Clutch releace bearing on Farmall Cub

Has any one changed the Graphite clutch release brg. over to the automotive bearing style.

Did you have any problems with the bearing style

Does anyone know what the finger height should be on the pres. plate, the clutch disk is new

Farmall Cub 1947

Alli have ever heard is dont do it

A new graphite one will outlast you. Rebuilt a cub many years ago and just used the old one.
Richard in NW SC

If possible, reuse your original. The new aftermarket graphite bearings are not well made, and may not last, although they last longer if you soak it in oil for a couple of days before installation. The new roller bearing style are better than they used to be. I would use a new roller style before I used a new graphite style.

I replaced the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing in my cub last spring. The old TO bearing was not reusable. I went with a roller style bearing from this site. It's about the best you can get. Very well made, and absolutely no problems so far.

If your TOB is in PERFECT alignment with the clutch fingers, then you will be fine. Since a Cub TOB swings in an arc, and not centered on the clutch fingers sliding straight in and out like a truck or car, it's almost impossible to get one in PERFECT alignment. When the clutch fingers aren't perfectly centered on the TOB face (think two washers stacked on top of each other then bump the top one a little to the side so it's not even with the bottom one), the clutch fingers will scuff back and forth (closer to the center on one side, farther away 180 degrees around, and then back to closer to center at beginning). This metal on metal scuffing up to 1800 RPM tends to build up some heat that will boil the grease out of the TOB and/or torch away the finger ends. The graphite, properly oiled and kept oiled with cheap grease so the oil leaches out into the graphite, allows the fingers to slide in their own circle on the face of the graphite. The graphite doesn't turn it just lets the fingers slide.

The secrets to longevity of the graphite is properly adjusted clutch fingers, properly oiled graphite, and not spending any longer than absolutely necessary with the clutch depressed. Don't hold the clutch down while you talk to the neighbor, put it in neutral and get your foot off the clutch.

I own a 1963 with a Wagner loader that gets a lot of use. I had real problems with the clutch to the point that I was just going to get rid of the tractor. Here is what I did to fix the clutch issues. First, I used a IH factory clutch pressure plate. I used a automotive style throw out bearing. What is critical is not trusting the setting of the fingers of the new pressure plate. I used a measuring tool that was very accurate and carefully measured the height of the fingers once the pressure plate was installed on the flywheel. In my opinion, the automotive style of throw out bearing works much better than the graphite.