Better to have two, PICS

My way of thinking is it's best to have two of every tool be it hand tools or machinery (like log splitters)which we have built from scratch )with the exception of engines, pump, hydraulic valves, cylinders,axles, tires, oil, steel, these items we had to buy.
Now the problem----.Daughter paid for the 16.5 B&S used.Got the splitter built ,even installed on the tank, an volt meter so we could see what the charge rate is on the battery(Battery start engine) as my Son is getting tired of pulling the starter rope on the 8 hp.
Daughters wood(13+loggers cord)is cut & blocked and we took the newest splitter down to the pile and started splitting.
Now the unit started spitting Black oil out of the engine.
Son and I had it running (short time)before engaging wood so-yesterday was a tear down and found the head gasket blown through on two places.Today was clean up head & O.H Valve chamber and replaced head gasket, exhaust gasket O.H valve cover gasket, which we made at $6.38 each ( 3) Spares if needed plus one factory one.
Got the engine back together today,runs great with NO OIL
LEAKS!!
Run it 1/2 hr and tomorrow back to the wood pile and if it starts leaking, out comes the 8 hp first picture.(first one built ) and use it . Winter season is FAST aproaching , no time to waste.
Sure like the electric start.Got to keep warm and way to old to hand split lol.
Regards Lou & Son.

Those OHV B&S are good at blowing gaskets. Too much space between the bolts in one place.

14.5-16.5 are well known for having valve trouble. I have seen them break or bend push rods, break rocker arms, and even break valves and then punch holes in the piston or head.

Tractor guy;
I do believe that is due to poor maintains or lack of therof. Our HP splitter has been going now onto 12 years without a hitch. Now as for the 16.5 again, the fault is due to no maintenance ,it is a strong runner whoever owned it pulled the head and re-used the same Head gasket. Was 1/4 " of rust on the magneto,it even started with that.
Sitting out side with out a tarp invites all sorts of problems.
My daughters tractor shows the same scenario. NEGLECT.
Thanks for your reply, LOU & SON

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What teddy said.

never liked the wedge pushed into the wood, if it doesn't split it pulls the wood back with it

And that's what the 2 gussets are for on top of the beam, when the cylinder is retracted and you do get a piece stuck,(I split everything and anything I can, including the gnarliest american elm it rarely happens) the gussets allow the wedge to free up.

The other thing I like about a wedge on the cylinder is that you can align it to the checks in the wood, especially with elm, and other kinds of wood its very helpful in making the splitting easier.

The debate or preference of wedge on beam or cylinder is age old, but this is a very good design, very similar to a Speeco/Huskee. A processor obviously needs the wedge on a beam. However, to make use of what a processor can't handle, one of these will split all the odd ball pieces, crotch wood and similar, every time if you know how to read the wood, I've never gotten anything stuck on mine that could not be pushed off or could not be made into firewood.

The old low rider types, like what Didier made, wedge on beam, there was no means to use the cylinder to push off a stuck piece, they are a real pain, I've split a fair amount on a friends over the years and get a piece of elm stuck on it, you'll work to get it free.

Nice looking unit. I built mine with the wedge on the beam, but wish I had put it on the cylinder. When splitting clear stuff (especially when it's cold), when the pieces give, they fly forward 6'.
I was thinking another possible way to prevent it would be to lean the wedge forward, so it enters the wood gradually
Pete

You did a great job of fabbing. One thing, a lot of folks never "finish" a job, leaving it un painted, it always looks half ax.

(quoted from post at 05:52:59 09/30/15) never liked the wedge pushed into the wood, if it doesn't split it pulls the wood back with it

Click to expand...

The only advantage of "wedge on beam" is that you can use a second piece of wood to finish splitting the the piece that's on the wedge and partially split.That really speeds up the operation.
As for an unsplit piece stuck on the cylinder mounted wedge,the strippers will push it off.
I've had many pieces of elm stuck on a fixed wedge and had to wrap a chain around the push plate and the stuck chunk and retract the cylinder to pull it off.
I have both types of splitter and prefer to use the cylinder mounted wedge type.

(quoted from post at 07:41:06 09/30/15) Nice looking unit. I built mine with the wedge on the beam, but wish I had put it on the cylinder. When splitting clear stuff (especially when it's cold), when the pieces give, they fly forward 6'.
I was thinking another possible way to prevent it would be to lean the wedge forward, so it enters the wood gradually
Pete

Click to expand...

My 20 ton Brave splitter has the wedge angled toward the push plate.This does two things: it starts the wood into the wedge gradually and when a chunk is set on the beam against the wedge the forward angle keeps the wood from rolling off the beam.

(quoted from post at 07:41:06 09/30/15) Nice looking unit. I built mine with the wedge on the beam, but wish I had put it on the cylinder. When splitting clear stuff (especially when it's cold), when the pieces give, they fly forward 6'.
I was thinking another possible way to prevent it would be to lean the wedge forward, so it enters the wood gradually
Pete

Click to expand...

My 20 ton Brave splitter has the wedge angled toward the push plate.This does two things: it starts the wood into the wedge gradually and when a chunk is set on the beam against the wedge the forward angle keeps the wood from rolling off the beam.