. Good luck

I'm for the neutral safety switch too. Safety first.

(quoted from post at 08:40:08 09/29/15)

(quoted from post at 19:19:57 09/28/15) Came with the truck! Its still like a 300% increase in factory farmall H power

Click to expand...

Lanse, do some more research and homework. That 305 will only make the rated horsepower at about 5,500 RPMs, or maybe higher. If you rev that motor that high, the old H will be traveling at about 60 mph. I hope no one else is around when you do that.

To keep everything at a safe speed, that 305 cannot be revved much over 1,800 RPMs, and at those RPMs, the horsepower produced will be closer to about 40.

Click to expand...

There is still a TH350 before the H trans, as long as the TH350 isn't in 3rd and the H in a higher gear too the RPM vs ground speed shouldn't be an issue. The power assumption is probably correct considering age and wear, that engine on its best day probably made around 150hp-240lb/ft (4000-4200RPM). at any RPM it should be a significant increase over what its replacing though.

lol

The 400 turbo trans pan is about 3 to 3 1/2 inches deep the 350 trans pan is noticeable difference not as deep. Just FYI

Can you give the transfer case model #... It should be on a tag on the center back side case...

Most use a oil pump the pick up is on the bottom left hand corner looks like you are going to starve it for oil.... I guess you could overfill it :idea:

(quoted from post at 07:45:40 09/29/15)

(quoted from post at 08:40:08 09/29/15)

(quoted from post at 19:19:57 09/28/15) Came with the truck! Its still like a 300% increase in factory farmall H power

Click to expand...

Lanse, do some more research and homework. That 305 will only make the rated horsepower at about 5,500 RPMs, or maybe higher. If you rev that motor that high, the old H will be traveling at about 60 mph. I hope no one else is around when you do that.

To keep everything at a safe speed, that 305 cannot be revved much over 1,800 RPMs, and at those RPMs, the horsepower produced will be closer to about 40.

Click to expand...

There is still a TH350 before the H trans, as long as the TH350 isn't in 3rd and the H in a higher gear too the RPM vs ground speed shouldn't be an issue. The power assumption is probably correct considering age and wear, that engine on its best day probably made around 150hp-240lb/ft (4000-4200RPM). at any RPM it should be a significant increase over what its replacing though.

Click to expand...

Maybe, but that short-stroked Chevy will not have as much torque as the original, long-stroked engine.