1947 Ford Ferguson 35 positive or negative ground?

Hi everyone, as I put in the subject my question is on a 1947 Ford Ferguson 35. I was wondering if anyone knew if it was a positive or negative ground? A friend of mine has a 1951 Ferguson T0-30 that is negative ground and I don't know if mine is negative ground too. I have had it on negative ground for a long time and it always worked. Lately it has started draining the battery though and I don't know if that is because it may have been hooked up wrong. It has always had a slight draw on it somewhere but it would never keep it from starting. My main question is does anyone know if it is positive or negative ground, and it does still have the 6 volt system in it. Thanks so much for your help! :)
 
First off you DO NOT have a 47 Ford Ferguson 35. A 1947 Ford Ferguson would be a 2N. The 35 Number comes from the Harry Ferguson or plain Ferguson tractor built 1n 1 to 1955 - 1956 with the last Ferguson tractor a 1957 model with 1958 and up being Massey Ferguson. And I think the Ferguson TO 30 started in 1952 and before that they were TO 20. And all the Fords up thru 1964 except the diesels were 6 volt positive ground And all The Fergusons were also the 6 volt positive ground, Don't know about the MasseyFerguson 1958 up. Henry Ford built and designed all the ford tractors prior to 1948 but Harry Ferguson designed the hydrolics on all those Fotde. After 1948 both Harry and Henry designed and built their own tractors.
 
Leroy- people have told me before to refer to it as a 2n, but it says down the hood ford ferguson 35, that's why I posted it that way. Thanks for the advice.
 
Somebody has put the rwong stuff on the hood then to try to fool somebody into thinging it was a thousand dollar higher priced tractor than it is. Andthe only thing on the hood was just a small emblem at top of grill, never anything else.
 

<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto27949.jpg"/>

I uploaded a picture of it,I will try to get the serial number too.
 
That is definatly a 2N that was built from late 42 through 47 and the serial number is stamped on a flat spot on left side of block close to oil filter canister. It will be very faint and you might not see it at all because of paint. If the block would have been replaced at some time then it probably will not have anything stamped there as usually when that was done the person doing the work would neglect to stamp it in new block. That tractor was all battleship grey when new. And from the looks of it I would guess that it stears hard with that bent left radious arm shown in the picture. That tells me that at sometime that left wheel was ramed hard into something ibnoveable at speed. And you also have front axle piviot pin problems as to have the axle tilted like that the bushing in center of axle is shot and probably the piviot pin as well. With the axle leaning like that it changes the angle and will make hard steering and couldmake it so if you go over something that would make the axle move up or down it could shear off the lower radiator hose from the radiator. You have a front mount distribuator that is not easy to get too and all Fergusons had side mount as did the Ford 8N's from 50 up. You have 3 speeds forward and no overdrive. Also clutch has to be up for PTO and hydrolics to work. You have the orignal size but replacement 4 x 19" tires on the front. If you had a 35 it would be 6 speeds forward with to gearshifts out of top of tranny and with an overhead valve engine with live hydrolics and possiblt live PTO that your tractor and the TO 30 does not have. The TO 20 & TO 30 are overhead valve engines and 4 speeds forward with the gear shift lever being the starter buton. I own a 44 2N that Dad bought new in May of 44 and also a 41 9N. You still have the orignal under hood air cleaner intake that is hard to clean and probavly well clouged with dirt. Take that apart and clean it all up and tractor will probaly run better. And batery size is group 1 6 volt positive ground as that will make for the spark jumping the correct way across the plugs. I cannot explain that but John T. that posts on here has gone into that on here several times as he is a retired electrical engineer.
 
It came from the factory positive ground.

If properly changed it will work on negative ground.

If it is properly configured for negative ground and has been working ok for some time, negative ground is not the reason for battery discharge.

I would first suspect a problem with generator cutout or voltage regulator. If original wiring also check for bare wires or cracked insulation and corroded connections
 

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