Farmall 706 help

Kyledhenry62 · Sep 16, 2015

I have a farmall 706 and a new holland 850 round baler. The tractor will only make about half a bale then starts getting warm and Boggs down. I've changed air intake filter, made sure cooling system is working, boiled radiator. Does anyone have any ideas as to why the 706 is doing this? It should be more than enough tractor to run this baler. Thanks

old · Sep 16, 2015

Gas or diesel?? May need to flush the entire cooling system since the block could be clogged up badly. Timing could be off which will make one run hot also

caterpillar guy · Sep 16, 2015

Also how fast are you tying to run? Timing as old said along with the block plugged. Those old Ih's had lots of cooling. Is the water pump impeller turning or loose on the shaft? Are the belts in good shape and tight? Take the top and bottom hoses off and run a garden hose in the top and then the bottom and see what comes out.

ss55 · Sep 16, 2015

Do other tractors run the baler just fine?

MN Scott · Sep 16, 2015

If its a gas you need to run 93 octane gasoline to prevent preignition. Also need to make sure you don't have too high heat range spark plugs. If you use champions use D15Y or the equivalent in the brand of your choice.

Kyledhenry62 · Sep 16, 2015

(quoted from post at 17:09:32 09/16/15) I have a farmall 706 and a new holland 850 round baler. The tractor will only make about half a bale then starts getting warm and Boggs down. I've changed air intake filter, made sure cooling system is working, boiled radiator. Does anyone have any ideas as to why the 706 is doing this? It should be more than enough tractor to run this baler. Thanks

It's a gas. Cooling system was gone through everything is as it should be, I got the spark plugs from a case ih dealer so they should be right but I'll double check.

The neihbiors 3020 runs baler just fine

Going to check timing and points tomorrow. Thanks for all the input

petetx · Sep 16, 2015

did you check the thermostst

pete 23 · Sep 16, 2015

Be darn sure to adjust ignition timing with a timing light and engine running at full throttle. If it is a 263 the timing is 22 degrees before top dead center and if it is a 291 set it at 17 btdc. Some original distributors are still 25 degree distributors if previous owner never changed it to a 22 on early 263. Don't concern your self with timing at low idle as it really does not matter, it is the timing at full speed that determines how that engine will work for you.

rhtx55 · Sep 16, 2015

Make sure the main jet on the carb is adjusted out for full power, it may be possible it is running a bit lean at WOT.
Adjust until it blows just a bit of black smoke out the exhaust when quickly moving the throttle from idle to WIDE OPEN a few times.
May even be a slight fuel restriction, sediment in tank, sediment bowl or carb bowl. If you have been running a bit fast on very rough ground, sometimes the float in the carb will bang itself out of adjustment. I believe it is probably a combination of very minor things causing the overheating issue.
Loose or worn fan belt, check the fan "wobble", could be the water pump impeller is worn & not quite circulating enough coolant. Stuck thermostat, dust & dirt clogging radiator core, air trapped in cooling system, collapsed radiator hose.

Donald in MN · Sep 16, 2015

when we use to have pull type combines the chaff use to build up between the oil cooler and radiator we use to have a
small rod to clean it out. dads 706 is a diesel and has a 6 blade fan . grandpas 560 diesel use to have heating
problems until he put in a 6 blade fan you could try that. the hubs are the same so it should bolt in with no changes.
i put marvel mystery oil in my gas tractors i think it helps with vapor lock and upper cylinder lubercation

Cory Schmidt · Sep 16, 2015

Have a 706 here I can think of a couple reasons

Bad/dirty fuel, manifold(s) (itself or gaskets) leaking, valves adjusted right

Does choking help any or does it die altogether(can't restart till cools down)? likely fuel (been there; Got some fuel in, got tractor hot, spit sputter died(no restart till cool) tried different fuel no problems)

Any cracks in manifolds(intake or exhaust) or gaskets for them? vacuum leak- the cracks expand some when warm, let in air where not suppose to(again had this problem; Found a crack when adjusting something else(been missing when warm), put washer across the broken tab on manifold, worked for a time(still waiting on new manifold))

Hope it helps, if I'm off someone will correct me

Steve@Advance · Sep 16, 2015

So is it actually getting "hot", as in boiling out the overflow?

Or is this a problem that arises as it comes up to temp under load?

If it's actually getting hot, as in too hot to run, that is some serious overheating! If it's been run so
hot it looses power, chances are there is a head gasket problem, possibly other problems with the engine
and cooling system.

But if it's just having a problem under load, that could be fuel related or ignition. Need to catch it when
the problem occurs. Try partial choking, see if that helps. If so, there is a fuel problem. Could be the
main jet needs adjusting richer, fuel restriction, vapor lock (fuel line too close to exhaust), vacuum
leak.

Ignition problems could be points out of adjustment, worn distributor, spark advance not working, weak
coil, wrong coil/resistor combo, weak condenser, timing too fast (spark knock and detonation), retarded
ignition (loss of power, overheated exhaust causing vapor lock).

Might also check the valve lash. If they are too tight, the heat will cause loss of compression and power.

JDIH · Sep 16, 2015

That's plenty of tractor for that baler. In addition to what the others have suggested, check the heat riser.

Kyledhenry62 · Sep 17, 2015

(quoted from post at 17:09:32 09/16/15) I have a farmall 706 and a new holland 850 round baler. The tractor will only make about half a bale then starts getting warm and Boggs down. I've changed air intake filter, made sure cooling system is working, boiled radiator. Does anyone have any ideas as to why the 706 is doing this? It should be more than enough tractor to run this baler. Thanks

It's never got so hot that it boiled it runs the square baler and mower conditioner just fine ( I know they don't pull as hard)

When I go from idle to Pto speed quickly it sputters for a few seconds so I think I'll check carb and points Once again thanks for all the suggestions

ss55 · Sep 17, 2015

A stumble on sudden acceleration could be from a lean fuel mixture.

Ozlander · Sep 17, 2015

Sounds like a coil getting hot causing weak spark.

Farmall 706 help

Kyledhenry62

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old

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