Need source for quality ignition parts

Seneca

New User
Good day<
Need source for quality ignition parts --especially the condenser for my TO35 Ferguson.
Are brass contact distributer caps available?
 
If your Fergy has a Delco distibutor then YT has them listed as part number 1750411M91. I do not know if they have brass contacts. You will have to call them. This is the same cap that fits my Farmall Super C with a Delco distributor. I stumbled on mine, saw it in a blister pack where I could see the contacts. The packager was A&amp;--. YT carries Tisco parts and they carry one, but again I don't knw it its brass.
 
It has been years since I have replaced a condenser due to the fact so many now days are bad and they almost never go bad. I buy most of my parts at an O'Reilly's auto parts store but they are about all there is in the town I live close to
 
I agree there is a need for quality ignition parts for old tractors and cars. I went to four different places last year to find a decent looking set of points. Like others have said, if condenser is still, good, use it. Deere dealer had two different crappy set of points, Big A , (or what ever it is now) had a terrible looking set, Echlin at NAPA would have got me by but I did find a nice looking set at the Agco dealer. Problem is, next time I went to Agco, new stock was same crap as at Deere.
 
We used Chevrolet points in the Delco distributor on the 335 MM tractor. I wonder if a person could find parts that were made in Japan; if you can they would be better than the Chinese products. Might check to see if anyone is handling electrical parts made in Japan.
 
I have a box of NOS Atlas point sets, not sure what they would fit. Know some are for dual point auto/truck distributors, could be none are for tractors with Autolite or Delco applications. Anyone have a cross reference book that would help? Must be at least 100+ sets in the box starting with part #102. Never heard of the Atlas brand, MF dealer where I worked used Standard Blue Point back then.
 
I hate to disturb those who are purist, But I found the best way to prolong the life of ignition parts is to add an electronic ignition. I know this is not exactly what you wanted, but its all I can help with.

They don't have to be totally electronic. The ones I use are point triggered. The points carry far less current than with a regular point, condenser, coil set up. I salvaged some from recycling yards and some are available on line and are also available from YT.

My first electronic ignitions were all CD types, Archer, Delta, Tiger.

When theses were no longer available I switched to hybrid units from 70s Toyotas. Some Datsun, Nissans used them. It is my understanding that the Chryslyer- Dodge units from this era will also trigger from points and don't need a reluctor. They are the ones that hang on the firewall and have the top of a large transistor sticking out (I just read this, and I don't really know they will work).
Two things I know for sure from experience.
1. The CD units I put on cars made the points last a long time.
I put one on my sisters Datsun 210 lasted 70,000 miles and
What finally failed was the point flat spring which broke from
fatigue. (it happened on the interstate, but luckily a knowledgeable good samaritan found the new set I had left in the glove compartment and put them in.

2. When I put a hybrid set in a Super C and had to hand crank it the engine practically started itself. The starter ring gear and pinion were worn.
I also make sure to use a moly high temp grease on the distributor lobes.
I don't know the best source of american or japanese ignition parts if they are still available.
 
(quoted from post at 01:24:31 09/07/15) I hate to disturb those who are purist, But I found the best way to prolong the life of ignition parts is to add an electronic ignition. I know this is not exactly what you wanted, but its all I can help with.

They don't have to be totally electronic. The ones I use are point triggered. The points carry far less current than with a regular point, condenser, coil set up. I salvaged some from recycling yards and some are available on line and are also available from YT.

My first electronic ignitions were all CD types, Archer, Delta, Tiger.

When theses were no longer available I switched to hybrid units from 70s Toyotas. Some Datsun, Nissans used them. It is my understanding that the Chryslyer- Dodge units from this era will also trigger from points and don't need a reluctor. They are the ones that hang on the firewall and have the top of a large transistor sticking out (I just read this, and I don't really know they will work).
Two things I know for sure from experience.
1. The CD units I put on cars made the points last a long time.
I put one on my sisters Datsun 210 lasted 70,000 miles and
What finally failed was the point flat spring which broke from
fatigue. (it happened on the interstate, but luckily a knowledgable good samaritan found the new set I had left in the glove compartment and put them it.

2. When I put a hybrid set in a Super C and had to hand crank it the engine practically started itself. The starter ring gear and pinion were worn.
I also make sure to use a moly high temp grease on the distributor lobes.
I don't know the best source of american or japanese ignition parts if they are still available.

A Chrysler module is dirt cheap the wiring is simple it even uses a resistor and diagnosing it is as EZ as it gets... If I get the time I may give it a try 8)
 

NAPA:Echlin,specify quality parts.
CAR QUEST and probably others:American Standard/Blue Streak.
Voltage regulators also.
High quality parts but pricey too!
 
I just got a set of points for a 9n ford at Family Farm and Home and was suprised they were made in Canada. Brand was Hershel. Chinese ones didn't last very long. I was wondering why the tractor was giving me grief.
 
Hobo,NC
Regarding the Chrysler ignition modules. I read that they trigger on the points closing so you have to use a timing light to set the distributor position.

p.s. There are also a lot of schematics using heat-sinked GM HEI units. Again using the points to trigger or I guess you can use a YT sourced trigger. Anyway a lot of these will fire when the points have a little corrosion on them where a normal set up will not because they don't rely on the charge time constant of the Kettering system.

The problem with the real high energy systems is you need to make sure there is no carbon tracking under the cap and you need to make sure the rotor is contacting the button.
I ran into a situation with a friends Barracuda where either the cap was too tall or the rotor was too short. You also need to make sure the contact on the ignition rotor arm comes close to the contacts on the cap. Manufacturing mistakes do occur. I have seen them or the wrong rotor gets put in the box.
 

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